psi

I am a little confused by the above statement! I put a turbo on an NA RB30 that had a genuine 288 000 km on it. I tried very hard to kill it, with the stock NA computer and stock auto and stock everything else the stupid thing made 175 rwp! My wife crashed it with just over 350 000 on it, and i sold it to a bloke who cained it even harder than i ever did for about a year before he wrote off his car, he pulled the head off for inspection and it still had stock pistons and nissan head gasget... he then sold the engine.. and it got cained again.. No body had rebuilt it.. so my question is this, I cant seem to remember ever seeing a really heavy oil brething RB30, what the heck do they screw up in them to do that to them? My father in law raced RB30's for about 7 years, and most of his 'better' engines were near on stock bottom ends! I actually lent him the turbo engine minus the turbo to finish the last race of the season after he had an oil pump fail. So surely there are some smart guys out there that can bang a good RB30 bottem end together and mate it to an RB25 head without too much bother at all. Cos I know our family has got the skills there to do it! I have read that lots of others on this forum who have done the same. Some have not even bothered with a basic re-ring or bearing check. The humble old RB30 is a VERY strong unit. All i know is, if i ever push my RB25 to hard and it lets go, I have a good RB30 in my shed waiting, umm I mean BEGGING for a transplant. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yn-t104332.html have a gwk in here!

Be very clear of what u are really wanting and wanting to acheive! A mate of mine has spent BIG $$$$ changing the sound of his car, he is on his 4th set of mufflers and 2nd lot of pipes! and he is still going on about it.. ask LOTS of questions, check out the shops work before u start the process. if your only after hight, then do the above stuff, if bling, go for it. But in either case get it DB'ed after its done. If you want to keep it legal, I'm sure the shop is more than willing to help if you tell them BEFORE they start the job. If you dont care what it reads, get it done just for laughs! Most shops dont charge u to test it..

SK is the man on this kinda stuff! Listen to him.. Leave the intake alone!

Way back in the dark ages.. hot rodding boys used to use a cut-out valve. looks like a 'Y' junction in the exhaust, sounds all normal until you pull what looks like a choke lever. then all the gas goes on the floor. I have seen a silvia use one on the WG! saves u getting under the car all the time! lol

I use 304 for 2 reasons, 1 is cost, 2 is for availability of the material and bends, flanges. I can often buy ALL the bends and straight right off the shelf! Cracking is usually tracked back to thermal stress. Often where 2 pipes meet and they are running at different temps and/or lengths. Like dump pipe and waste-gate join. Make sure you add a flexi-pipe! If in doubt, check out any decent GTR front pipes! I wrapped my pipe until it had left the engine bay.. Help ya any?

It appears that everybody is all paid up for Bundy day! sorry.. Anyhow, I 'may' be able to slot you into a Gympie crew skid day. It looks like one of the regulars needs to pull out... I'll PM you!

The skid days are held on a skid pan at RoadCraft in Gympie. Thats 2ish Hours north of Brizzy. These dates r left! 14 June - Bundy Crew This is almost booked out! 12 July - Gympie Crew This Date is booked out! 13 Sept - SAU PM 'Peer' 11 Oct - Gympie Crew This Date is booked out! Everybody is welcome to attend the Gympie Crew's skid days. Contact [email protected] for bookings. The SAU days will be organised by Peer and as usual you will need to be a paid SAU member. Contact Peer for details and bookings. The Bundy Crew skid days are being organised by my mate Lars.(Nissan-R33) There will be cars from Bundy, Hearvey Bay and Maryborough. $120 per car. As normal for my skid days, your entry fee entitles you and one freind to free tuition, BBQ lunch and free soft drinks all day! The skid day is 8am-4pm. lunch is eaten on the run between goes. Tuition is built into the day as part of the day. Our tuitor is a qualified driving instructor. One on one tuition is available to anybody who asks at no extra cost, in or out of your car! Feel free to ask any questions. Feel free to ask other guys who have been skidding for their opinion..! I have marked all my previous skid day posts with the blue question mark. I did this so it is easy to track.. check them out! Any other Q's?

This is a very tidy skyline.. I can vouch for that! Shame to see you selling it Tim.

Think i should change this threads name! narr.. even better, print it out and tape it to the windscreen of idiots who 'think' they can drive.. then they can tick off all of the crap we have mentioned that they do.. But, I guess they would be tooooooo stupid to get it! Insted of a parking meter man.. We will have a driving man, goes round with the list of crap not to do and book their sorry buts! And I dont care if they book me for not letting people into a traffic jam. They can still get stuffed, If I have to wait 30min, they dont get a free pass infront of me cos they just turned into the mess...

How about when (mainly chicks) go down a narrow street in their echo or festies and move about 3M to the right of a parked car to avoid hitting it.. man, I can and do drive heavy vehicles though gaps that big.. Use your damn mirrors! The smaller the car, the bigger the gap they use. ever noticed a truck or bus will give you.. maybe 5cm of clearance, but a snot box will take the width of that truck/bus and then add 1m! Then they glare at you for making them use some of that massive gap.. what the? or 4wd owners (like prado's) that have never ever seen any kinda dirt, but are fitted with bull bars, spot lights and winches and tow bars and mud flaps and.. and.. and.. and none of them have ANY paint missing. Then they try and force you out of a lane cos they think that their over budget family mover has right of way.. and just because.. no reasons.. just because! Get a small car moron! You dont need it, I bet you cant even use it! Do u even know how to put it into 4wd?

Aaargghh, I cant find my book,. Its on old pump book from 1950ish by a german author. it covers fluids, solids and air. anyhow, I did find some scribbles that I made, they were in my 'Maxium boost' book,and He makes reference to cooler pipes, but its only a quick skim over it. He doesn't make much hooharr about it.. perhaps there is a point to that! Perhaps it just isn't that critical like i thought.. The german dude was saying that the difference between a 2.5" and 3" pipe made minimal gain unless all components flowed well with a very low pressure drop. Bends, cooler and throttle! The scribles that i got on my paper make reference to a 2" pipe good for 550ish cranck HP and 3" good for 900ish. both with very little prssure drop. Which is exactly what Geoff said! On ya mate!

Kent your payment went through.. Grants computer had issues, couldn't check for a week, all fixed now! Beau, If your still interested, 3 guys have till 5pm this Friday to match payment with their word. If not, I will have 2 spare spots! Lars already has a guy on the reserve list! Lars will pm u if you are interested.. Porsche is out, SS commodore is in! and an old Vette and some other old or odd stuff! Fiat is in, and so is an Alfa!

U bugger, I could have given you some happy birthday wet fish slaps the other day when i was up there! U keep toooo many secrets! Dinner was nice! I got 1.5 hours sleep! hahaha thanks mate!

Yep there sure is alot of retards driving cars in our sunny state. so we must be up to at least tip 35 by now.. So, 36 That funny stalky thing is NOT an extra. Its called an indicator! Use it! 37 Turn ur mobile fone off! I have lost count of how many cars i've seen change lane while on their fone! 38 Natural Lore states, Get away from bigger things.. they WILL hurt u! 39 You want to drive at 90, or even 80kp/h FINE! But so help me if you speed up at a passing lane I'm gonna give u a luv nudge! OK! 40 If i don't give you a luv nudge.. Lucky u, I'm gonna get beside you and not let u in! Simple.. u A-hole! 41 Like said, 'Lane ends' means merge now, NOT in 650m! I move onto the line to push people out of this terrable habbit! 42 Road blocks suck, So don't think I'm gonna give u even 2cm to shove in if you just turned in from a side street, u can wait like EVERYBODY else, If you've been there awhile, I 'mite' let u in. Otherwise.. sod off! (as the poms say!) 43 If you drive a winnabeigo, I'm gonna hit pot-holes on purpose and shower u in stones! if you havn't jacked me off yet, your mates did! 44 If the council have a 40 sign up, do it! if they are not there (like nearly always) dob the lazy buggers in! 45 Smile and wave when u screw up! others usually get a good laugh! if they laugh, they wont throw stones at you! 46 Right lane is fast lane.. OK! if i hi beam u, brace your self, I'm coming through! U dont like my rules? STAY AWAY! urr, I mean STAY AWAKE!

yep. Geoff got it right. He said what I was tring to say(he is a massive bunch smarter with this). It just goes to show that with some strong understanding of what happens, well it does wonders... My book has a whole page of numbers and fomula's to get to a base point which needs to then be understood.. The problem is that you cannot get all the correct info to produce the 'most' correct answer. Because the engine revs across such a wide range, the perfect size pipe is at best a bad compromise. and because a car ran XXX hp with a set-up doesn't mean it cant be better, or be chocking, or be right on the money. thanks Geoff!

twin pipes weigh more! 2x cats (but they will be cheap due to small bore), 2x the mufflers/resonators. they will also loose more heat dure to more surface area, the hotter the gas, the better the flow(kinda like oil, flows better hot). But problems are just that, so it is do-able. Twin 2.25" pipes will take up some room, you will have to stagger the cats so you can fit it all in. You will also have to look at some really good flex pipe, or you will suffer cracks. The 2 pipes should flow more, but i think that will be determined by the quality of the collectors. if you can seperate the gas smoothly and then join it again in the same way, you have a good chance. my thoughts..

I have a mate that works in the Gas industry.. He swares the injectors are the way of the future. That said, he has only fitted a few because of their price! Has was also concerned about getting good HP for good $$$. I have another idea, what does the whole kit weigh? tanks and converters and crap? sure it may be cheaper to run, but unless it is a very well implimented system, you are gonna battle with it, and then resale? worth the savings? Butchered car otherwise..

I was cut off by an idiot in an R33 recently, it sparked a responce from me. !0 great driving tips! 1: Dont play chicken with a bus! You weigh just over 1 tonn, we weigh over 20, you and your car WILL loose. 2: Not all buses are slow! 3: Dont tail gate. Its stupid and dangerous. I ran over a roo near Gladstone and spattered it all over a suzuki that was tail gating me. lol 4: If you cant see a drivers mirrors (truck, bus, car, 4WD or bike), they cant see you. Dont drive in their blind spots! 5: Turn on your freaking lights on dark or stormy days. If you dont see them, maybe they will see u. 6: Keep a safe distance. This is your saftey zone. you need a 3 second gap between you and the vehicle in front. 7: If you want to drive at 90km/h, thats fine, but dont speed up on overtaking lanes. 8: Dont EVER buy or drive a campervan, caravan or winnabeigo! 9: People die from road rage, so get away from bad situations, dont agrovate others. 10: If a bus or truck wave you through an intersection, they probably need the space to get into a tight spot. Get out of the way! Now that you have read this, I am sure that you will need to add a few of your own. Please keep them relative to the topic..

I'm with Geoff! I dont have a hybrid yet, but thats what i'm working on! u want a 3L, go fo it. there are plenty of threads with heaps of info on this forum..

good on ya! got a sealed wet battery. Not totally what i wanted, but it will do. It bolted straight in! 3 of the dry cells i was offered had different posts, the other 2 were way to dear.. She starts first hit! Yeeeeeeeeharr! ohh, now she has some real power.. the fuel pump is whinning! good thing I'm putting a new one in! it never rains, it pours!

My Brother in law runs our family suspension shop.. I you get no love down there, come up here to Gympie! He is very expereinced with imports! Camber, castor and coil over kits are what he plays with!

yea i tried local.. morons didn't even know what an R33 was! then he tried to sell my a gel cell for a golf buggy! spankers! I sware they don't want to make $$$$$

Caution.. this may require some thinking! there is not a real 'correct' size! Like everything, its a compromise. I have a formula somewhere in my books about pipe size. It is all based about airflow though the engine. then u add factors like psi drop across cooler and turbo effeceintcy. ehh? you say.. ok, the bigger pipes will flow more air, small pipes will make boost faster(less pipe size to fill), medium pipes try and make the best of both, some run big sizes to the intercooler and the same size as the throttle as a return.. Then I read an aircon journal about pipe flow restrictions and bends. it said that a manderal bend of a small constant radius (like most cooler pipe bends) has about the same flow restriction as 6m of straight pipe.. hmm. so now we know bends are evil, but needed. Then there is the argument about less dense hot air needing more space, and the argument about denser cooled air flows slower so it is good to have a big pipe to aid the 'thicker' air.. Then you have air speed, small turbo's pump lots of air down low and dont require a large pipe, but require a bigger pipe higher in the revs due to the massive compressor speed needed to make enough boost to feed the engine due to its small size., because of the speed of air needed, carefull consideration is paramount. then big turbos change it all again.. the big pipes will help make big HP, but have a spongy throttle coming onto boost. the compressor spins heaps slower, and pumps air best above 10ish PSI boost. too small a pipe will choke the poor thing! Now that i have opened a huge can of worms.. i'm goin to leave u! In a couple of days, I will try and find my books! i will summerise it and post it up!

This is a great little mod to lower the intake manifold air temp from around 77 degrees to somewhere near 45 degrees in summer, even colder in winter, great for making more throttle responce and horsepower! It bypasses the coolant in the throttle body. You will need to find the throttle heater hose, which is mounted on the bottom of the throttle as part of the throttle. It is added by factory for 2 main reasons. 1: Because the throttle is heated to the same temp all the time, the air going through it is also raised which makes tuning the factory computer so much less complicated, the air is always about the same temp. 2: Due to the raised temp, the situation of thottle 'iceing' is removed. Throttle 'iceing' is where you drive though some moist cold air and the throttle actually gets little ice crystals on it and freezes it in place. When you go to lift off for a corner the throttle wont come back.. VERY SCARY! This sometimes happens in air temps below about 5deg. If this happens and the throttle wont come back, just push the throttle harder to brake the ice seal and then lift off, or turn the engine off.. The mod: built into the bottom of the throttle aspart of the casting is a little tube. you need to bypass this tube... simple! 2 easy ways to do this, 1: remove the 2 hoses from the bottom of the throttle, 1 from the 'do not open' bleed screw on the front of the intake manifold and then the other that goes back down the back of the engine to the firewall.. u will need to use 2 new hose clamps and about 45cm of hose. run the new hose from the bleed screw UNDER the throttle and onto the the back join on the fire wall.. or 2: just cut a peice of metal tube (copper, steel or alloy) a smidge longer than the throttle bodies hose barbs and use the standard hoses. just insert the new metal tube under the throttle and join it all up. NOT FINISHED YET, now u have to get the air out of the system, that is what the 'do not open' screw is for. This screw is the highest point in the engine that the air will get to, so any time u disconnect ANY part of the cooling or heating system, you MUST bleed the air out. you will need a 10mm spanner. Start the cold engine and let it idle. as it warms up, undo the 'do not open' screw a few turns(but not all the way out!). as the engine gets hotter u should see some bubbling come up though the thread, this is good.. u will loose a very small amout of coolant. when the bubbling has stopped, thighten the screw back up. Repeat these steps 2 or 3 more times when u start the cold engine(generally over a week of driving to work or whatever). It is vital ALL the air is removed from the system! This little mod is way less than 1 hour to do even if you take your time and tripple check everything! The end result is an intake manifold that you can actually touch after a long cruise.. this means it goes harder. It looks totally factory, does a great job and gives more thottle feel. Happy cruising!

Like the post says.. At the moment I have a wet acid battery in the boot of my R33, this is very bad. I have found a couple of little acid prevoked rust spots in the boot! Nothing serious, just 3 little cosmetic spots.. But it just goes to show that a much better battery is needed, one that doesn't vent! Now the cooler climate is upon us, and the old battery is slowly dieing, and I need to upgrade it anyway.. Does anybody have contacts or websites where I can find a suitable replacement. I looked in the search and only found some old group buys and not alot else.