jrm

Everything devalues your car. Any modifications you do to your car lowers its value, every km you put on it lowers its value, every day that passes since it's manufacturered lowers it's value. You don't buy a car with the devaluation in mind, or you'd never buy a new car (lowers it's value by 5-10% in an instant). Personally I tend to think anything that makes it less likely for clueless teens with no driving experience going out there with skylines - doing burn-outs, drift, street racing, other anti-social nonsense that brings skylines and imports a bad name is a good thing. Besides, every other state already equivelant rules to these in-place already, so it's basically a catching-up thing with the rest of Australia.

Boring Sunday FTL .. so quiet on SAU

Wow, I use Main North Nissan heaps, and I'm an SAU:SA member - I never knew we got discounts .. d'oh .. I reckon I've spent at least $500 with them in parts for my N14 and R34 in the last 3 months alone too ... I guess this explains why I'd always gotten a great resposne from their mechanics/etc when i brought my R34 down though - always happy to source parts from Japan, and I got them to fix my drivers-side power window and they seemed to know everything and take care of it no problems ..

Wait! GURL!!!%)(&!#% WHAR??!

In other states, people in this situation just get an excemption - why wouldn't it be the same here?

I've tried many things previously on my headlights - anything from brasso, sandpaper, and PlasticX etc - all of them worked, but some had better finishes than others. All of them started going yellow again after 6-9 months though... I just used glassylite on my headlights on Thursday night - easy system - brought them up crystal clear and got rid of the yellowing in my passenger-side R34 lense. The final UV coating you apply is supposed to help with Australian conditions and prevent the yellowing from occuring again. For the price I paid (maybe $35 incl. p&h from their website) I figured it was worth a go - especially given they claim it's got that UV sealant/protectant. Purely on their initial results of making them nice and non-yellow and clear - I would highly recommend it - it works. Only time will tell whether it resolves the yellowing coming back every 6+ months

There's an article in the current (H)PI magazine specifically about LSDs - might be worth picking up and having a read...

IM240 is a 240 second test (hence the name) on a dyno where they run your car on this line on a screen through acceleration & deceleration to test emissions - they were bringing it in in NSW and WA and some other states - but AFAIK they hadn't brought anything like that to SA yet - maybe things have changed? (I didn't think Regency had any facilities like that last time I was forced through a defect check, either..)

I don't think I've ever been to a Woolies/Coles in ADL that has self-serve :S ..

Consider how much of that stuff you're going to have to pay with any car you buy tho. You're always gonna have to pay stamp-duty, insurance, service (though perhaps not a $1350 100,00km service). So that's what - maybe $2K you're probably gonna need to put into any car you buy on top or the purchase price (depending if you need an alarm, how much servicing it needs, what condition it's in, etc)

I have an autowatch alarm in my R34 GTT and it unlocks the central locking when I hit the alarm key fob. Normally, you won't hook it into the factory central locking but instead the installer will add an actuator into the drivers door that moves the arm that unlocks the drivers door - that'll activate the factory central locking and unlock any other doors. Take the car to any alarm specialist who's familiar with autowatch, and I'm sure they'll just add an actuator and wire it in for you (assuming that just an immobiliser has that facility - can't see why not)

If anyone cares, the URL for the law regarding all this is at austlii website. If you can safely argue that you didn't believe it was safe to stop (and if you didn't speed, and they didn't get you for speeding - and others were traveling through it at the same time) - then you've probably got a pretty good case for it being thrown out. Whether you want to bring in the idea of the car being targeted because it's an import, not sure if that would harm or hinder things - perhaps consult with one of those lawyers who give out free advice before taking this to court?

? ... it's completely legal to go through an amber light last I checked - that's the whole point of the amber light? (Only stop for the amber light if it's safe to do so). Red light cameras are - as far as I'm aware - only designed to pick you up if you proceed through the intersection when the light has already turned red. Unless you've been picked up by a police officer for going through the orange light - then it's usually up to their discretion, but only time I've ever seen anyone picked up for that the cop just gave them a warning? (who are they to decide that it would have been safe for you to stop, really - you're the one in control of the vehicle)

I imagine so rich kids can't subvert the rules by parents giving them something awesome, or borrowing their parents car ...

So they can just drive over speedhumps (and small cars) without slowing down? From what I understand, after talking to people who own them - they seem to get a sense of protection and superiority by sitting higher than other cars - that they're invincible. That many of these cars have a much lower safety rating than smaller cars, and that whilst in an accident they might be slightly better off, the other car (or pedestrian they hit) will be far better off doesn't seem to occur to them. Eh, anyway. I'm a huge SUV hater - if you take it off-road, sure - but 90% of them don't. They compromise the visibility for cars around them, and many of the drivers seem to be oblivious to the other cars on the road around them (I don't know if they just don't check their mirrors or their mirrors or they just can't see the other cars from larger blind-spots or something).

Okay, I'm going to be rational and try and explain this nice and clearly, because you don't seem to be listening to anyone. Okay. I personally I think you need to try and eliminate the variables - standard problem solving approach. Take the car back to as standard as you can, factory ECU, remove any boost controllers or boost-t's. Now test the car - if under these conditions, you've resolved the issues - you've identified that one of the things you've removed was causing the problem. You can start adding the parts back in - one at a time - to try and figure out which one it was, and work it from there. Now (if everything is working right) would also probably be a good chance to run it up on the dyno to see what you have as a starting point. If, however, you continue to have problems when you're back to a near-stock condition, you also have information to work from. You now know it's not something you've added which is causing the problems but something more fundamental - whether it's anything from AAC, spark plugs, coils, or any number of things. Certainly, if your mechanic has identified that your O2 sensor and knock sensor are faulting - fix those, but don't expect that to magically resolve your issues. It should be fairly straight forward to identify what the cause is once everything is fairly stock. Problem solving is easy - take things one step at a time and eliminate variables. You'll have this figured out in no time, and you'll be able to start to wind the power up from a solid standing point rather than trying to add modifications to a car that seems to have underlying problems.

Put in a relay... run the signal wire to something inside the car if necessary for an ignition signal - and use it to switch the supply from the battery. Simple & clean. Hell, do it nice and tidy and put the relay inside the fuse box in the engine bay like the others to make it nice and factory-looking.

Wow! .. just wow. Spent the last hour or so applying the 'glassylite' treatment on my R34 headlights. The drivers-side headlight was pretty much okay (no yellowing or discoloration), but passenger-side was starting to yellow again. I'd previously tried using various products on the passenger-side headlight and it would look pretty good for maybe 3-6 months but still eventually start yellowing again. This glassylite product has brought them up way better than the other products - they're amazingly clear now. I'm also hoping the final application - a UV sealant - actually works like they claim, and prevents the yellowing happening again. I guess time will tell whether it actually works, but given what I've seen tonight, I'm stoked. Gawd, I sound like an advertisement. RubyRS4 - this is the product I mentioned I was gonna try on my headlights after seeing yours. I reckon for the price ($35 odd including p&h) it's worth giving it a shot. I got it from their website, but it also often pops up on eBay. Anyways... lol .. I'm gonna shut up now

eh? Lip I'm talking about is on the bottom of the bumper - nothing to do with the bonnet? (no bonnet lip at all in that top picture I can see)

Pretty sure that's a factory-option lip, though you can get them in the aftermarket too... (These lips aren't all that common, but you do still see plenty of 'em)

Most cars speedometers - not just Nissans - will err on the side of over-reading (reading higher than the road-speed). From what I understand, speedometer accuracy is a tricky business for car manufacters. They need to allow for things like: * Tyre wear * Tyre temperature * Variations in factory-released tyre rim sizes in a single model (where all models share the same speedometer and sensor) As soon as you start introducing non-factory components like aftermarket rims & changes in the overall diameter of the wheel (different tyre profiles, widths, etc) you introduce even more variables that may affect your speedometer accuracy. The manufacturer will typically provide a tyre placard which lists acceptable tyre rim/tyre sizes for your car - it's up to the owner to ensure that they keep the rolling diameter as close to this as possible to try and avoid upsetting the speedometer accuracy. (Though there are state-by-state laws regarding how much the rolling diameter can be too). There are regulations under the ADRs regarding speedometer accuracy. These have since changed in - I think - 2006 to be even more stringent, but for most of us it's still under the older rule that it must be accurate within +-10%. From what I recall, the new rules prevent any under-reading, and allow for over-reading of up to 4kph + 10%. Testing against GPS, both of my cars over-read, but even at 100kph it's only 1-2kph out - so I don't stress too much. Anyway, hope that helps

How safe is it to drive to modify your nistune after you fit larger injectors, change the injector setting in the map? Is the map still going to be okay and safe to drive? (daily basis, under load - not just to a tuner) I ask because I have a car with relatively minor mods, and I've recently purchased 480cc nismo injectors & nismo fuel pump (in preperation for 'bigger things') and I'm wondering if I fit these whether it's going to be safe to drive it with only an injector setting change to the nistune. I'm obviously going to get no benefit from it, but it feels a bit dumb just leaving the injectors sitting around until I can afford to take the car to a tuner and get it all done properly ...

Wow .. I learn't on manual, have only owned manual cars - I don't think I've driven an automatic more than maybe 30 minutes in my driving life. I've taught people to drive manual, but I honestly can't even imagine trying to learn to drive manual after mostly only ever having driven auto... good luck with it I think it will only improve your understanding of cars and handling - which I think is what you want to do

I'm 32, and paying Shannons about $1350 for my R34 GTT ($500 excess) with an agreed value of $27K. I've listed the relatively mods for my car (exhaust, braided brake lines, suspension, GTR MFD, stereo), though it didn't seem to increase premiums much. .. I would imagine the new SA system - like other states - is going to have cavaets around the exemptions for people who already own cars before the rules came into place. For the most authoritative answer, give Transport SA a call - they'll know for sure.

Don't suppose you know if this fits an R34?