KerrodR33

Sorry for double post, but no idea how that pic ended up in my post haha embarrassing.

Excuse my ignorance but what is the R terminal? I know of side, top and L terminals but never heard of R? I have started the car and used a multimeter to check voltage at the battery while it is running and can see that it is not charging and that is all I have measured.

So a while back my car died from a weak battery and it turned out that the standard alternator was on the fritz and eventually caught fire. I replaced the battery and bought a brand new Bosch alternator and now it's not charging the battery at all. Everything is connected correctly but I had noticed that the battery light would not come on when turning the ignition on or not come on at all. I removed the dash and checked the bulb to see if it had blown but it hasn't and I also tested it with known working bulbs but the light would still not switch on. Could this be the cause as to why my alternator isn't charging as it is part of the charging circuit? And if it is, how do I fix it? Cheers guys

Yea I would rather not but I think the only other way is to do what Stao suggested, if I don't get it tuned at Pecky's but I have seen some quick V8's come from his stable so I'm sure he is a good tuner

Well when I spoke to them they said they don't do imports That's weird, probably just having a crappy day and felt like being a prick to me. If that's the case then my problem might be sorted.

Stao, if you could PM me your setup so I don't have to sift through 400 pages that would be greatly appreciated, turbo I'm planning on putting on will be a SS2 with IW standard dump pattern. Haven't purchased the parts I need yet for my car so there can be variances in my setup if need be and ill be in Singleton, NSW for the next 3 months for a course so I will have time to organise what I need. Cheers

Pecky's do mail order tune just so you know, And they won't touch my car as Ls1's are there forté.

Yea well I'm running a decat, brand new walbro and new nismo injectors, car will be fully serviced before the tune and I think everything should go smoothly.

Sounds like a plan. I guess that I'll be shooting of some PM's later in the year to organise something then haha. Cheers guys

Yea adaptronic would be my preference but I just assumed seeing as no tuner up here now that the easiest ecu to get tuned would be powerfc. I have a bit of time before I need it tuned so can probably look into it. And I bet if I could find someone to come up here there would be a lot of interest from the other guys here as well who are in the same situation

Car will be running a hypergear turbo and apexi powerfc. All other mods such as injectors and afm will be done. I haven't purchased the ecu yet so that can be changed depending on what would be of benefit. Kinda crappy situation and there is nothing I can do about living in Darwin. Army sorta posted me here indefinitely haha

(mods if this is in the wrong section please move) Hi guys, in a bit of a dilemma. The only tuner up here in Darwin is retiring at the end of this month and my car won't be finished until December. How do you guys recommend getting a tune done? There is other workshops up here with Dynos but they do not do tunes. And sorry for posting a random question such as this haha. Cheers

Dave at Hi Tech tuning is closing down at the end of this month, huge loss to us here in Darwin. All the best to him in the future. Now I need to find another way to get my 33 tuned in January next year lol

Replaced all the fuses and put a new battery in today and the car is fixed drove it for 3hours straight without a hiccup. Thanks guys great help. Never new putting a fmic on would give me this much headache haha and be such a simple problem to fix :S. I think I was thinking to much into it.

$1500 for a high flow stock turbo? Where are you shopping? Check hypergear mate, get a high flow for less than $1000

If that's all it is ill be a happy camper.

I placed the negative on the bolt holding the strut brace in. So I replaced the alternator today with a brand new Bosch unit then jump started it. Worked straight away then I gave it some revs till the battery light disappeared, took it for a drive and it was nice and crisp. Until the engine warmed up and it started to surge. Tried to baby it home but the surging got so bad it was trying to stall in first gear with foot flat to the floor with a lot of jerking. Car stalled on the side of the road and would not start, made the same one click noise and nothing Got it towed home and I have parked it up and trying to forget it exists haha. So any ideas on what the problem could be? Might tackle all the fuses tomorrow. I also noticed that while it was surging like a champ the airbag light was flickering on my dash? Wtf?

Hypergear is your friend for the turbo

Hi guys got myself into mischief today. So the story goes my R33 gtst sat for a month and a half while I went on holidays and then installed a new front mount intercooler. I tried to start it today after finishing of the install but the car wouldn't start. It just made a one solid click noise when I turned the key. I asked my mate to come around and jump it for me assuming the battery had just gone flat. When we tried to jump it nothing happened and the positive terminal on my battery started to glow red! I was like what the hell? so we disconnected the leads and noticed smoke coming from under my bonnet. When I looked under the bonnet I noticed a small flame coming out of the alternator. A cheeky spray of the fire extinguisher and we tried jumping it again and it started, however it was idling crap and kept running out of juice. While it was idling I noticed the battery light was staying on and my audio was not working (suspected I have blown a fuse there while jumping it). So do you guys reckon it would have just been the alternator flogged out (I'm picking up a brand new one tomorrow) or is there something else to look for? Cheers guys! (PS: the alternator was making a quiet grinding noise once started)

What capabilities? An excessively loud, raspy exhaust? No wait it would have to be the awesome single peg it drops with a clutch drop at 5000rpm! lol No offense but I used to own a N/A R33 and it was crap even with all the 'cool' mods done to it. 117rwkw was not great at all. In regards to the question at the start of the thread, YES they are slow. YES you can drift them. But as stated previously you can drift anything but it does not make it fast. Now please get over it and go drive your car if you love it so much. Enjoy it while you are on your P's and when you get off them then later on go ask about why your new gts-t has a rough idle after installing a BOV in the FI thread. Peace out

The noise is definitely not from brakes or wheel bearings as it's making the sound at idle as well. It is more of a schhhhhh sound lol. Sort of like the vaccuum thing at the dentist with a hint of rubbing. That's the best I can describe it haha.

Having troubles with my 1996 gtst. Upon cold start up I can hear a grinding/scraping noise similar to a grinding wheel. The noise can be heard while driving in the low rev range but I can't tell if it still makes the noise at higher rev ranges due to the car being too loud. When disengaging the clutch the noise quietens due to revs dropping. I don't know if it's related but my alternator is squeaking as well. Cheers for any help guys

Just wondering if you have fixed the problem because my r33 started doing the exact same thing today, my little black box was smoking :S

eBay. Always has 400r spoilers

You sure it's not just missfiring at 2500? It could be your coilpacks if it is