STATUS

GREDDY TOMEI new HKS are all fine. the jun ones are pretty cheap too rrp 16000 yen (RRP $175ea) but can be got easily for alot less.

bahaha yeah, but it is now only relevant to me

to start it is impossible for any 26 to have one bar at 2700, to achieve tis one would have to run a crazy dyno ramp load in top gear and even then i reckon it would be near on impossible. Based on your results and measurements (ie use the same dyno) i reckon the best you would get is a couple of 100 rpm for 000's of investment. Im presuming you mean Donnon as your based in SA? or simon as they are the two "guru" over there. Donnon is a killer tuner if you know him and get him on a good day. Simon is also very good and is the only person i ever let touch any of my cars tuning over there. i would not compare road and dyno results either as the two differ extremely (if your not versed on all things dyno read the latest HPI, makes my choice of a purchasing dynapack all the more reassuring ), drive your car and map the boost response vs rpm via a laptop or boost controller (id III and E-01 can do this, im not sure what you use) then compare it to someone elses datalog.

any updates?

yeah the CNC i was looking at locally (the best ive seen OS require no hand finishing) are in SA but im not sure how good their 26 program is, the one above is US based and the bowl is 70cc's and with the pistons im looking at should net the reccomended 9.0:1 comp ratio. flow figures are ~300cfm intake and ~290cfm exhaust @0.400".... pretty damn good although flow is only half a story BUT pricing for the OS guys are as follows im not too worried about the parts more the CNC'ing; CNC Porting is $3100 Clearancing for "big" cams is $210 Replace Guides $250.00 Intake Guides $85.00 Exhaust Guides $95.00 Intake Valves SS (1mm oversized) are $250.00 (i may look at supplying these as i buy much better) Exhaust Valves Inconel (1mm oversized) are $350.00 (i may look at supplying these as i buy much better) Ti Retainers are $395.00 (i may look at supplying these as i buy much better) Springs (dual & nitrided) are $400.00 (i may look at supplying these as i buy much better) Local pricing is about hlaf that for the CNC porting but it may be half the job

I would spend cash on a ecu before anything else.

yeah good for just about nothing and looking in the exhaust side.... it looks well shagged.

OK this may not be an issue with JJR ones (ive never used them) BUT with various aftermarket cam gears i have used over the past year or so i have found MOST are not true to the timing marks.. ie zero is far from being actual zero... in once instance the gears were close to 10 degrees off.... This is a real pain especially if you have a recipe that works and pre set them.... this engine with the real bad gears lost 15rwkw str8 away up top and quite a bit more through the mid, we had to diagnose the problem on a dyno and re set them to get the most from the combo and the money saved from the cheap gears was less than the extra dyno time to find the new optimal gear settings. Best bet is to buy them and expect the worst, and time the engine to make 100% sure your cam timing is where you want it... For me this now means i charge more to install no-name gears as i have to determine accuracy before it leaves the garage.

fark nice work.... have you seen the cnc work done locally? would it compare to this below? if not looks like i may run the gauntlet and ship the head OS

i prefer the 8cm T518z over the disco as its far more responsive but its not really comparing apples with apples the T518Z 10cm is its equiv. I removed the disco and fitted a 8cm to our streeter S13, i tune alot of discos and they are also a killer combo when combined with a nice set of cams... a good example is DAZZA on ns.com his car tuned up great. The Jap S15 T28 is probally the best bolt on turbo value wise... in my oppinion. 210rwkw with S15 injectors, NA S13 cams, ECU and all can be done very cheaply as they are available second hand from various sources.

for starters the speed cut should be disabled.... it is in the settings manual. I will look over you log later today once i pick up my lappy.

Flexible drive agencies. Cheap and located in quite a few SA and vic locations.

Hey BB what is your threshold powerwise for removing them? i have spoken to variuos guys in japan and i get extremely confident answers but in totally opposite directions.... some say that removing both sides is only advisable for drag and over 700hp and another guy says dont do it and to keep the squish within the recommended range. This same guy tells me that the squish area allows for more timing per higher Comp ratio than without.... and he builds pretty nuts 26's.... pm is fine or a link if you done the yards before .

full of it for sure.... ns.com=FTL banned for life cause i posted pics of the mod sucking his own cock....

test is like ten years old and irrelevant, later tests have proved the opposite.... honestley the AIRINX dont filter the best but i havenever had a dusting issue ever... if you are after the best get some DRIFT brand filters... they kick ass over KN and all the jap brands and have been tested lately by both magazines and rival manufacturers.... i know this as there was going to be a lawsuit as drift claimed to flow % more than a big US manufacturer and they did the tests to sue under false advertising/slander.... needless to say the lawsuit kinda died a quiet death

the greddy kit already includes the suction kit... so no point. NOONE... shit sorry bout plug i get another up to you

JAgs.... dont get me started damn multicam corroded mofo's GK on that thing should be good for over 1000hp easy, we supplied a GK on a std (std cams and int) 2jz (595FWKW) and it was safe as houses, ps we did it as per customers wish not cause it was a good setup car now has full top end build and is pushing another 200-odd more. GK FTW

Nah once the copies flooded they market they discontinued them sorry. i just scored GPSPORTS distribution right for AUS so if you like the gullflames i can help there. http://www.gpsports.co.jp/whe/whe.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38124

decking of head and block will increases comp ratio. Removing quench / squish areas in the head will decrease comp ratio (but has associated advantages and disavantages depending on application and in some instances induce knock at lower timing values than the higher comp high quench setup). see below pic of 26 head with quench area removed;

no it doesnt sorry. Without pic it is a bit hard but.... if you jack up the car is the spring held captive by the two locking bases? if not wind them up and put about 1-1.5 turns of preload on the spring. then adjust the base of the coil-over to set the height. (provided yours have base adjustmaent like the one ive attached). JIC usually do.

yeah the 33 is the ugly duckling

hey i finish my course on wed night i can come round any day after that... name a time i'll bring some jb's and we will get it sorted. is it ready other than that for tuning ? maybe kill two birds with one stone? Dont worry about ACSPLIT he is still cut he drives his mums car

i it 355 6-pot alcons under 17x9.5 uras NS-01's (discontinued) quite often... in fact we just fitted them to a 10sec GTR a month ago. Surely the driftek copies are identicle?

4 stud for NA 5 stud for turbo. the 5-stud setup will bolt straight onto the 4 stud hub carriers. see this link for a quick overview.. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38124 it is a s13 but the procedure is the same.