STATUS

+ 12 (white 33 has +12... perfect for 33) is too far on a 32 +15 is perfect. Sold 100's of +15 9.5" to gtr owners. Below are random images i have found and saved to show customers.

Front gaurds are +20mm and rears are worked and they still protrude. But i likey

on drugs... no fitty std guards. only with some sort of gaurd flare... tried heaps (URAS NS-01's ) on for customers. I like them fitted but they require work.

yeah but remmeber this is a dynapack dyno which gives different looking graphs, more emphasised than DD they are more sensitive... in a good way. Hence why i ordered one yeah its actually not great, in this application it will suffice but we flow tested and thermo-coupled a couple and there is a huge variance in flow to cyls 1 thru 6... a big differrence. there is just no real way of doing it properly, without going to another top half or complete plenum.

Ah the 3-bolt type (not T3 part like i listed above) same specs but on a 2.4 i would hazard full boost threshold would be around 4600-4700rpm in twin form. On a 26 in twin form and ext gate they are on fully by around 4300-4500 depending on engine specs.

its a good turbo (Not GARRET) but i prefer still to use the 18g (The 18g is designed for 2.2l to 2.5l), the 16g is a little too responsive the exhaust sides are the same (aprt from 8cm vs 10cm) but the comp is smaller on the 16g. I have done lots of work with these as the kits are cheap and comprehensive for DIY'ers. Spec wise TD05h-16g: 360ps max comp wheel 46.5mm inlet (60mm total diam) HKS 2530 is 47.7mm (320ps) exhaust wheel 49.1mm (56mm total diam) HKS 2530 is 53.8mm Spec wise TD05h-18g: 400ps comp wheel 50.5mm inlet (68mm total diam) HKS 2535 is 51.6mm (340 ps) exhaust wheel 49.1mm (56mm total diam) HKS 2535 is 53.8mm using part number 11520053 on a RB20 gives very good mid and top without to much dough down low (very similar to HKS 2535 but with more tope end)., the 11520031 or 11520033 on a rb20 is very responsive and has great bottom and mid but tapers off up top a bit (very similar to your HKS 2530).

if your in melb, i can do it... i repair a lot of power fc's (some i cant )

settle

sweet seats! who through? access in melb or yahoo?

Well they were all around 7/64" so around 2.5-3mm on the collector gaskets, some were under this but had pressed in sealing bead. i would probaly go for 2.5mm (as you wont have the sealing bead pressed in) and remmeber use HYLOMAR spray... (i think ive written HYLOMAR 10 times today )

Use HYLOMAR spray.... it is god on metal gaskets.

hook actuator line to OUT on the solenoid and hook a boost line from the intercooler pipe (PRE INTERCOOLER ONLY) to IN on the solenoid. Forget the factory stuff, forget the factory solenoid it CANNOT be run with the BLITZ unit.... use the new line supplied.

or even shim material would work with a good spraying of HYLOMAR, getting it laser cut would be the only drama. SCE makes a large range of copper exhaust (we used the V8 collector ones and they lasted fine even when the headers were exposed to extreme heat for extended periods (glowing red )) gaskets they dont make anything for your TIAL application, again just find a laser cutter... im sure you could get a few done and sell them off.

edit;

from memory it is 65ft/lbs..... which is not real tight. The only issues with SR's and ARP's is the fact the alloy middle sump sump section fouls and requires the removal of 3-mm off the top of those two ARP studs. im doing another as we speak.

I drove a GTR though the adelaide hills with 10cms and it was terrible.... felt like 2540's... forever chasing boost. I have done some roughish calculations and believe the housing and rear wheel/compressor combination of the K5-660R (decided against 700r) should put me where i want to be....

change the flange T4- T3 i have seen a few done real nicely at CREATD.... but the fact a decent T3 manifold was nearly impossible to get i had ours made OS

haha i run 5mm toe out on my daily, sees a fair bit of hill action thats why. On track of course at over 200 it remains perfectley wieghted. Tyre wear is not as bad as you would imagine.

its hard to describe as it is the first time in over 10 years ive encountered the problem.... it really seems far too linear more than anything. its hard to explain without drifting the car. As for response 8cm are one of the best twin upgrades available for GTR (and the family daily was awesome, now some lucky dude in sa has it).... the 10cm's though are far from street friendly and i would recommend 2860's over them all day long. for those who would like the dyno graph i have it attached but only the 16psi runs not the 18 and 20... i forgot to print the graphs (peak power was just shy of 350), it pulled about 7-10rwkw more at 16psi at speedwells but that is dynos for you and proves the power output is genuine. The rpm was calibrated also. Put simply i want 350 but with a cliff shaped delivery curve.... the opposite of what i usually reccomend for customers street cars where area under the curve s far more important. here is also my first comparo i did way back in 2000 on the 180 (SR20det) luckily my choice to go K3 paid off, to be fair to the HKS 2835R it was a 0.87 rear and the GT2835 0.61 ended up on james vahoumis S14.5 drift car, back then i had to use excell as i did not have access to the dyno printer so i compiled all the data and plot it manually. this time i will just plot it over the T517z curve....

i tried it on a 25 and could not make it fit without enough dramas to make me say "fk it" there are two Pwr steer pulley splines and well the 25 (ver 1.5) had a differrent one to the 26 kit i had. I have R34 gtt, 25 and GTR pumps at home so i will compare the splines and depth 2moro for you. obviously there are two alternator types hitachi and mitsi so that should be no dramas. if there is enough demand i could get trust to do a run? they made rb25 cams for me (for those who went to TAS 08)

could not have said it better 300V. in RB's stay away from penrite and nulon. Stick to your ester bases and you will be laughing.

haha sawl good, just having a laugh. much like comapring say a disco potato on a sr20 to the L2, the power delivery of the disco is very linear and drops off compared to the L2 and this combined with maximum grip makes for a car that isnt fun to drift higher in the rev range. We found with the T518Z it made power too early and she found herself drifting from 4500-6500rpm which translates to lower road speed. We need to be drifting at 5500-7900rpm to maintain competitve road speed. we should lose a couple of hundred (500-600) rpm of response and gain a much harder violent mid hit that carries all the way to the limiter. Singles are the only way in my oppinion for drift.... twins just tame the violence outta the delivery and once spinning tend to be harder to modulate, even the RB26'd GTST with twin HKS 2530's i tested for a customer was similar (347rwkw) and it was that drive that convinced me for drift a well matched single is the way to go. yeah as for the wing i fitted up a Down force meter and did some testing it is all in this forum somewhere... i can tell you now we run the wing on full deflection at mallala but on first setting at simmons plains and oran park as the car will not transition smoothly... it bites too hard over the hill. A quick talk to other drivers like corporal and so on will confirm this... corporals wing broke at Oran and he felt it straight away... robbies car is a great one to watch too as it makes so much smoke you can actually see the effect it has on the airflow at the back of the car. We are not talking 100kg of extra downforce but enough to give a noticeable edge... and all the small things add up to complete a package. We were at sekia hills with a few guys including the track operator and they were testing the front canards on the URAS GT kits... the driver commented on how much more turn in the car had compared to before... to much for his initial liking in fact and it took him a few laps to work out he could carry an extra 10 kays into the first corner..... not much but it all adds up. At the end of the day cat likes the feel it gives her whilst drifting, especially on wet days and thas all that really matters.

who spun that? maybe im outta the loop but i can get a jun pump for under a grand but have no chance of doing a dry sump arrangement for under a grand.... maybe my supplier is jibbing me

we used a titanium exhaust on a few of our cars and they are awesome, the weight saving on a GTR and gtst is 12.3kg!! over the std system (std 18kg and PETIR is 5.1kg) they are relatively strong and will take gutter smacks fine, but i would not make a manifold out of it as by the time you use titanium of sufficient thickness it will not weight much less than a off the shelf item . The benefit of titanium in exhausts is in low stress applications you can use very thin material... hence the weight saving. im sure to find enough material to do side pipes should prevent no real issue.

sweet.... that is the perfect solution (i just though it was no longer viable as the jap ones are NLA or incomplete), as discussed much previously. im glad RACEPACE made it i will cerainly start spreading the word.. after selling the last one to you i have had enquiries from every corner of the globe and had only bad news to tell them and yes on std Rb25 with usual bolt ons expect a 40hp increase EVERYWHERE.