STATUS

Yeah, ive been flat out finishing off a few other cars including cats, anytime next week is fine. If its to long to wait try paul at chasers.

hey hey say hi to kev at autobarn for me, and tell whitey to keep the gtr there is a place in qld www.shockreco.com.au/ ive used a few times and they are a bit hit and miss, i had some gpsports done there that came back worse the other option is fulcrum i think they will do them but expect to pay more.

i use the nw DRIFT oil filters, $19 magnet, nut on end for easy removal etc.. best filter around. oh never use penrite sin stuff sucks in rb's.... used in customer cars when they supplied it excessive pressure drop and excess noise after 2000kms when other oils are fine, i stick to redline 10w40 and motul 10w-40 300v ^^^ 3/4 sounds right.

definately single stage. Follow these; http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?s=f...nload&id=18

hahahahaha. sorry but your way off the mark about the EBC's but BLITZ was right about your $22 ebay jobbie.... is still a bleed valve. i have got multiple valves here as i repair blown PFC's, ecu's and boost controllers of all makes and models..... the blitz Spec R uses two (solenoids closed/atmos) spec s solenoids mounted parrallel in the housing.... there is no spring an ball the duty rate is 100% electronic there are no mechanical (springs) determining spring seat pressure like a bleed vlave... All decent bleed valves (turbosmart, turbotech etc) are spring/ ball bearing valves and rely on a predetermined spring pressure to increase the time the valve is seated prior to reaching target boost. These ball type valves are dumb and rely PURELY on this spring pressure. Electronic ones run real time and constantly monitor boost and only crack the actuator at the very last moment someting even the best ball and seat thype bleeder can not even come close to doing. the reason the Spec r is the best is because the twin valves actually allow the valve to hold shut longer than comparable controllers due to having twice the capacity (now your basic setup doesnt need it but twins, big gates or conditions like drift which change the load ALOT benefit from it) once at set boost it cracks open both valves and starts pulsing duty to maintain boost, twin solenoids give DOUBLE the resolution of any other controller therefore it can make adjustments to boost at twice the speed of any other EBC.... it is pure and simple pyhsics. that is the only reason i use BLITZ controllers (and i have access to all brands), i dont use older HKS EBC valves as they are like you posted an electronic screw type bleeder. yeah BEER BARON the greddy profec b is a favorite too if i cant get my hands on a R or IDIII i will fit or ask the customer to supply a B And finally the PFC boost controller (mind you im a PFC fan) is very average (fine on simple small upgrades) it has no gain adjustment and the only thing going for it is te abilty to adjust boost via the handset... they suck hardcore in decent twin gtr applications.

why would you choose such a big turbo and run 14psi... surely something smaller would do a far better job..... and match the 4082's power at 14psi easy.

yeah they are good (VPW is the distributor) but i still prefer INOVATE over anything else.

they have been discontinued for about 4-5years... (replaced by FLEX and then MONOFLEX) and are not very good for drift, they were designed more as a daily / sports model. i used them way back when in my 180 (replaced by TANABE D1's) and in the FD3S daily hill thrasher. If your serious stay away from the cheap taiwanese gear (pm me, D2, K-SPORT, pm me) look for buddy club, greddy type s, tein super drift, bilstein (will build to spec) Racing gear or DG5. The cheap taiwanses gear will tend to be sprung highly and have very poor dampening causing the car to rock about its axis. Whilst some of the jap stuff is also highly sprung te ones ive mentioned above have careful consideration taken when it comes to damper control. Going a better coil-over will allow you to use different spring rates (if its daily) and sway bars and still maintain damping control, alternatively you can buy them as is to suit std swaybars... my recomendation is to go lower on the rates and fit bars.

make sure you do the bolts up tight (turbo to manifold) and use locking tabs to prevent them from coming loose.

^^^ ive been buying PFC from steve at access in melb http://www.accessauto.com.au/ as they ALWAYS have stock (no r33 though) other guys keep you waiting for ages claiming no-one has any stock.... genuine dealers have pretty good stock though as they are considered priority.

if you've already got it, use it. if your gonna buy it would consider something else. checking PM's

or not concerned about response........, this high low thing is a real misconception and is not the reason i would purchase a boost controller... in fact mine never leaves high boost... i use my right foot to determine how fast i go.. With a correctley set up EBC you can get serious power gains throughout the initial stages due to the ebc's ability to hold back any pressure to the gates until the last possible moment. on average on a 300kw car i would hazard to guess you could get around 12-20 more kw in the mid with a decent ebc over the average manual bleeder.

its pretty to look at and ive owned about 4 over the years, not even in the same league as a BLITZ DSBC. attached is a dyno graph of a BLITZ DSBC controlling twin turbos set at 15.5psi and fairly low gain.. it is spot on except for a smal dip at the start caused by wheelspin but even then it did not spike once it gained traction... i cant find the graph for 18psi but the boost line was just as flat.

i did not check your maths but the theory and formula's are correct. therefore if your maths is correct you are ok to go

yeah, even though it isnt a consideration the turbosmart gates seem to sound like ass, i remember swapping out my SARD gate (damaged diaphragm for a turbosmart one way back for some testing on the series 6 and well yeah... regret is one word for it. They do however work well for their cost and we use a few (more 38mm than 44's) as many cannot afford anything else but whenever possible i try to swing em across to TIAL as they are easier to live with size wise.

at the end of the day though and im a huge PFC fan it is very basic and fails to perform anywhere as good as a BLITZ dual solenoid boost controller and both cost about the same.... the lack of gain and usefull boost drop compesation make it one of the last choices on my list.

bullshit, thats an excuse we often hear from poor manufacturers. we offer 100% satisfaction and 100% bolt on or your money back and in 4 years we have had 100% satisfaction and ZERO complaints. For example all our front gaurds are pre-drilled and bolt on in a couple of minutes with OEM type panel gaps... people are just used to using shit.

Guys and Dolls... forgive me but i thought PORNO straight up... maybe im just a little warped. sounds like a great gig congrats.... think of the coin and CV

if he has insurance and wants to keep it he has no choice. im the worlds biggest fan of moving plates and numbers around but somethings things need to be done corectley

GIZZMO MSiBC best bang for buck, good enough to take out dspeeds boost controller choice... and it is run on their 1000hp GTR, i use alot of these things for guys who want killer boost control but on a budget..... the processor used in the MSIBC is bigger than that in the average microtech http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_MSIBC.html

38 way too small, im using a 47mm on our car and it is marginal. if you on a budget i would only ever consider tial, ive used turbsmart and they fine but are just way too bulky .. Best bet if you r budget is a bit bigger to use brands like hks, sard (my favorite) greddy etc as they are nice and compact and flow extremely well... i used a Blitz D47D on cats car as i wanted a small gate (close too being to small as possible to aid rapid boost control) and the D47D has twin screamers and flows extremely well.

if your after quality we have a fair bit for R34, best fitting kits availible. www.uras.com.au and http://www.uras.co.jp/syohin/skyline.html#r34

Melbourne dreaming... we can all order it but no-one would stock it; Zesty, top secret and 100's of others but my favourites; Webersports www.webersports.jp Auto Craft (cool but mazda) www.auto-craft.net

i do them, usually only by reference, but you will have to drop the engine off to me in keysborough. i will strip and photograph your eng and only replace what is needed or i can do some killler monster engine... whatever your budget or choice. If you want refferences i can give you the number of guys whose engines ive built.

It will only show actual real time knocking, so if it aint knocking it wont show. 70-80 whilst running or stationary and cold? if it says 70-80 when cold then it is wired wrong.