STATUS

what ecu?

nice and close for MOTEC to have a play now

i spent ALOT of time with GREDDY in japan, and some time with JIM and GREDDY at TAS and i can tell you junichi (GREDDY boss) hold great respect for them (CRD). and its good to see it end up at CRD, jim was jovially hassling junichi and daniel for a thrash at TAS and a later on at a killer night club we went to (all nighter too) he also mentioned the possiblit of buying it .... i could only dream of coming up with the 80-odd k +shipping + compliance ++++

up until this year yes it had std ecu (now MOTEC), 550ps around about... i reckon a bit more. i speak to BLITZ quite regulary and help do their local product development here is a pic of the owner and the overseas manager (two jap guys) of blitz at a drift prac in melbourne.

i prefer to use complete clutch flywheel assys, not mix and match. like the hyper series from EXEDY / ORC / NISMO etc i do prefer to use the ORC from a driveability point of view. If your only a full daily driver dont bother as some people just cant come to grips with the differrent pickup feel.... 9 times out of ten though a quick adjustment of the pick up point will fix any unwanted driveabilty issues.

hha are you on drugs... cheap weak heavy chinese rims vs nice strong lightish jap quality..... SSR FTW... joe lose the wheels nuts though.... get some titanium or black ones. other than that its a huge improvement.

most of the driftline sponsored cars get painted at DT panels in springy from what ive seen well the drifters anyway, i used DT quite a few times now and they are spot on.

if you have a spare grand laying around would be glad to source it for you... carbon=$$$$

both the G3 link and the factory ecu are good units but it comes down to the operator and application.... even ABE-san from BLITZ in japan (arguably one of the best ECU remappers in japan) found the limits of the fatory ecu in the BLITZ R34 D1GP drift car and needed to go aftermarket (MOTEC in his case)

what oil restrictor you running? we run a 1mm and a tomei baffle (and twin oil coolers) with no issues in our drift car which see's 8000rpm for long periods of time.. that high octane sump was on the cards but requires to many mods to clear the sway bar setup in our car tis a real nice piece of gear

yeah on all the 26's i tune i put a little more into 5 and a bit more in 6, i did not have access to thermocouples when i tuned cats but i used a killer infra red temp gun i borrowed from a aircraft mech mate and compared the temps and adjusted the individual cylinder balances till they seemed pretty close..... my method was bit rough but the % diff seems to be about right. (WRX's and other setups for that matter need similar tricks)

Tomei is the ultimate, best bang for buck is the JUN and TRUST/GREDDY ones they are same as each other and i have never had either of them fail.

haha yeah, i went the lazy route first then after a few drives and pulls was not happy with the way it traced throught the map.... re did it the correct way and the result was 1000% better. Take it from ben and myself that if you are going to the effort of a D-JETRO then do it right, the system STR8E180 has posted pics of works poorly.

Last box i got was empty..... the following was the response from arp via local distributor. 86ft/lb for the head studs 43ft/lb for the rods

castor rod or in japlish tension rod. if it is just a daily get some whiteline bushes, if you give it the occasional track day go something better.

just checked netbank... 100% no transfer. pm me acc details you deposited it too or email [email protected] soon as cash hits i can get these off.

WTF????? i have not recieved your money and we even called and SMS'd to see if you still wanted them, with no reply................... they are still here waiting in the same spot. I take offense to the above greatly. If you have proof of transfer (im assuming wrong acc) let me know or at least call me 0419 590220 if there was a problem

what are the results the others guys cant attain that you are hoping for i play with loads of L2's... pm is fine.

valvoline ones are shite..... stick to KN or PURE one..... if you want the best go a DRIFT branded one similar to KN but has a magnet, twice the internal pleating and same high flow but better filtering.

they re all the same including R34 GTT.... i run the gtt box in the drifter and it only has upgrades in oiling and shimming gearsets are the same.

soryy i have been flat out opening the new workshop. i will look over the pm's.

yeah motor out, those 4 small 10mm at the back of the sump suck harcore to remove with box attached too... im in the same boat as you... cat cracked the sump last round so i had it out on the monday... cut up another good sump (removed diff etc) and put it back in on the friday ready for gazzanats..... then we just lost our engine so its back out again (i must admit it did ok for a high kay stocky, having done a full season and well over 120k in the donor car) and am flat out building it for the next DA round.... stupid donuts during demo spun a bearing... another lap at calder practice finished it off

they are all bleed..... ball or no ball... still a bleeder. From memory the last turbosmart one i pulled apart had a ball bearing in it.

got one if you need it, off r33 in perfect condition.

Cheers i ended scoring a complete R33 engine cheap. i appreciate the reply though.