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not easily, i have had a few (normal fc's with ap stickers on the back) come ex japan that have had all the AFM % values set to zero and it uses the boost control kit to reference the map sensor but i have never tried to do it myself... i have a feeling it needs flashing by a ap dealer.

yes you will need rings. email the HKS dealer in greece Auto Ergonomics Athanasiou Diakou 22 str. MOSHATO GREECE PC: 183 44 Tel: 0030 210 9427417 Fax:0030 210 9425371 www.autoergonomics.com E-mail: [email protected] or visit this to find another eupropean HKS dealer http://www.racecarnewmedia.co.uk/hks/dealers/index.asp

short shifters suck... fit a GTR shifter... best shifter mod ever. ps we run GTT boxes behind the 26 with gtr shifters.

yes but you need to use the r32 front snout mounting bolts from memory.

yeah it is better to get some decent castor rods (CUSCO, URAS ect as they have dust boots and far better rose joints $339 pair lifetime warranty) the xtra lock spacers from uras are about 19 bucks and the whole arm if you want to upgrade are 239pair.

there is no way you are spinning 4th.

agreed a flex pipe fitted into a front pipe is far cheaper than a new manifold.

send it OS get the price realistic and i reckon you would sell quite a few. Target price needs to be $999 (it would be nice to see it without the adapter also, for generic use) would the engine need to be lifted to accomodate for extra thickness between sump and block? i know my sump sits within 3-4mm of the xmemeber.

i second that, i would get him to increase the machined lip around the gate hole just to be sure, i reckon the left hand side is sitting up on the rough casting... not in the machined ring.

just this one. i will interesting to see it with the bigger housings, to compare with other twin setups. At the moment the thing is hardy working at 16psi either.

is it the original thermostat? most engines sit in front cuts for ages and 5 times out of ten the thermostat siezes.

we did a circuit practice friday arvo at winton.... thing seems ok.. wednesday at calder will be the real test.

yeah the engine is a "kinder suprise" and has done well over 150k (NISMO dash in front cut so probaly closer to 250k) and a full DA season the limiter is set at 8000 but power increased only minimally from 7500-8000 so its tuned up to 8000rpm.. subsequently pulled the runs short to around 7200-7600 this run just happens to finish a bit earlier hence the pronounced drop off after 7000. RPM scale is 100% accurate.

wheelspin

if your in melb i can do it, so could many others im sure.

Well for those who wanted to know how the K5-660R with a dual exit 47mm blitz gate stacks up.... here you go. I am pretty happy with the results and it would be interesting to see how it directly compares to the T04Z with the equivalent 0.81 housing instead of the 0.61 it now has... Remmeber we use it for drift so we are looking at low and mid range...top end is nearly useless to us so i choose two housings, the #7 (10cm ish) and a #9 (12cm ish) This graph is running the smallest rear housing the #7... and 16psi, we will try the bigger housing after tassie just to run a back to back comparo on response differrences vs top end gain.. We are happy with the #7 housings response and peak power considering how low the boost is. I reckon with some cam timing adjustment it can be further improved on... atm engine is 100% stock internally apart from a 1.2mm head gasket which was already fitted when i bought the front cut..... Peak torque @ 4200rpm peak power @ 7000rpm all run at 16psi.

between 600-800 if its a twin 500 for a single. new they are about 1500

where you located?

not to be rude but new from nissan without the lip they are less than 500 from memory.

they take about 10mins to get used to... so dont worry. i drove mark phillips full dog boxed r33 in peak hour melbourne traffic (and track) on numerous occasions without any issues. i have also driven a few wrx's and so forth whilst tuning and they are vry easy to live with... the opposite could be said of the few PAR boxes ive driven.

these are my favorite, the noltecs are fine but these are horn and 1/4 of the weight and i can vouch for the quality of the rose joints.... but expect a hole in your wallet to the tune of 750.

DOH! its sounds like a bad tuner situation. take it back and get it sorted. to be honest though cold start can sometimes be a bitch if your stuck for time... ie not able to have car for a dead cold start.

i use drift rails (suit all the drift seats) available from auto concepts.

make sure they have adr. Never fit seats without adr.

lambo door and skyline should never be uttered the same sentence.