STATUS

nah pull FTW, due to the conical shape of the fans and no condensor fitting the rad further back you would have heaps of room to front mount them, but i prefer pull type over push, the only reason i mentioned it was to save cutting metal... only need to shorten rad hoses.

ok clearance is as follows: rad to CAS = 90mm rad to pwr steer nut= 65mm rad to pwr steer pulley= 73mm rad to balancer pulley = 50mm all these clearances are enough for the fans to JUST fit, ie flexing them to sqeeze in then once in they have about 5 mm in all directions as a minimum for clearance and there is no rubbing issues. i hope yours has as much or else we need to find another solution for your car.... like moving rad towards engine (AC condensor forward towards cooler) and fitting fans to the front of the rad. Simon (for your mates car) can you move rad back and fit the flex-a-lite 12" slimline pushers to the front instead of pullers?

yeah the stock flex-a-lite ones are, but they are nothing like the low profile fans.... i could only fit one davies craig fan way off to the side of the rad... now its got the twin flex-a-lite one fitted no worries.... i dont remmeber referring to the 140 anywhere especially as a pusher?? looking at simons pics there should be plenty of room... you only need 4-6mm ish of clearance

i dont think this is an job for you anymore..... something is seriously amiss and you need to get it all measured up properly and honestley if you cant get your head around simple head gasket thicknesses your gonna burst a blood vessel figuring out deck height and so forth which all seem to be up the shit in your engine. for a start pistons cannot be shimmed.... the block should not be sleeved.... and who knows if 1mm is going to be fine now? if the pistons are hitting then either a) wrong pistons fitted or b) wrong rods (unlikely) or c) wrong gasket d) ongoing issue with a warped deck and the head has been machined too much etc.... it all needs to be stripped, dummy assembled and precise measurments made.

i will measure cats for you and post it soon, as by 6.30 i will be heading towards the airport.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Th...BEARING+CARRIER here are the specs i posted some time back.

that looks like colapsed rear wheel bearing (the hicas slop should nearly be silent, a wheel bearing will crunch)... very common on Nissans especially with huge -ve offset wheels or those put through drift or extended circuit periods.

get the hard pipe kit from JJR, cheap fits great and just replace the blue silicone with DRIFT branded sillicone as it is black. Auto concepts is the distributor. http://www.autoconcepts.com.au/

After swapping to the greddy rad (nearly 3.5 times the core width) i welded in a lower R32 front rad support and notched the s13 upper (and plated it for strength) but with the std GTR and JJR style aluminium rads i could still fit the flex-a-lite fans. Tilting it forward will help abit but the bottom stays pretty much the same distance from crank... maybe 3mm diff at max lean. Cars like Kuroi run a squat custom radiator and move it right forward and sit it in the A/C condensor mounts, but this was too much of a comprimise for me, i wanted off the shelf radiators etc to fit so that in the case of a accident it could be fixed easily without custom parts.

measure from the balancer to the radiator for me (must be soon though as i board a plane for HK then japan later tonight)

sweet looking car, hes doing pretty good for a beginer too, did he link the last stage by the end of the day?

yeah the twin 12" work fine, i also use a NISMO thermostat. As for switching i like to use the drift fan controller to engage two separate relays one for each fan and each relay runs a 50ish amp circuit breaker (avail any auto shop) so that in the case they over heat they dont shut down for good.... they will cool down and reset. i used a pivot fan controller originally but it was shit and caused the fans to stop working on more than one occasion. i also use large gauge wiring as i found out after doing a strobe test on the fan speed that with the orginal wiring i used only ran the fans at 80% not at full speed... so spend the time on the 12v supply (i used audio 6awg) you should be laughing.

why would they want to? every one in the trade knows it is pushed to buyers only to make the most money (it has the highest mark up of all audio brands) how does this benefit the customer?

hahaha my comp locked up early this morn..... how the fck did it do that ^^^^^

in really depends on the application, i prefer on GTR's to leave the factory manifolds and heat shields in place but in sr20 for example anything over 230ish i will turf the manifold in favour of a few proven designs (not the cheap genric crap), up until the rb25 manifold was available i would never consider changing the factory item, even on small high mounts i would make up an adapter to lift turbo and run a gate pipe down for the waste gate as the factory manifold flowed OK'ish and combined with a good heatshield provided good results at a very low cost.

it will work with a/c (we run two large oil coolers and pwr steer cooler mounted in front of rad and a 115mm cooler ) if you use the flex-a-lite fans, you could keep the extra front fan too for extra safety. on cats car now with the greddy 40mm radiator and 26 harmonic balancer (ALOT bigger than 25) i have had to remove some ribbing on the fan shrouds (1min job) but it all still fits as the harmonic balancer sits in the low section between the fans. (see red dot in attached pic) Bear in mind these fans are some of the best money can buy so dont expect to pay davies craig prices. search the part number 220 (google) for pricing then ring around, i know they are instock so price matching would be easy. dimensions are 39.4cm x 66.7 x 6.6cm (remmber 6.6cm is the middle of the flex-alite fan metal plate which is the silver part in pic) with this metal plate removed it frees up another 5-9mm.

Hardimans are the importer, autobarn and repco are the retail outlets. i use the same fans on our cars and recommend the over evrything else, the davies craig and ice fans dont cut it when the going gets tough. Drift Performance products also do a killer digital fan controller for $169 bucks andis probaly the best thing ive bought for ages. i posted pics a while back. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/25...ti-t200088.html

fitted a few of those, even used a BLITZ supercharger kit last month both sweet but the turbo is a nicer power i dont like the linear power of superchargers.... it was pretty cool that you can actually turn it off or have it set to power mode though... in power moder it will only engage at full throttle which is kinda cool for saving fuel

fitted a few of those, even used a BLITZ supercharger kit last month both sweet but the turbo is a nicer power i dont like the linear power of superchargers.... it was pretty cool that you can actually turn it off or have it set to power mode though... in power moder it will only engage at full throttle which is kinda cool for saving fuel

fitted a few of those, even used a BLITZ supercharger kit last month both sweet but the turbo is a nicer power i dont like the linear power of superchargers.... it was pretty cool that you can actually turn it off or have it set to power mode though... in power moder it will only engage at full throttle which is kinda cool for saving fuel

fitted a few of those, even used a BLITZ supercharger kit last month both sweet but the turbo is a nicer power i dont like the linear power of superchargers.... it was pretty cool that you can actually turn it off or have it set to power mode though... in power moder it will only engage at full throttle which is kinda cool for saving fuel

ISC are just cheap crap like K-sport D2 etc for a few measly dollars more you could do so much better... like bilstein, greddy type-S (with come with free electronic damper control now), or tein. just out of interest (i no longer work for autobarn HO anymore) but which store did you have issues with? PM Me if you like.

hahahaha autobarn SA dont sell alpine... only cartoys and tonkins do.

you need to use a GTiR bearing carrier. The clutches usually come supplied with them. They are common and most workshops will have a few laying around i know i got about 3 or 4 in the garage as spares for our cars.

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/ cheap too and quick delivery.