STATUS

your phone broken?

The ff pads are great for street and occasional track days (good value). Motul RBF for fluid is cheap and good quality. The GP's and XL's are no good for track days.

google brother

did you input inches or mm? it needs to be in inches. using http://www.racingsuspensionproducts.com/spring%20rate.htm i get 14kg/mm or 794Lb/in

Remmember the above calcs are imperial, i have a spreadsheet i made in metric. here is the equation for those who would like to know how the calcs work so you can make your own. 11,250,000 - Torsional Modules For Steel (Constant) CSPWD - Coil Spring Wire Diameter (How thick is the wire?) 8 - Constant NOAC - Number Of Active Coils (Coils that are free to move. Not coils seated. It may be that 1/2 of the top and bottom coil is seated causing a spring with 8 coils to have the distance of 7 free.) CMD - Coil Mean Diameter (The diameter from center to center of the coil. Measure the diameter of the coil from wire center to wire center. If you know the coil is .5 inches thick and the outside diameter of the coil spring is 3 inches, then the Coil Mean Diameter would be 2.5 inches) (11,250,000 x (CSWD x 4)) (8 x NOAC x (CMD x 3)) All Measurements in inches - calculate as decimal ie 1/2 inch as 0.5

not quite... can you pm me which store and guy? just for my records. It can and has been done heaps and works ok but really depends on the setup.

id be looking over that car for sure.... was it raised from the titanic? just becareful with cheap ebay arms the welding can be very sub std and the rose joints can last months not years.

Top performance specialise in KONI's and know thier shite, just make sure you explain your intended usage.

i got sick of doing the same thing on ns.com years ago here are a few good calculator sites. It is a simple calculation. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/ShocksSpringRateF...te%20Calculator http://www.iroczone.com/calcs/chassis.htm this one will give you a Kg/mm result also Metric and imperial result

KYB based apex items.

yeah, i was so dissapointed how about you? the interior is worse than a 15k hyudai accent and the things are so poorly built.... my bubble was well burst. I had waited for years to have a thrash. the gt40 on the other hand....fkn sick... i can live with the access issues... cause the rest is so damn fun.

then you get some US race engine guru saying;- "For years the battle has raged on as to which is better, an I-beam or an H-beam. In pure tension and compression, they are both equally capable, assuming equal cross-sectional area. But when you add the fact that some components of the combustion event attempt to screw the piston down the cylinder, the greater distance from the center-line of the pin to the edge of the beam gives the H-beam an advantage in resisting such twisting forces. We've seen both designs used successfully in a wide variety of extreme applications, so the jury is still out. Perhaps the biggest advantage of the H-beam design is that it gives the manufacturer more flexibility when sculpting the rod into the most effective form from a strength-to-mass standpoint" Honestly i believe for our cars that ultimately the quality is more important than design, take for example TOMEI, TRUST (Carrillo) and various other companies all choose to use H-beam over I-beam because the service life is considered longer. Tomei http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e060_conrod.html GREDDY (offer H as premium and I as entry level) http://www.trust-power.com/05engine/connecting_rod_i.html HKS (premium rods) http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/engine...ting/index.html Flip a coin and go for a reputable brand.... Budget - I-beam or A-beam (brand) or SCAT H-beams Flush - H-beam (brand) Rolling- exotic shizzle

Saw a nice RB26 POWERBOND balancer thursday at a trade show, 25% underdriven and 4.118kg. They list both differrent RB26 balancers, one for 1991-93 and 1993-on.

i have given all the latencies to gizzmo for their tech forum, i will find the link and post it. If he hasnt done it yet i will post up my table on monday (its at work).

understandable, but your are hardly in a position to be objective, working for federal, and i also admit I probaly should not have made the generalisatoin about the carcasses (which is tecnically not correct) but the delam issue was a real issue early on (not the 595RS) and was experienced by some of 'your' drivers... i know as i helped suggest/work out a few setup remmedies.... in fact i even did a days worth of drifting on them. as i mentioned in the orginal post i also pointed out that the run flat was the cause of the failure in this instant not the carcass.

a bit of fun..... the whole point the whole time. Remmeber we all drive 6-15 year old budget hand me downs (they aint supercars remmeber) that have very little hard core track work so all in all everything we do is for fun or for provoking a bit of thought process.... hardly worth taking too seriously...

asking for extended payment terms? no seriously though, no matter what your lifestyle or your habits no-one deserves to die unjustly.

ah yeah ive seen these killer 8l sumps down at access performance in vermont... killer items.

Really bad news... sorry to hear. eeek penrite... cricuit sprints is harsh on oil and drifting is even harsher... both penrite and Castrol both breakdown way to quickly in harsh conditions.. we spent a lot of time testing differrent oils last and early this year and group V's are really the only way to go. You should see castrol edge after one drift day.... it comes out like thin as like metho or water and it noticeably traumatised ... drop out 300v or redline 10w-40 and it is like new after 3 events even mobil 1 seemed to fair way better redline actually told us to run the same sump all year but im old school and that scares me, we now change it every 2nd event to be sure. i look at oil as insurance, pretty cheap insurance.

the flanks on these cars also provide enourmous downforce.... function as well as form.

sounds like a scam or kits will be average thats a given. google the name im sure you will get some hits

i use them exclusively whenever possible, by far one of the best springs money can buy.... those and eibach

the rear wing will have ultimately more aero effect on anything compared to any other aero device due to its size and placement..... i am trying to figure out a way to measure canards atm

no.... just share it with me.

yeah only the incrementation relative to the pin is differrent between NAME brand gears, tomei and Greddy list two diff part numbers but you can use the same gear (only the degree marks will be off)