STATUS

internal or external ignitor?

you have the old software version download this: http://www.trust-power.com/03electric/Ulti..._Vmanage103.exe

sounds like the pressure source to the map sensor is wrong, or it is blocked.

Remmeber guys this is just an aid, it CANNOT read the TOTAL amount of downforce it is just giving you an idea as to what your changes (angle of attack and hieght etc) are doing, this newton reading along with your g dataloging allow the user to make an informed decision. Remmeber other forces like the boot latch, hinge mechanism and its affect on the leverage to the sensors all effect the readings.... it is a tool not a magician One of the only ways i could find the total downforce would be to do two runs on a flat road, with pressure sensor's in between the rear strut tops and the body. Do one run as a control and log the results do another run with the wing at full deflection and minus the original results from the second.... this would give downforce as measured at the strut top... still not at the end user the wheels but for arguments sake fairly close. It is based on a GT wing much like the sards and Voltex 3D wings, the 3d section allows the best comprimise between maximum downforce (more than std airfoil types) and minimum drag.

depends who does em, i never trusted them and have never used them in any of our comp cars but if your on a budget they are hard to beat... the spray pattern and atomisation of the patrol (was going to fit t04z or t78 to tow car) ones is no worse than std.

but you guys get youre ass kicked by the d1 boys repeatedly v8 or not. We may be aussied out next year we will see which manufacturer package best suits us... ford six i reckon..... as the eight is super fragile (damn 80 foot timing chains) and the GTO thtas available will take to much to get competitive and will be lhd.

new? nengun for sure the cheapest. Not sure why your AVO ones gave worse fuel economy... must have been a bit average with thier high flowing. I have highflow ones in my patrol (same as skyline) and they give the same ecomomy as stock.

yeah this forum seems to have real issues with atmosphere BOV's im not sure if it is becuase the tuners are shit or if the guys just dont fit em right in the first place, personally i never have, or never will use them for various reasons but plenty of the cars i inherit to tune do and honestly 5mins in the right spots on the map stops stalling altogether.

exactly pissed myself for ages..... and before you say it... yes i am a bored kent.

Or use some new lock type nuts (the factory type lock ones dont work so well after a long period of time) it wont come loose again. Just dont use nylocks.... ive seen it done

i must admit that having a wing is better than holes in the boot, slam on a stealth wing asap. Is it back on the road yet?

the finer points of the english language elude you, do they not?

hahahaha no apreciation..... just lots of WTF???

got a spare carbon set 350

The new greddy type-s seem to be the flavour of 86 drivers in japan and the us after they won a test day done by Tarzan and Tsuchiya... tarzan even went on to write a review for dspeed i think.

its a band aid fix that actually works just as well. The cradle bushes in our race car below are shot but the pineapples (decent ones) have done the job fine for over 3 years even with the tortuous abuse. They actually give less deflection than the new nismo items i put in the GTR (big waste of time and cash) and the both have exactly the same amount of NVH.

for sure, so many times ive had to redo an alignment at home because of a dodgy alignment. string lines FTW.... you would be amazed how precise a couple of crayons, some fishing line and 4 jack stands can be..... most of the time it is better than those fancy machines, i must admit thoug Resevoir tyrepower (motorsport experts) is the best place in vic i have found so far and we have tried all the big names. In fact he was the only shop we visited who could adjust the traction arms without me having to give a explanation as to what they actually do...

nah its pretty easy, i use a folding set quare with a dial angle gauge and it usually gets me to within .05 of a degree. the only issue you may encounter is the amount of factory adjustment, depending on how low you may run out of adjustment.

This can do....... LAG... nah who knows what exhaust wheel is in it?

haha i was just about to post exactly the same thing.... keep it local no need to go offshore. CREATD's machine is spankers new too so you know your getting the most accurate job. They are located in melb 03 93577663.

yeah this one is on loan... just wanted to play with a new toy but i want one

you probaly already sorted it but i usually just remove the back pump cover, remove the pump vanes, re assemble and block the rear outlet.... works a treat and cost nothing ooh and takes 5 mins

yeah it is a piece of piss.

yah funny you should say this, i was speaking to the some jap guys on tuesday and i mentioned that i was looking for a rb25 balancer to run on cats car to allow me to run r34 r33 gtst pwr steer pump (more crank to rad clearance) but they advised me against it as it is known to increase engine harmonics and oil pump failures.... its seems to be quite a normal swap here.

for the street forget it... unless you do top speed runs, i removed the rear lip off my soarer and it got squirrely at any thing over 170... put it back all good. I am still playing but yes you can actually log laps ie downforce versus g" etc but i have to play a bit more with it.... all in japanese... fumbling through it.