STATUS

correct slide the tps to adjust the tps voltage. Andrew fitting up some 02 sensors to your car will help ten fold too especially your cruise trims. Once you set your tps drop past one sat and i will check the idle lambda for you, your 26 had a vac leak through the old idle control valve (going on your above statements) so your idle mixtures will be way off now its fixed. not gonna cost you a cent.

yup and back to back testing proved the "actual" difference was negligible.... still got a few drums of the "super special" E85 still laying there....

remove one of the throtlle bracket 12mm headed bolts.

Its a good thing, i still have mine in active duty.

I do alot of adaptronics and the only let down is certain parts of the software, its uber clunky to use and takes forever to adjust things like cold start and temp compensations, its all individual figures not a whole table as such. The fuel and ign tables ae super effiecent to tune though and very user friendly. (if your reading guys take it as constructive critisim ) great product.

Go price is generally $1650 inc ait sensor.

Simon i have pm turned off, email me [email protected] and i will forward on the details.

if we can reliably make well over 900hp from a PFC.... what shortcoming did you find that we didnt? question not criticism.

depending on vvti or not there is either 8mm or 10mm bolts i back out and fit an adapter into on the plenum.

this is what i use. Cheap and easy. Allows 20 circuits, just keep you connectors off lights etc and solder them to the loom, generally do an efi race car in a day.

yeah, but ive found a nice spot on the 1jz intake manifold latley which is better.

generally spikes in solenoid duty cycle cause it..

its been detonating its head off.... or valve in this case.

if its been detonating enough to kill one, the others are probably close behind.

nah mine plots every 50rpm and that sine type wave is an issue with boost controller or boost control plumbing to gate. Blitz boost controolers do that if it is just clipping the overboost setting.

Adaptronic, on your setup.

thats politely putting it.....

Run dual 6cm L2 for around 800hp or dual 8cm for 800-1100hp on 98. Ive tuned a few pairs on similar setups to yours i prefer the 6cm as it makes it very liveable down low, the 8s are ballistic.. forget 10cms.

If its done right you should only lose around 10-15% economy, yes its more painful to get perfect as most cars need to be driven for much longer in real time with accel ms logs and so forth. It it only becomes real tricky on cars with ITB and map based ecu's, ive found i need to run a separate tps based map due to poor resolution. Another trick is to hold closed loop deeper in to the tps and kpa scales. Most factory lines and harware is fine. Certain pumps like the tomie nismo etc are also fine for ridiculous rwkw. Most skyline guys are running 700-odd cc injectors anyway so unless your chasing over 350rwkw its not an issue.

Exactly this whole debate is moot... even the worst case scenario in e85 (say even E65) is 100% safer than an average 98 fill. so much innuendo and scare tactics out there about having to buy drum E85... but those guys just need to justify their existence so they stay in business. 50 % of our tuning is E85 and 90% of the E85 tuning is on pump E85 the pidly 10% thats left is drum.

or using $20 chinese tyres

Nice kmon is killer. if you can hear it in engine bay your already 3 degrees to far ie is already been suffering light to moderate det for those 3 odd degrees. I think i have a kmon setup thread somewhere with khz settings etc... Once you get used to the kmon you will love it, im using knockbox atm but the beauty of the kmon is the logging software.

get some decent knock ears, or are you running some already? impossible to tune without them, you cant hear det audibly till way to late and headgaskets are gonna blow left right and centre.