STATUS

HAHA ^^ Im back in town but sick as a dog, went wake boarding at wet in wild in orlanda and did not heed the sign saying that this water contains herpes, pink eye, and aids.... so ive been bed ridden. For those desparate to get in i will offer SAU guys first dibs next week, just pm me what day suits and i will make it work Thanks again for the present and pics will be up once i type without sneezing boogers all over the keyboard.

Just a quick log in to thank you guys for a real suprise wedding present, i will update all the guys who were involved later as im rushing at the airport to catch another flight. The present went to good use 7 sins of vegas or somehing like that Short of waking up on the roof of Caesars it really was a "hangover" style bucks day and night the wedding day was just as Different, so again THANK YOU ALL

including drilling and tapping the intake manifold for the the air temp sensor? if so bargain. The Air intake temp sensor is the single most important item on the PFC d-jetro, so make sure its fitted.

haha 5mins between booking stuff nearly got mugged in gardena yesterday...... lol

5mins, a roller door and a screwdriver should yield great results.... all for $0

the cheap Chinese dealers on ebay sell the same hoses as samco, i have not been able to pick the difference.... i will find the seller next time i log on. bit of thinners or prepsol on a rag and the names come straight off if your a brand whore like me

book it in to a reputable shop, the microtech is a simple tool but it can work just fine in a setup like yours. many guys dont take advantage of some of the tuning capabilities as they are a little unorthodox.

give him my email, im back in a few weeks and have 100's if they will help out?

latest e85 tune was 445rwkw on std 2.5L.... e85 FTW. ps just ran i to some local yankies in a R35 gtr at taco bell in malibu they love the aussie skyline scene.

Yeah sorry i hate them with a passion. Rob @ sabbadin is where i send them all. Rob is a top bloke.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RB20det-Int...sQ5fAccessories

its the low speed filling thats the issue. ie slow 60ft times.

The first post above is made to centre the frequency @ an approximate target. The bandwidth control is then used to determines how far above and below the centre frequency the device will detect, i.e. the width or spread of frequencies. A narrow bandwidth adjustment is very specific, useful for accurately accentuating a specific knock frequency (if you know it). Narrow bandwidth adjustments tend to have less noise. A broader bandwidth allows more frequencies to be heard, useful for a new set-up where the actual frequency is not known or for initial testing and finding the correct centre frequency. Broader adjustments tend to have more "noise". There is no correct Bandwidth per see but the narrower the bandwidth the less feedback or noise will be recorded or heard. Nice for loose or noisy solid cammed type engines that naturally emit lots of mechanical noise. Below is a diagram: Yellow vertical line is the centre frequency (in this case 6khz) Red horizontal line is narrow bandwidth Green horizontal line is broad bandwidth

Just do it One of the best rb20 setups we had through ran a KU engineering plenum and it made a respectable 280 odd rwkw on std engine. So with your planned upgrades for the turbo it should work out OK, it will be a little soft with the 300zx setup. The ultimate issue with rb20 is the head port size not the plenum.

yup and yup

Its more to do with bore size, if you look @ the specs you will notice most jap 6 inline cyls are close as they all run around the 86-87mm bore. There is much more to it than just bore size as many things can skew the optimal frequency but this guide will get you close enough. I'm pretty sure yo could use a usb charger to run it.... i will ask ray @ gizzmo for you.

BC's are nice for the money (coilovers) i have used the other "local" coil-over brands and they are all pretty average. Seriously your stag with a T67 would be one of my "garage" cars (something id like in the garage), we have done quite a few stagea's and they come up great (even a few RWD only stags) The auto 4wd versions with a 3000 stall converter and factory lock up is probably one of the most fun cars ive driven. They really wake up around the 280kw zone and are seriously fast.. A MV auto upgrade is also advised around the 280 and up mark and having installed a few can say their work is spot on, easy high 11 low 12 second wagon that is easy to live with as a daily is nothing to sneeze @.

When using Knock monitoring systems you need to input a frequency to monitor use this guide as a starting point. I often get called and asked what starting point to use as it is not something that is easy to find in any literature, i have put together a list of my starting points for a few different engines. If the engine is not listed just ask and i will add it to the list (only takes a few minutes to work it out). RB20 7.3khz RB25 6.7khz RB26 6.7khz RB26 (forged) 6.6khz RB28 6.6khz RB30 6.7khz RB30 (forged) 6.6khz VG30 6.6khz VR38 6.0khz VR38 (4l) 6.0khz VQ20 7.5khz VQ30 6.2khz VQ35 6.0khz SR20 6.7khz SR20 (2.2l) 6.6khz SR20 (2.35l) 6.3khz CA18 6.9khz 2JZ 6.7khz 2JZ (forged) 6.6khz 2JZ (3.4l) 6.6khz 1JZ 6.7khz B16A 7.1khz LS1 5.8khz LS2 5.7khz XR6T 6.2khz XR8 (modular) 6.4khz

The one above was sourced by us, $700-900 depending on exchange.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/T6...ea-t328344.html

i prefer to use larger exhaust cams on sr's @ around 300rwkw 264 inl 272 exh. on the rb's its all about the capacity, 3l will take a big cam without any loss whereas a 20 withe the same cam will be a dog. On your 26/30 i would go 260 in and exhaust. look up the t67 on stagea thread a few posts down, i just did a back to back on a rb25 with cams and t67 dyno results are there.

Just had the car pictured above on the dyno, only change was we fitted a set of Camtech drop in's (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb20-Rb26-Rb26-Camshaft-t308743.html) Car still has std head and bottom end. Blue is before cams. Red is after cams.

theres easy 360 in them if its a 10cm rear.

If the car looks modified then yes they will start to investigate, best bet is to do everything in wrinkle black and covertly then they wont even bother looking.

I have sent about 15 cars through EPA with nistunes and all passed with flying colours, cars ranged from 230kw to 400kw. A sticker change on a AFM goes a long way to conceal its changed on a RB25 as its the same size, GTR's are a non issue as i use NISMO items and they look factory too. Injectors must be painted and its easily done with the correct plastic model paint, will even handle jet wash and steam cleaning.