l_uk3y

I made up a block off plate on my R33. Only stalling problems i could report was if you gave it a decent hit of Boost then put foot on clutch and didnt release clutch. So basically. it would only stall if i wanted it to. However I removed the plate because it was making the car run rough and it would pop and bang a lot more. Very Easy thing to make. Give it a go. If your not happy it takes all of a couple of minutes to take out. Luke

When i fixed the cooler hose i found that it was boosting too the moon (guage said almost 20 before freaked and took the foot off) thats when i wound the boost back as far as i could without the nut falling off. Which was when i was getting the results of roughly 0.5 bar from about 3000rpm to 5000rpm. then from 5000rpm moving upwards with revs to 0.8 What i find interesting about this is i have no idea why the controller (turbotech at the time) would have been turned up. I have faith in my mechanic that they arnt fiddling with that. I might try turning up the boost tonight on the controller and seeing if it hits my goal earlier in the revs then creeps to the exact same level or whether it hits a higher point. As a quick question. On a Stock RB25 turbo. 0.80 bar boost as absolute maximum in short bursts shouldnt cause any problems? I know its getting pretty close to the limit.

Hey Guys. Hope someone can help diagnose a problem for me. R33 with Rb25 with Full exhuast (with compliance cat), Pod, Cooler, Splitfires, untuned at this stage. And boost controller. I was running a Catback exhaust and a turbotech. Set at about 11psi. Boost levels were as Stable as ANYTHING. good as gold. Sent the car in to mechanics get the Split Dump with custom front pipe installed. When i got the car back the first night i blew an intercooler hose first time i gave it any (previously never a prob). Anyways next day i found that i was boosting WAY over the mark. Screwed the controller which was a TURBOTECH back as far as possible. and was getting about 9psi until 5000rpm. then it is creeping upwards with revs marginally over what im willing to let it go to. From here i proceeded to swap out the turbotech and installed an electronic Blitz spec S controller. Set at its absolute lowest setting im still getting the same response of creeping once the revs hit roughly 5. and it is telling me Peak boost im getting is 0.80 bar. (I want to aim at about 0.7 straight off the bat as it used to before the trip to the mechanics). Ive been through making sure all my vaccum lines are connected properly and theres no splits. And i cant find anything wrong. Could the dump pipe be causing this maybe? Maybe im missing something? For 2 diff boost controllers to be doing exactly the same thing something must be wrong elsewhere. Im running out of ideas. If anyone has any thoughts how i can level the boost out so i can turn the boost up a bit to hit my target and not overshoot, then please share. Thanks for any help Luke

Choice 1. Black Evo III. Jap Rims, Stripped interior, Roll Cage, race seats. Few basic but not extreme power and suspension mods. Choice 2. Black 70's Merc with largest Chromies that will fit without issue, Tint, Black Leather interior with Chrome Trim

I got a Nur Spec R on the Rb25. Love the sound once she passes "normal driving conditions". Annoyingly loud/droney on idle and when your trying to avoid attention. In basic. Great when you want it. But 90% of the time its a pain in the butt and results in very nervous driving through town.

Not the one i was thinking (chances of finding it are slim) but thats Exactly the type of photo im after(the engine photo im thinking of was very much like that 2nd one but with 2 large top mounts). But still. good stuff. Thanks for those. Ill add them to the list.

Hey guys. After spending about an hour and a half searching here and yahoo. Who would have thought it would be so hard to find really good wallpapers of GTR's. Im in the middle of revamping the shed. Ive got this "in theory fantastic idea" of having 6 framed posters put up showing in order each major Skyline model. (R31 coupe, R32 GTR, R33 GTR, R34 GTR and the new R35) I have the R32, R34 and R35 sorted although a better R34 would be good. But im totally lost in find a good hi res of an R31 coupe or an R33 GTR. If anyone can help out im after either Circuit Spec, Known Tuner version (i.e nismo), Or Completely stock. Anything you's could post would be great keeping in mind that hi res is important as will be going to printers to be done at a decent size. Oh. And the other photo (for those that noted i said 6 posters but only 5 car models) I remember seeing somewhere (but cant remember where) a photo of a Highly Tuned RB26 compete with Turbos hanging off it. But NOT in an engine bay. might have been in a magazine. im not sure. If anyone has anything like that can they post that to. Heck sorry to make this such a long post. catchyas Luke

Hey guys. Thanks for clarifying that. Albeit in a long drawed out way Btw Sydneykid. i did search and i have read that post by you before. Very good info but yeah. Bit to "heavy" for someone with my suspension knowledge base. It would make a lot more sence to me if i had a suspension tuning screen like that from gran turismo in front of me to adjust as i read. All i know is i have Height adjustment and Damper adjustment. So to clarify. Raise height slightly. Stiffen front, loosen rear??? Lol. Pardon for bein such a suspension noob. but hey. You have to start somewhere. I realise that the coil overs im getting arent the best for drag app. But i want the car to be an all rounding street car slightly circuit bias'd. And yeah. I was struggling with axle tramp with the stock suspension. But in saying that - im also struggling with the stock clutch so lets just say. Conservative launches anyway till im further ahead with the build. On a positive. Will have the car back by end of this week to see how she handles with the suspension and rest of exhaust. Thanks for the input guys. Luke

Hey guys. Just in the process of gettin the new coilovers put in. Now before i get the comments about the coil overs not being suited to drag. I relise this. Not totally sure how to adjust settings. (other then the height). They are Jap spec Tein Super streets Generally the car will be set up for street/with a hint of circuit. But when it comes to getting the car on the track it will be 90% drag days over circuit days. As far as setting up the suspension to suit the drag days (as best as the equipment will let me). What should I be setting front and rear at to help traction. Working with a guesstimate of 180rwkw and stock wheels/tyres. Should i only need wheel alignments for height adjustments or would i need them for any adjustment? (Once i get new wheels id be looking at getting slicks for the stockies to help traction out) But that will be a while away. cheers for any guidance. Luke

Only 2 events to go now are the 2 700 performance points races. I have tryed the mines 34, the R35 and a range of Ferraris and i just cant find anything with enough oomph to get me at the front. grrr. And hmm. the more i play the game the more i find nothing is competing with the R35 and the Mines. Just got enough coin for the F40 and i must say, im slightly disapointed with the price tag to performance ratio. The R35 still kicks it (not that GTR domination is a bad thing). And regarding the Integra type R, for something that isnt that quick i find it one of my fav cars i think the sound of it helps though. Just need to find a way to win those damn 700 point races. Luke

It isn't full lock or nothing as you odviously have adjustments in the stick on the controller. Certainly not as precise as a wheel though. But still. If your smooth you can usually save it. Still. Im thinking the game could be great. But i just cant enjoy the fact that to go faster you need a new vehicle. The only thing that really keeps me interested in racing games these days is tweaking settings trying to lap faster. Bring on an accurately detailed tuning section. p.s. The new Gtr feels odd. it feels slow in the game, it feels like it needs the rev limiter set about 1000rpm higher, and it handles wierd. Yet it still seems to set decent lap times. Luke

I used to have one in my old lancer. I assume it'll be exactly the same. Should be a 2 stage shift light? yellow inner led red outer ring leds. 2 buttons on top of the unit. Rev to HALF the desired shift point for stage one and hit one of the buttons (cant remember which one is red and which does yellow) either way when you hit it the lights you changed will light up. Then do exactly the same step with the other button except odviously you'll want the red lights to be marginally higher (maybe 500 rpm total therefore about 250 rpm higher when you hit the other button). For example if you want your yellows to come on at 6000 rpm and reds at 6500. Rev car to 3000 then hit first button (prolly button closest to you), then let the revs up to 3250 and hit the other button. Assuming its wired correctly. Gizzmo set. Luke

Hey guys. just a quick question. Whilst you have a fair bit of gear taken out of the car, i.e intake pipework, intercooler piping, bov return piping etc. and you know theres a little bit of "foreign material (i.e metal flakes and dust from polishing and not being careful enough to seal up the ends). What methods/products would you use to get all the junk out. Cant use a cloth odviously as it will leave more stuff behind. Maybe a degreaser but still need to flush the pipework. Maybe an air compressor but with the slight oily layer inside some may stick and not clear out. Maybe water but not sure it may cause corrosion down the track. You should see where im coming from. Anybody got any thoughts/ suggestions. Currently the cars in bits but most of the polishing/painting is done and i dont want to reassemble until im 105% confident i wont have bits of metal flying into the turbo. (As you do) Cheers for any help. Luke

If its anything like my dads falcon ute stocko brakes (no comparisn i relise) It gets the same problem whenever you brake really hard from over 100km/h it gets the shudders and needs machining. Now i could be wrong but to my knowledge at least in that particular case i think its soft brake rotors warping due to heat. Perhaps that could be the cause in your case that the brake cooling was insufficient causing the rotors to warp?? im sure theres more experienced people to comment then me though. Luke

Hey guys. Looking for a set of coilovers for the 96 S2 R33 Gts-t. Been searching for a bit now and from what I can tell these seem to be the go for what everybody is recommending. The car is used 99% for Street (A weekend car only now. Not a daily driver.) I am looking for an improvement to cornering ability and i want adjustable height. Might use the car for the very occasional circuit day in the future, but as it stands the cars track work is mostly used on the dragstrip (Heathcote is the closest venue for anything hence why it'll see the strip more then circuit). So i guess the question that ive been unable to find. Ive read/heard most coilovers are not that good for the strip compared to stock suspension (im talking stock turbo so under 200kw atw for my setup). Will the Tein Superstreets still be relatively suitable for the strip even though my main performance interests are based around the twisties. The other quick question from what i can see people are saying dont bother with the tops for the teins. Not to sure why though. Just wondering if someone could comment why? Considering $170ish different in price is fairly negligable. Cheers for any help. Luke

hmm make a skyline ugly. - 95% of the time Chromies look terrible. Change that to ANY NON-Jap Rims - Bodykits that increase the overall height of the car (from bottom of panels to roof) without increasing the width. (infact. most aftermarket kits for skylines dont really grab me) - T wing spoilers, unless we are talking about a fairly serious time attack Skyline. - Vinyl Graphics / Airbrushing - Too low. i.e dumped on its guts. (starts to lose the performance look imo) - My basic conclusion. Every car has its strengths and weaknesses. And Skylines are not made to be "pretty". There body shape to me (and im sure lots of people will agree) is best suited for a tough "race" look. Luke.

Another Bendigo here. Theres quite a few lines going around here now. Most look pretty stock though. Dont see that many "hard-tuned" lookin ones on the road. Mostly R32 gts-t's and S1+S2 R33 gts-t's.

My opinion of it. Is "wannabe" cars. Where the modifications attempt to make the car into something else. i.e gts's with gtr kits and badging. Fake Evo kits, Type R badging. Shopping lists, T- Wing spoilers on cars that never see the track, bonnet scoops that lead to nothing (dont assist cooling/intake), chrome hubcaps, exterior neon/led lighting on a car that ever see's a carshow, fake brakes, Atmo BOV's on non extreme cars, etc. Every modified car is different, some look cheap and tacky with there exterior mods (rice) some look awesome (my opinion saying that these become not rice and reaching into other catergories in the car scene.) luke

Ive done mine (well. got it all prepped for final polish) without taking the covers off apart. I just took taken off the coilpack cover, and all hoses/pipes etc that are in the road. then used wet sandpaper carefully to avoid any dust and stuff forming which could float off into unwanted places . After i had sanded back a section i wiped it clean. It came up pretty good. No photos just yet though won't have any till the local Australia day show and shine. But yeah. Doing it without pulling off is possible. Just be wary of rubbish that you polish off getting into nooks and crannys Luke...

Basically. used the sanding wheels until all the rough stuff was gone. then jumped to a couple of different sandpapers (using wet), upto 800. upto where i am now. No visible scuff marks/unevenness. After playing around with the polish it looks like its gonna finish up well. except that i cant seem to get true polished look because of all the black "gaul" as you put it. Trying to get it ready for a show and shine on Aus day. At this stage the crossover pipe, and rocker covers, turbo heat shield (this came up pretty good) are done to what my opinion is the final buff and shine stage with the polish. Hmm. A couple of weeks to go. Totally not gonna be ready in time. haha

Awesome that sounds fairly simple now ive got my path through the firewall. Can anyone confirm which wire i need to tap into off the manifold. Unless theres a simpler way.

Hey guys. Just a quick one. In the process of tidying/ polishing the engine bay. Inc Plemum, crossover pipe, rocker covers, brackets. etc etc etc. I have most of it all sanded back ready to polish. Using a meguires (sp?) metal polish. (This is the first time ive ever really tried bring metal to a shine. so newb here) When I attack it with the polish heaps of black is coming off. Now i relise this is normal. But if i keep rubbing, add more polish, keep rubbing etc etc etc. Does the black ever STOP coming off. i.e once you reach a good shine. Ive spent a couple of hours on the crossover pipe and it just seems that there is No end as everytime i hit it with more polish all the black comes back. haha im sure that makes sence. Just after the experienced opinion of someone as to the most effective way of getting that final stage of actually bringing out the mirror finish (odviously im using rags and a metal polish). Cheers for any help Luke...

Hey guys. Just a quick question. Just put an AF guage and Oil Temp in the car (I know most people dont like narrowband AF guages) but meh. All the power wires are connected. Just need to connect the Sender wire on the AF. I believe i need to plug this into the ecu. (btw 1996 S2 R33 gts-t). Does anyone have a picture of how it is connected and exactly what it needs to be connected to?? or is there another wire that i can tap into??? A photo would be great. as they say. a picture is worth a 1000 words. Cheers for any help. Luke...

Hey Guys. Just started doing my cross over pipe today (using a sanding wheel on a dremmel). planning to get it all to a pre polish stage until i get a work vehicle next year. Then buff it all up at the same time. Plans are to polish cross over pipe, rocket covers, Plenum, Turbo heat shield, brackets in that area. All the rest of the bay planning to paint or put covers over. Quick question. What is the easiest/quickest way of getting around the nipples / grooves / gaps in all the different bits?? Are people finding it easiest by hand on the tight bits? or would there be a tool/ dremmel attachment that would be quicker and more effective???? Luke...

5 cars... 1. Stock R35 GTR. (Silver) 2. 400kw circuit tuned R32 GTR. (No pref of color. But paint on top of Carbon panels) 3. Lamborghini Countach 25th Aniversary (black) 4. Ferrari F430 Convertable (Red naturally) 5. SS Crewman ute (Daily driver as well as tow car and car part transport).