PM-R33

So R34 GTT brake lines were used?

All good, my settings seemed to have done the job

Ah ok cool. It appears the logic is the same behind both of our setups so should be sweet I'll go upload it into the car now.

Ok I just looked at mine and when I set it to "Cam Solenoid" I still have the same options as I did previously. There is no option for Frequency, Cam Type or Polarity like on yours Maybe we have different versions or something, mine is 4.5.2.601 that the same as yours?

Hmmm how does the frequency 200Hz effect things? Since the VCT just operates "on" or "off" is that needed? Damnit you have confused me with your settings now Thanks for the quick reply though!

Hey guys I setup my Vipec yesterday and got the car running. Very impressed with how easy/little there is to do to get the car drivable. Just got a quick question regarding the VCT setup for the RB25. I noticed it doesn't come presetup and you have to do it yourself. I quickly checked the pinouts and it appears Aux 1 is wired in to the VCT solenoid. I looked through all the settings and set it up as in the following picture. It seems correct to me but I thought I would just double check to ensure it is right. I wasn't 100% sure on what to set the SwOff Timer? Is this all good? Not really too fussed about the RPM points at this time, I will sort that out during tuning. Cheers Phil

Yeah I might be keen. Vipec Base Map FTW

Depends what you mean by effect the ABS. It will in the sense of disabling it. Same as holding your foot on the brake and lighting up the rears. The speed signal sensors will detect the rear wheels spinning a lot faster than the fronts and the ABS will try and unlock the front wheels (you will feel it in the pedal). However the ABS won't be able to unlock them and instead will give up and throw up an error code on the dash (ABS light). This means your ABS won't function until it is reset; normally just turning the car on and off. Don't see why a line locker kit would overcome this in anyway. It really aint that big of a deal unless you have an A-LSD like me that is wired in through the wheel speed signal sensors and ABS and if the ABS gets a fault the diff stops functioning and open wheels If you mean damage the actual unit than no it shouldn't.

Yeah brand new ones are $3000+ to get here in Aus. Grab those for $1750, sell them to some one in Aus for $2500 and then with the profits buy a set for yourself at half the price!

Spend every day on Yahoo auctions and try and get some S3 Xenon lights for a good price, it really needs them now!

My mate just installed a pair of these on his Supra not long ago, appear to be the same ones as yours and they look fantastic. What exact brand are your ones? Was thinking I might get some down the track..

Lol. That is what he means: Also Marc the A-LSD's are still 4.11

RB20 vs RB25 thread here we come!

See how on the Link GUI the gauges are in a blue background colour, is that just the Link GUI that has that and not the Vipec? So there is some differences between the two softwares?

Any car is fine. Let me know what model.

You were NOT ment to unplug the ECU in the boot. You failed to mention that you didn't have power steering prior to the lock bar install...

Unfortunately not, sorry man. LATEST LIST 1. SKINS - R33 GTST 2. ARTHUR T3 - R33 GTST 3. XKLABA - R32 GTR 4. HIBINO - R32 GTST 5. JEBUD - R32 GTST 6. 33 DRIVER - R33 GTST 7. GIMPSR34 - R34 GTT 8. LOOKINGFORBOOST - R33 GTST 9. MR JOLLWAH - R33 GTST 10. SALAD - R32 GTST 11. NA BEAST - R33 GTST 12. SHOEI - R33 GTST 13. ASTROBOY - R33 GTST 14. COWBOY 1600 - R33 GTST 15. 94R32GTRU - R32 GTR Half way there folks, going good. Put your name down quick guys because I think by the end of this weekend this might be all over the way this is going again.

Didn't you like the CR Kai's?

Very nice! Looks a lot better IMO.

http://gizzmousa.com/knock-monitor.html

That's a negative ghost rider.

Seems we have our first ten then, pretty good for one bloody day lol. 1. SKINS - R33 GTST 2. ARTHUR T3 - R33 GTST 3. XKLABA - R32 GTR 4. HIBINO - R32 GTST 5. JEBUD - R32 GTST 6. 33 DRIVER - R33 GTST 7. GIMPSR34 - R34 GTT 8. LOOKINGFORBOOST - R33 GTST 9. MR JOLLWAH - R33 GTST 10. SALAD - R32 GTST Just check that I wrote the correct car kit. (R32/R33 GTST is the same kit and R32/R33 GTR is the same kit). Twenty more places to go guys.

The factory cooler is more than adequate for a stock GTR. An aftermarket ECU will give you the best bang for buck if power is what you are after, however the $1000 won't really get you there.

I'd recommend bleeding everything again and then taking it for a drive in the dry and seeing how you go. Like I said before mine felt weird due to having air trapped somewhere. Honestly it shouldn't feel to much different unless the factory lines were on their way out.

Lol I was waiting for some one to ask that. I will do a clutch line group buy as soon as I get some spare cash to get one myself. At the moment I can't justify it (says while missus is standing over shoulder). The clutch line group buy might be a smaller batch though, maybe 10 or something. I will let you guys know via PM once I open that one up. It will most likely be clear unless the majority want something else. Last time we all pretty much agreed on clear. With the clear PVC tubing the braided line is visible inside of it and the PVC coating is almost invisible. If you have a colour over it, the braided line is not really visible. Have a look at my DIY to see what they look like with the clear PVC tubing, it looks the best IMO.