PM-R33

Wait what?! He has a miniture turbine on his wedding ring? Am I reading that right? lol

Lol who the hell told you that?

What made you think it was a Ross then? Did some one sell you one saying it was a Ross?

A ross balancer looks nothing like the stock one.

Only one of those Motul bottles for the entire system. Still had some remaining.

Wow very nice job. Looking forward to seeing completed pics.

Exactly. If there was no resistance from friction (tyres, wind etc) a car will reach a theoretical top speed which is a calculation of the engine RPM, 5th/6th gear ratio, diff ratio and wheel/tyre size. The car's power is simply needed to overcome the friction resistance to reach the theoretical top speed. Therefore if a car with 400hp can reach the theoretical top speed adding another 200hp won't do jack for it's top speed. From memory a R32 GTR on standard gearing in 5th must rev over 8000rpm to crack a true 300km/h (remember the speedo will not be accurate at those speeds). Since the R34 GTR has a sixth gear with a similar ratio as a R32 GTR fifth gear (0.79:1 compared to 0.75:1) but has a final drive ratio of 3.55:1 compared to 4.11:1 it will reach a higher theoretical top speed. Also the fact a R34 GTR can rev higher in stock form than a R32 GTR adds to the higher top speed.

Agreed. Something is better than nothing for people that aren't as "blessed" to get the good shit

I just got the missus to hold the brake pedal 3/4 down, cracked one of the lines and let the fluid come out a bit (have a rag handy as it goes everywhere since it aint a proper bleed nipple) and then closed it off before the brake pedal went down to the ground. So really just a quick crack open and then close. Repeat that a few times. Did that to all the lines; two coming out from the master cylinder, two going into the ABS and the three coming out of the ABS. Aint perfect but meh. Make sure you use one of those flare spanners though so you don't round the nuts. The pedal is back to being normal and not as soft as it was. It still aint as stiff as I would like it but maybe it is just a Skyline thing, I dunno. I felt my mates non ABS model R33 tonight and his was softer than mine so its strange. I would love to get the pedal to be stiff as hell like our Mazda 3 but I don't really understand why the Skyline pedal is so soft. Have a read of this, I just posted this link into the group buy thread. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylin...adjustment.html Could this be done to adjust the pedal softness?

No worries man, glad it rocked up to you. Wasn't sure how long it would take to PNG. I got them back to normal, bled the lines coming in and out of the ABS unit and bled the lines coming out of the master cylinder. There must have a been some air trapped somewhere. All good now I felt a mates brakes tonight (non ABS GTST) and his pedal is a lot softer than mine. I did notice one thing when I pulled my master cylinder off to inspect it, is the pushrod that comes out of the brake booster into the master cylinder adjustable? It has a thread on it and kind of looks like you can shorten/lengthen it. If you could lengthen it maybe you could get rid of that initial softness of the brake pedal. Any one got any input into that? I just really would love to get the brake pedal to feel still like other modern cars I have felt. The initial softness must come from the pushrod in the brake booster having a large gap infront of it prior to making a force on the master cylinder no? EDIT:BINGO! Found what I was talking about. Read this, could this be the way to overcome the soft Skyline pedal? http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylin...adjustment.html

I got them back to normal, bled the lines coming in and out of the ABS unit and bled the lines coming out of the master cylinder. There must have a been some air trapped somewhere. All good now

Hmm ok so I saw one place and they were like yep air in the ABS can be the cause and should be bled and then another place said there is no way air could be trapped in the ABS to cause a soft pedal so I dunno I might just crack the ABS lines open and try and bleed it manually to see if any air comes out. I don't get why Skyline brakes are so soft. I nearly go through the windscreen every time I brake in the girlfriends Mazda 3 due to the brake pedal being so responsive to the slightest touch.

You can still install everything yourself, the car still brakes fine. Also every car may be different and maybe you won't get as much air into the ABS. I did a bit of quick reading on the net and a lot of modern ABS equipped cars need an ABS scan tool used to cycle the ABS solenoids to bleed the air or some shit. R32's have bleed nipples on the ABS which makes it easy, ours don't unfortunately and judging by the amount of threads on "spongy brake pedal" i'm assuming a lot of people don't get the ABS bled. I'm going to call a couple of places during the week, every dealership (Nissan) or brake specialist should be able to bleed the ABS so i'll see how I go. Qoute I found:

Yep Dot3 is the standard and anything above is just a higher boiling point. Just a heads up for guys with ABS equipped R33/R34's. I just posted this up in the DIY thread regarding a small problem.

So I took the car for a spin and the brake pedal feel is soft as hell lol. As in there is about half of the pedal travel doing nothing. I bled the system again and there is no air in the brake lines themselves, however my car has ABS and on the R33s (unlike the R32s) there are no bleed screws on the ABS module. My understanding with this is a special ABS scan tool is required to properly bleed the ABS so I will go see some one this week to try and get the ABS bled properly. This is a very common problem with R33/R34's that have ABS and there appears to be hundreds of threads on very soft brake pedals. So I'm assuming it's because people get air into the ABS unit and then never bleed it properly. Will report back on this to see how it goes after the ABS bleed.

Lol your kidding right? An Aus spec NA 300ZX 5 speed when new was rated at high 15/low 16 second quarters.

Unfortunately one video on Youtube doesn't mean much. Most stock NA Skylines do 16+ second quarters and like I said most stock GTST's do high 14's low 15's. The driver in a manual Skyline plays a big role.

Love that front bar! You are obviously keeping it raw and not painting it?

But he has a stock car and is just getting rid of the low/high boost thing the R33 does and just making it run the high boost all the time. The stock gauge is fine for this, it reads up to 1 bar (it reads is mm/mg). Yes the stock gauge aint the best, but for him to see if it is running 7psi-10psi it will do the job fine for the current situation he is asking about.

What is wrong with your factory boost guage? For what you want it is more than adequate.

That sounds like a decent amount of oil to fill a damn 600ml catch can in 8 weeks of driving on the street.... My car gets maybe 1mm of oil in the bottom of the catch can every time I service it which is around 6 months no matter how hard I drive it including mountain runs sitting at high RPM for 8 minutes up and down. Curious to see what other people say

What's wrong with it Rob?

Can I have a prize?

Your car was similar to what mine was when I first bought it. I was still in high school so my budget wasn't huge like yourself but there were a couple of things I did that in my opinion improved the look slightly: Remove the rear GTS25T sticker - Free Remove the weathershields on the windows - Free Cut off the brackets underneath the rear number plate that dangle down - Free Paint your brake calipers - $30-$50 Get some tint done - $300ish Get some coilovers or lowered springs and shocks and lower it slightly - $1000-$2000 Realisticly thats about all you can do unless you wanted to change the bodykit or wheels to something diferent, but in my opinion the way your car looks now with the kit and wheels looks pretty good. Or another thing you could do which would make the car look nicer and give you a good starting point performance wise is to fit a nice front mount intercooler. This was my favourite mod back in the day and made the car look a lot more aggressive from the front. (If you already have one then don't worry, I just couldn't see it in the pictures).

If this thread is even remotely true than the simple answer is this: Your cat collapsed, hence the exhaust temp light came on, which in turn built up a f**k load of back pressure in the exhaust at such a high rpm, which made you lose power and your exhaust to glow so red. Either way this thread is halarious and the fact you argued about doing such a high speed after saying you were doing 6k in 5th is even funnier. I really do hope this thread was a joke.