PM-R33

Ohhh looking forward to this

Umm I might still have them, ill have a look. If not they are just normal little bolts, I actually replaced mine with stainless steel allen key ones so they wouldn't rust. Anyway I'll let you know if I have the old bolts and I'll throw them in. Ill find out postage cost and get back to you. Cheers.

Yeah thats no worries. I'll find out the postage price and let you know.

Step 1. Sell car. Step 2. Save a little bit more money. Step 3. Buy R34 GTR for low $40k. This is assuming you have $30,000 sitting there since that is what you are making it sound like. If you actually don't have any money sitting there than you can not say you are planning on spending $30,000 on it since you do not have that kind of money. In that case: Step 1. Full exhaust upgrade. Step 2. Front mount intercooler. Step 3. Aftermarket ECU. Step 4. Fuel pump. Step 5. Turbo upgrade. Step 6. Injectors and boost controller depending on what kind of power you want to make and Splitfire coil packs if yours aren't up to the job.

Just trying to tidy up my cupboard/garage. Bunch of random things here and there. I'll try to add pictures to most things, the other things are fairly self explanatory so won't bother but if you really want pictures let me know. All prices don't include freight so add that ontop of it. Send me your postcode and i'll try to give a rough freight charge. Righteo here we go: My old RB25 covers. Both cam covers and valley cover. Painted in Lamborghini Blue Pearl Metallic (I have the paint code if you want to repaint some of it). Also features a RB25 badge in the centre. Pretty good condition, some of the paint is a bit scratched/chipped off. Probably would be due for a repaint if you were picky, if not they still look pretty decent. Also has both right angle fittings in the covers (from factory the right one is a three way fitting). Here's what they looked like on the car. Chasing $80 for them. Series 1 front indcators. Perfect condition, no cracks or damage. Could pass them off as new. Chasing $20 for them. This is an attatchment trumpet for the older type Blitz BOV's. Changes the noise of the BOV. Chasing $10 for it. A Swedish DLS 12" W312B 150WRMS (250W peak) sub. Original RRP was $249 (still has sticker on it). Nice crisp European sound to it. Was used for a short period of time (few months) but no longer wanted a subwoofer in the boot. Basically new. Chasing $70 for it. Also have a protective DLS grill for it for an extra $10 if you want. Will take picture if you require. Stock RB25 exhaust manifold heatshield painted in flameproof silver paint. Good for people that no longer have one on their car and want to get underbonnet temperatures down or to cover up the ugly looking rusted stock manifold. Chasing $20 for it. Stock RB25 turbocharger oil and water fittings including oil return. Chasing $10 for them. Stock RB25 plenum that has been bead blasted to new condition. Perfect for some one wanting to polish up the plenum and simply swapping it over once it is done. Note the plenum has been cut out from another photo with a bunch of different parts that I sold ages ago, hence the funny cutting around the picture. Chasing $30 for it. Full 5 piece set of factory R33 Series II floormats. Good condition, rear is practically brand new since I didn't like having rear passengers. Will take photo if needed. Chasing $60 for them. Stock R33 RB25 oil cap and radiator cap. Chasing $5 each. Also have a bunch of alarms if some one is interested i'll post them up with pictures. Price range from $50-$200. That's all I can think of at the moment, i'll probably add some more stuff later. Cheers Phil

Hahaha. If I do the next group buy for the clutch lines i'll try to sort something out as compensation for us waiting 10 years to receive these bloody brake lines.

Looking good man. Exhaust looks great!

The problem is definetely in the wastegate staying open and not letting the turbo build boost. So the wastegate vacuum line is being split to go to the compressor housing niple AND the intake manifold?? Why is it being split to run to both? Why is it not just being run from wastegate to compressor housing? Easy way to test it, disconnect the vacuum line from the wastegate and plug the lines up so there isn't a vacuum leak and take it for a carefully drive to see if it starts to build boost. If it doesn't you know the wastegate is screwed and staying open, it it starts building boost you know its simply a vacuum line problem. However back of as soon as it builds boost as with the wastegate shut it will run maximum boost possible.

You can just get them through Nissan, wouldn't see it being more than $10-$20. It's a pretty boring looking sticker and most people take it off though. Personal choice though.

Gorgeous photos. I'm amazed it hasn't been sold yet.

Are you talking about the stock sticker on the boot?

Very nice man, i like

Cats can break apart and rattle if they are ceramic style cat like the stock ones. After market metal ones usually just collapse and weld them selves together from the heat. Symptoms usually are a different exhaust note (if you can notice it) and a loss in power (depending on how collapsed it is). Really only way to be sure is pulling it off and having a look.

Always remember when reading weights off of the internet is that you don't know whether it includes all fluids, spare wheel and accessories and what factory options it may have (sunroof, dual airbags, ABS, etc.) as all the running fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant etc) in the vehicle can add 20-30kg. Than a full tank of fuel can add 50-70kg, suddenly you have a car that weighs 100kg more than what is written on the internet just in fluids. I weighed my car (R33 GTST SII) on a weigh bridge with me in the car and half a tank of fuel and it was 1500kg. So take away my weight and the half a tank of fuel and your looking at around 1400kg with all running fluids (minus fuel) for my R33. My car has ABS, dual airbags and an A-LSD so has a lot of extra weight compared to a R33 without these things. Has a few things lighter than factory items and a few things removed, but it would probably be offseted from all the modifications added to it. Vehicle weights are hard to get accurate unless weighing the particular car as some mods save weight (carbon panels, lighter wheels, lighter exhaust) and a lot of others add weight (coilovers, speakers, intercoolers, bodykits etc). So always use what you read as a guide and think about all the variables. I would love a database on this website with a lot of items weighed accurately so people can add/subtract things to get a better idea of weights.

Surely the 290kw is a typo right? You mean 190rwkw?

Sorry I should have made myself a bit clearer. A GTR seat is around 4-6kg lighter than a GTST seat. Therefore combined, replacing both seats it works out to be a total saving of around 10kg. This is only from me weighing my GTST seats and then reading the weight of the GTR seats so it is not 100% accurate but good enough. The drivers seat in the R33 GTST is a bit heavier than the passenger seat (this was on a series II, assuming a series I would be the same).

I weighed my seats and read the weight of the GTR seats somewhere on these forums and I remember it being a 4-6kg per seat difference. Therefore GTR seats with rails were 10kg light than GTST seats with rails.

Got an email yesterday saying any day now they should be getting sent and that they apologise for all this and are really embarassed by the whole situation.

Looks very good man, especially for a DIY.

In theory a perfectly balanced and setup RWD (something like an M3) should outperform an AWD on a circuit. However it aint always the case.

Yes you will need a slight retune. You have completely changed the characteristics of the engine.

Plenty of threads about HICAS, just search and start reading. In a modified car that gets driven hard it causes a bit of unpredictability that most people don't like. Not to mention in a R32 you get rid of a heap of weight.

Go to any automotive store (Repco, Autobarn, Super Cheap Auto etc) and just get a length of vacuum hose that fits the nipple size on the blow off valve. Simple as that.

Cheers. I triple checked and tested everything and it seems to be correct at 3.2ish volts on WOT.

I have a little LED wired into the dash to let me know when they are on, pretty easy to wire up so I would definetely recommend doing something along those lines. I used to accidentally leave them on all the time before the new "Laws" came out about them not being able to be used