Beer Baron

for sure. my old track GTR with 270rwkw was about the same lap time wise at eastern creek as my other grey R32 with 330awkw. the first car had full cage, well set-up ohlins (the same ones I lent giant), lots of time spent on alignment, adustable arms, swaybars etc. it has a fairly stock motor pushing out a super reliable 276kw atw, very easy to drive without massive power on oversteer, good LSD, AWD sorted etc. the other car had much less suspension development and much more power but was not faster and used it's brakes pretty hard. there is a sweet spot with GTRs that you get to and the smart men leave it at that. the rest of us keep pushing for more (me included). I reckon for circuit fun in an R32: upgrade fuel pump (nismo drop in - worth spending on this as it's literally the heart of the car pumping the blood around) power FC (used, $800) plenty of time spent tuning (both dyno and road if possible) either standard turbos at 1bar, or GTSS/garret equivalents run up to 16psi Big oil cooler (the jap ones are excellent but a bit pricey, the chinese ones are shit, for a mid budget option go with mocal or earls and piece together your own kit) leave stock intercooler and radiator (changing the intercooler robs the rad of air and means you end up with water temp problems. the stock intercooler is fine for 300kw) do a hard pipe kit (doesn't have to be the full suction kit, just the one that replaces the main rubber cooler hoses, about $400 second hand for a trust kit) leave stock BOVs get a good EBC, trust profec B II will be fine for a car of this level and cheap. get your injectors cleaned and flowed (as long as they are in good shape their 440cc/min is enough for what you are after) keep the stock AFMs (like the injectors they'll be maxed but that's fine at this level of power) get a good exhaust. doesn't have to be titanium. I've had stainless, titanium, and mild and actually my favourite of the lot was a V-band mild steel system, for track use ditch the cat set of 17X9 +20 wheels and some 235-255 semi slicks or slicks, or 18s if you really want but 32s work well on 17s (the downside is they restrict brake options and tyre choices) for brakes rebuild your stock calipers, get some brackets made so you can fit some 340mm rotors on the front or even stick with stock 296mm but get new ones and good pads suited to the use of the car ditch all the interior bar the drivers seat I believe in spending money on a good seat and a good harness (it's your safety) mount battery on passenger side floor just in front of where the rear seat used to be now the expensive stuff. some good shocks and springs. custom bilstein set-up, Tein RA or RS, nismo R-tune or Ohlins Flag R are about the best gear under $8K (and some are well under). or look at some MCA/proflex get the arms you need. spend up and do them right first time. Ikeya Formula for all the ones they make, and UAS or noltec for front upper control arms (or even better cut and shut stock arms once you know your length). swaybars. whiteline bars are ok on a budget (and cheap second hand, it's not like they wear out...) but the ARC bars are best. in between are cusco which are not bad but non adjustable but well priced you'll also need a good clutch. OS Giken twin plates are cheap to buy and rebuild and reliable. if you want to spend some money on a sump extension but you should be ok without it at this power level. instead get some good guages preferably with warning buzzers/lights and record function so you can monitor oil surge. Spend some time learning about suspension alignment and set-up. it's important. buy a radiator header tank system. about $400 for the ARC one which is good and in my eyes I would do that BEFORE a radiator. don't buy a shiny china radiator. have a look how many people fitted one only to realise they performed worse than the stock 20mm core... that's about it off the top of my head. everything power wise will be maxed and it's a good balance for the handling/braking/power of the car. it will be reliable and fun and as your driving improves so will your set-up skills and your lap times. nothing on the list is super expensive and the good thing is it can all be done piece by piece.

would kill for the RS200 but agree with marlin. the dream is almost certainly better than the reality... that goes double for the renault!

do not tease me with pics like that. no kidding they are one of my favourite cars on the planet. much love for them since the group B days of the 80s. *sigh. would love one as a fun road car.

yeah mine says archive too? what's the deal? I'm assuming they just 'archive' to the trash can.

Now we are cooking. I will sort out payment details etc tomorrow and then we can start getting the first batch out. Personal delivery for Nismoid is on the cards for sure. just need to figure out where I parked my helicopter. or if I even had a helicopter in the first place. for the guys who want a copy (or 2) just post up and please put where you want the thing posted (just state and post code for now). Thanks.

no worries. I have not even seen it myself yet but I've been told it's amazing. There was certainly no shortage of stuff worth shooting that's for sure. honestly it will be worth it just for the pro-class in-car footage.

aside from lack of aus support the fcon-v pro are quote good. make sure you know what you are buying though as you said f-con V which is rubbish. you want f-con V PRO.

Hi guys, I am running a group buy for the official Yokohama World Time Attack Challenge DVDs. For those who have been under a rock this last year the World Time Attack Challenge was run earlier this year at Eastern Creek in Sydney. It attracted big name entries from around Australia and around the world. It is considered one of the top time attack style events in the world up there with the best of the Japanese and American events. It included entries from Cyber Evo (long time fastest Japanese Time Attack Car), Panspeed (one of the fastest FD RX7s in Japan), Tomei/Cusco Team Tarzan WRX, Sierra Sierra EVO, R Magic RX7, Yokohama/Hi Octane/RGM R34 GTR, BSM R32 GTR, Yokohama/HOR/RGM R32 GTR and many, many other top competitors from all over Australia. The event was without doubt the biggest and best Japanese Tuner focussed event ever seen in Australia. Now available from Hi Octane is a comprehensive DVD of the event: The DVD blurb from their site: "The world's fastest time attack machines and drivers converged on Eastern Creek Raceway in Sydney, Australia for the 2010 Yokohama Advan World Time Attack Challenge. Four teams from Japan and one from the US took on the top Pro Class time attack cars in Australia over 2 days. Over 100 highly modified cars also fought it out in the Open cna Clubsprint Classes, along with Australia's best drifters and two D1 drivers from Japan, also battled it out in the Tectaloy Drift Challenge. This DVD covers all the action from the two day event, with behind the scenes interviews, a closer look at all the Pro Class cars, pit reports, on-board camera's galore, including in every Pro Class car, and the best action from multiple cameras around the track!" This DVD is worth buying for the in-car footage alone! Anyway, I am travelling overseas next month and wanted to take a number of copies as gifts for friends of mine in Japan who were involved in the event. I approached Ian at Hi Octane about a possible group buy and he is keen to get on board. So if we can get a decent number of orders up price will drop from $34 retail (currently $30 on discount) down to $25 including free shipping around Australia. Just to be clear. This group buy will run until Friday 22 October 2010 The supplier is Hi Octane Racing Price is $25 inc postage around Australia You are very camp if you don't buy one. Personally I am super macho and am buying 12 copies! Post your interest here along with where you need it posted too and how many copies you want. They make great christmas presents for your mum or girlfriend. Hell get her two copies for when she wears the first one out... ORDERS: Beer Baron - Sydney (10 copies) Hibino - Brisbane 4013 MAD Automotive - SA PM-R33 - Townsville QLD 4814 30three - NSW 2259 Doobs - NSW 2578 woolls - TAS 7030 drag-on silvia - ??? N1GTR - Sydney 2221 R31Nismoid - Melbourne hand delivery job 3066 Piggaz - Sydney pistol-pete - Adelaide 5073 (2 copies) MLR - sydney 2173 4admrn - sydney kellyville 2155 Juan_2_3 -VIC 3030 Kisuu_Buta - QLD 4069

no you can't do your own. and no you don't need a dealers licence to do compliance. a dealers licence is to sell cars. to be a compliance workshop you must have ISO certification first and you need to apply through DOTARS to become a RAW (Registered Automotive Workshop).

anyone looking for a good turbo set-up for your street/track/drag GTR then look no further. these are THE number 1 set-up for a multi-purpose GTR. they are the best compromise between quality/cost/response/outright power. nothing else comes close over all those areas.

have been super slack getting pics (been moving house and had no time) but I should be able to take some tonight. hold tight!

these are now sold guys.

have just moved house over the weekend and really keen to sell now. it's getting hard to manage all the toys.

well the problem is they can't know exactly how long it takes. they are just guessing based off their experience in the past. so they know 'usually' it takes 1 week or so, but sometimes it takes longer. they have to wait just like you. nothing they can really do. my advice, leave them alone for a few days. maybe give them a call next monday if you don't hear anything by then.

hi mate. buying cars is not usually a group buy kind of deal. it's unlikely anyone will want to take advantage of this 'offer'. i know you are excited but my advice is be careful. anyone offering you discount to buy more cars smells a bit funny to me.

I don't think time varies based on the workshop. the time varies based on workload of the various people involved in the process. so that includes your workshop, DOTARS, the engineer signing off on it and even the people who print and distribute the physical compliance plates (well stickers now). don't stress. 15 days is a little long but it's not out of the realm of possibility. Calling the workshop won't achieve anything other than pissing them off so my advice is sit back and wait for them to call you. don't worry it's not like they are going to have it arrive and then just sit on it for days before calling. they will let you know as soon as they get it. after all the quicker it gets done the quicker they get paid. i know every day seems like a week but you will quickly forget about it once you have the car.

stick with the 255s on the 9.5 I say.

lol. hope he appeals at least for 'time to pay' and pays it off at $5 per month for 100 months.

hey guys, sorry for lack of response. I'm moving house at the moment and have now shut off the phone/net at the old place and of course they still haven't connected the new place. so pls bear with me over the next few days while it gets sorted. anyway the sard injectors are $700. which ever of you guys is still after them just send me a pm. ps. yes they will fit a standard R32 GTR fuel rail. in fact they will fit any model GTR fuel rail. will not fit GTST. I also have a sard fuel rail to go with them. also brand new and allows you to run it dual feed (feed at each end of the rail and the fuel reg in the middle, much more even pressure distribution).

Hey Charlie, the pantec is about 4 meters long and 1.85m wide, ceiling heigt inside is 1.75m. Length overall is 5.4m and height overall is 2.4m.

spot on. very hard to get GTRs to achieve good corner speed. they romp down the straight, launch out of corners but mid corner is certainly their weakness. and most of that is lack of front end grip. once the AWD is sorted (rebuilt transfer) then you will really see the need for a front diff. I'd estimate 8 out of 10 R32 GTRs have an AWD system that is not functioning correctly. very easy to test. if you dial up 7,000rpm and launch it and the car leaves 4 black lines then it's working. if you get massive rear wheel spin then you have AWD problems (most likely stuffed transfer). like you said they end up with corner entry understeer and big mid corner push, and then massive corner exit oversteer. even worse with some decent power (350kw+). The first things you should be doing to any track GTR. rebuild transfer case check AWD function install front diff and sump baffles/extended sump at the same time (both require engine out) then start on suspension etc. a mild GTR with good awd and good LSDs can get around a track pretty quickly.

yep I thought the 8/9 was the pick too but I have heard from the smart people that the X is miles ahead. makes sense to me. glenney would know too he has driven enough emo to know which is the better base car. they are stupid quick with just basic mods.

here are what the R32 GTR R tune nismo stuff looks like. they are basically a rebadged ohlins Flag R. The spring rates are fairly high compared to what most guys use but with good dampers to control them they work very well. russ was very impressed with how they performed in his car. of course they have all the nice features, 50mm pistons, external resevoir, separate bump and rebound adjustment (30X20), all alloy shock casing for light weight, of course fully rebuild-able and customise-able with different shim stacks. in fact russ ran a PB on these at eastern creek earlier this year. and they are fairly well used by now.

depends. are you planning to brake around corners? the 1.5 way will lock under decell but on the track you should be braking in a straight line. if you are used to trailing a bit of brake at turn in then yes you may find you now have trouble turning in with the 1.5way. it just needs an adjustment in driving style. need to get your braking done in a straight line, square the corner up a bit and get on the power as soon as you are pointing straight(ish). with the front diff the car will absolutely launch out of corners but again with the front diff locking up it wont want to turn as much as it used to under full power. I would probably go with a 1way front if it worries you. 2 way or 1.5 way rear is fine. again you just need to adjust your driving style a bit but diffs in a track GTR are a good thing. no doubt about it.

yeah that thing looks to be well priced for the gear on it. forget painting it. just remove one turbo and use the money you get from it's sale to get a new single turbo manifold and just run the one big single. away you go. JHH do pretty good work as far as I know too.