Beer Baron

yeah roy, koyo rad is no problem if you need it mate. as for bobby, lol. who said polishing was integral to the engines performance? it's mentioned once in the whole thread and only because it's part of what they refer to as 'port and polish' the gains are in the port shape and size. polishing/not polishing is highly debatable some argue a rough surface helps more than a polished one. I think most people in the know agree that the mirror finish surface some go for is not ideal and as you can see is NOT what I have had done. arguing that japanese workshops who have been modifying GTRs for 20 years have no idea is just nuts. I mean Japanese built the GTR in the first place.... anyway, moving on. for comparison of what the money buys you here. Just Jap list the 34 N1 nur motors at $15,000 and at the moment cannot supply any. They are one of the reasonable retailers too. some places charge as high as $20K just for the base engine. mine has about $10K worth of mods on top of the base engine. more even. my price of $16,500 is pretty firm and I think more than reasonable. it's at least $10K off what it cost. look at it like this, if you bought a stock N1 Nur motor and had a sump extension done that would be over $1500 straight away which would mean $16,500 spent, and you'd still be short the full tomei gasket kit (with head 1.2mm head gasket), tomei cams, tomei valve springs, extensive head work, mines baffles, the centre coil-pack cover ($500 itself), timing belt, cam gears, pistons, the rings etc and all the labour and attention to detail that went into building it at prime, including porting the oil returns etc. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=334&page=1

looking good. thanks for sharing the pics. should be some very serious fun when the kit upgrade is finished.

agreed. while the literal translation says to change timing belt at 100,000kms what it says to any nihon-jin is "car will self destruct at +/- 10% of 100,000kms, dump car at auction now".

front bar looks mean!! love it.

they are the same bolt pattern as nardi wheels. there are only basically 2 types in the world of aftermarket road car wheels nardi type or momo type. all other wheels fall into one of those. most boss kits these days will fit both. they are both 6 bolt and just have a slightly different pcd and different pattern. the only other types are basically open wheeler or go kart wheels. the easy way to tell. if it has a bolt on the centre line above and below the horn button it's momo type. if it has no bolt on the centre line (like the key!s wheel) but instead has 2 bolts above and below the horn button then it's nardi type. i bought the KEY!S wheel in japan.

forgot to add one item, I have a full set of calliper rebuild kit for the front callipers and *may* have a rear kit too. It's the genuine nissan kit which includes new piston seals, circlips and dust boots. I had bought it before I got the callipers just in case but when they are arrived all where in excellent condition so I never did it, but the new buyer can have it and choose to refresh them or not. then you will have brand new project mu pads, brand new slotted rotors and brand new callipers, with titanium backing plates

you'll be fine on noise mate. and i've got you sorted for E85 no problem. definitely do it.

No worries. To answer your question yes I'll most likely be selling my R32 GTR (had it for 7 years) and my R33 GTR and possibly my S13 drifter too. There'll be threads soon in for sale (cars).

Pictures of the actual kit for sale. As you can see everything is brand new. it all packs back into one giant HKS box (not pictured). When you see how many parts are included it quickly becomes clear why it costs what it does. over the garret kit you get high performance wheel specs and HKS's own housing specs which most definitely are superior to the generic garret stuff as they are purposely designed for a high performance petrol application. You also get High quality, heavy duty, adjustable actuators which come pre-fitted to the turbo's and pre-set and balanced to save set-up time and cost. most garrett kits come without the actuators which have to be bought separately, then you have to pay the tuner to install and set them up properly (very important that they are set right). The kit also includes the gaskets you need and stuff like the new oil drain, the vacuum line, t piece, the studs and nuts etc. it's very comprehensive.

some pics of the other parts: sard fuel rail: in the bottom of this pic you can see the insulators/o-rings too. the sard 700cc injectors fit straight in. sard 700cc injectors, low impedance, and really good quick response time (0.65ms near standard, some other brand injectors are over 1.0ms) as you can see the good, genuine sard 700cc GTR injectors should be light blue. just like these are. all still in SEALED packages. Koyo twin core radiator for R32 GTR. retains factory shroud and factory fan set-up. excellent radiator for street or circuit GTR and no hassle to fit unlike some giant ones. Lots of gear I want to shift. I have just bought a house and want to sell stuff before i have to move.

Hi guys, Selling my set of tomei expreme RB26 manifolds. They fit all models of GTR with RB26 heads (so RB30 is fine too). These are THE best RB26 aftermarket manifold out there. Tomei exhaust manifold kit includes the beautiful tomei exhaust manifolds, which retain the factory heatshields and brackets, plus they are investment cast, not welded sections or mandrel bent which means much less chance of cracking. Also included is a full Nissan turbo gasket kit, turbo inlet gaskets, turbo outlet gaskets, manifold gaskets, locking tabs, nuts, studs, everything. there is over $200 just in gaskets, heat wrap and other small parts. The large diameter, straight runner design means high gas velocity which improves spool up and midrange. Not much top end gain but GTRs don't really have power making problems. they have midrange and spool up problems. I've personally used them on 2 of my past GTRs with great results. I love them. I bought this set for my current GTR but am not going any further with that car and need to sell them. price is $990 (currently over $1200 on nengun and around $1500 retail) they are brand new in original boxes. try pricing up all the genuine nissan parts and be in for a shock of how much it adds up to!

Hi Julz, yes they can very easily be used on a GTT. what you do is leave the callipers as they are since the new steel inserts are a much stronger mounting option than thread cut straight into the alloy, and in this guise they are 'bolt on' to a wider range of cars (good if you re-sell in future). then you buy some M12 bolts for the front callipers and there are spacers that go into your hub to reduce the hole from 14mm to 12mm. it's a very simple piece, I could supply them for probably $20 if needed. it's basically just a washer that is about 6mm thick with a 12mm ID and a 14mm OD. it sits snugly in there and allows you just bolt these up without modding the hubs or the callipers.

PM's replied. anyone interested just shoot me a pm and I'll get back to you asap. since I'm moving house in a few weeks I'm pretty motivated to sell. anyone genuinely keen with money just send me a pm and we can arrange a time to meet up in person and you can pick over my goodies... just like fatz does. I also have 2 Nismo LSD upgrade kits. They turn your standard 32/33/34 GTR diff into a nismo 2 way LSD. does not work with any active diff (vspec) model though. I have both the 45ft/lb version and the 75ft/lb version. $320 inc postage in aus or pick-up in sydney. They are an awesome upgrade in a old 32 GTR diff and every bit as good as a brand new cusco/nismo/OS/kaaz centre. very predictable and reliable mech LSD upgrade and all for less than $600 installed. usually around $500 or less really. I also have a set of R32 GTS4 diff gears front and rear. They are 4.375:1 vs standard GTR 4.111:1. It's an awesome upgrade in a 32 and just as good as a close ratio box. it really transforms the stock lazy ratios into an exciting car to row through the gears. the only downside is top speed is bumped down to about 260kp/h but with the improved acceleration you actually have a chance of getting there! The front set is already fitted to a GTR front diff and set-up in a sump professionally. The rear is also already installed into a rear GTR diff housing with a Nismo Pro 2 way LSD in there too. Not for sale EXCEPT for anyone who buys my engine as this set-up was to be used with that engine. If the engine buyer doesn't want it I'm keeping them as they are like rocking horse shit. very hard to find and expensive when you do. Whoever buys the engine I can probably help out with some other special gear I was saving too. Like an ARC circuit spec intercooler (brand new), it has the hand fluted intake tubes and offers excellent flow to the radiator which is vital for a circuit or street car. old model tomei expreme dump pipes (twin 75mm unlike the new 65mm versions) these are not out of production and cannot be bought new, mine of course are still new HKS stainless race spec front pipes which are twin 75mm into single 90mm and flanges welded on the inside for smooth gas flow they are no longer in production either and were around $1000 when available these are brand new as well. These match nicely with the 75mm tomei dumps to give an un beatable front exhaust system. Out of production limited run Trust Power Evolution (not to be confused with Power Extreme), 94mm race exhaust, it's a thick wall exhaust with all V-band connections for ultimate flow and ease of fitting and includes a single 100mm straight through rear muffler and a cat replacement resonator (also straight through 94mm). it's brand new too and about the best race exhaust i've seen. Trust lightweight pulley kit to suit the engine (will consider selling to the engine buyer), brand new of course N1 harmonic balancer (larger than standard RB26 balancer, good upgrade), again brand new to suit this engine set-up This is still not a complete list, but add this stuff to the bits above and you have full engine set-up, cooling system set-up, piping from engine bay, exhaust the whole lot, fuel system to support 700hp (safe at 600hp), plus various other gear. lots of enquires but no one has outright said they'll take it so if you're interested just pm me and we'll talk!

a few pics that I couldn't find yesterday. Some pics of the fully completed engine. This is what you will be getting. it also includes studs and a full tomei metal gasket kit (so all inlet and exhaust gaskets). This is the engine packed for transit. I actually loaded it into my own truck which I owned in japan and then shipped the whole truck with the engine inside back to aus. this is how it looks still: Tets hard at work porting the head. very old school and very skilled. his head porting work is amongst the best in japan if not the world. This is the Super GT Garaiya in the workshop for tets to set-up. The current exchange rate is down to 73yen/dollar now. at this rate it would cost me in excess of $25K and most likely $30K to buy all these parts and get all that work done and then ship it to aus. Even going to a workshop here in aus you wont be able to buy and build a motor like this for that money. For anyone with a good engine the best bit is you can keep and sell all your old engine gear and recover probably around $3500 from your old standard gear. Not bad.

Hi guys, Selling my brake set-up. I bought this kit for about $2800, it included a set of R34 GTR calipers (front and rear) off a very low km R34. They were sold still on the original rotors. from memory car had done 25,000kms. the owner upgraded to a full track spec kit front and rear and I bought the old gear. The rotors were worn out but calipers very good. Not many people know but the R34 brembos are not a direct fit to a 32 or 33 as the bolts and bolt wholes are different (r32 is 12X1.25 and 34 is 14mm). You can drill out your hubs but this is not really reversible. So instead I had proper stainless steel threaded inserts professionally fitted to the caliper lugs which will be stronger than the original thread (just cut into the alloy). this cost around $200. With this mod they will now bolt straight on to R32 GTR and GTST, R33 GTST or GTR, S13 silvia, S14 Silvia, S15 Silvia and most nissans. I then bought brand new front and rear rotors which are slotted curved vane rotors (over $1000). I also bought a set of brand new Project Mu Titan HC+ brake pads around $800 from memory. I also bought a set of titanium pad shims which help stop heat transfer into the calipers (they are wanky as hell and cost about $160) That's over $4,000 total I spent on this set-up. I also have all the caliper pins, all the shims and backing plates, the original pads and the brake lines too (for all 4 calipers). The callipers are in perfect condition seal wise but there are a few paint chips (happened when the bloke who sold them to me did not pack them properly and they hit each other in transit). Asking price is $3,300 for the whole lot. so that's front and rear R34 GTR brembo callipers (modified to bolt straight on to R32), brand new front and rear slotted rotors, brand new project Mu pads front and rear, brake lines and all small parts, brand new titanium pad backing plates, and I'll through in a bottle of Motul RBF 600 fluid too. No where can you get a brake upgrade like this for anywhere near this money. plus usually you get crap second hand rotors that are shagged (i certainly did when I first bought it) and shagged rubbish pads too. This way you get a nice balanced front and rear upgrade for not much more than doing a full set of rotors and pads and caliper seals on your current stock brakes. Pick-up from me in sydney CBD. contact via pm or email through the forum.

Hi guys, I am selling my pride and joy. my "big" motor for my GTR. having bought a house and another car my R32 program is going no further so I have to sell this gear. The story of this engine. I wanted to upgrade my R32 to make a nice responsive 600hp and be super reliable. I bought a brand new R34 N1 Nur crate motor from Nissan japan (have receipts). It cost between $12,000 and $15,000 depending on the exchange rate just for the base engine, all the other parts and labour were on top of that (so over $20,000 spent total). For those that don't know the R34 N1 Nur motor is the last and best factory nissan built RB26. It comes with: Brand new N1 engine block N1 semi-forged pistons and N1 ring set N1 oil pump N1 water pump N1 cams (longer duration that stock RB26) N1 valve springs (apparently better than stock RB26) hand built at nissan and balanced built to exact tolerances not a 'range' ie. it's blueprinted to enable smooth high rpm operation It comes with the gold NUR cam covers but I had to buy the center coil pack cover sperately (cost $550!!!) of course the other big advantage over a simple rebuild is that every single nut/bolt/bearing/part is brand new. think of the cost to replace every single cam cap, cam cap stud, every other bearing, nut, bolt in your engine. it would run to 10s of thousands. They are a complete new motor from rocker covers to sump and include the sump and front diff. but no bolt on parts (apart from oil and water pump). I had my shiny new R34 N1 Nur delivered to Prime Garage in Kyushu Japan where it was torn down to be beefed up for hard street and circuit use with around 600hp. The shop: Prime Garage is one of the top tuning houses in Japan. The owner Tetsu is well known throughout japan. He built Yoshioka's D1 AE86 engine which makes something like 350hp NA from it's 1.75L engine (with NOS). It's one of the most famous 20V 4AGs in the world and enabled Yoshioka to win the international D1 round in the US. For that engine Tets was not satisfied with the off the shelf 4AG forged HKS crank and had his own special cranks built for it! Cost is don't ask, don't tell. but it gives an insight as to how capable and how fussy he is about components and results. They are also an RH9 member workshop. meaning they have built a street spec GTR that runs 9s in street trim on street tyres. Their website: http://www.prime-garage.com/index.html this is the Yoshioka engine: http://www.tunersgroup.com/images/large/large814.jpg image from www.tunersgroup.com This is the 'special' crank used in the F1 engine. black one is special prime garage crank, other one is HKS crank for comparison. pic by me. some of the other tough engines sitting at Prime Garage when I was last there: my old GTR that was fully built at prime garage (engine and tuning) and then shipped over. built crate motor, GTSS etc. made about 320awkw on about 18psi. Tets also works on a number of Super GT cars including a ASL Garaiya! He has built more GTRs than I've had sushi rolls. Ok, back to my engine, so it arrived at Prime Garage and Tets began the process of tearing it down. On top of the already excellent spec list we added: Full Prime Garage street/track head port job they do 3 main types of head port jobs, street - street/track - track. obviously street is the mildest track is the wildest. Mine is in the middle. It has both intake and exhaust heavily ported and knife edged, it has 3 angle valve seats cut, it has new valve guides, combustion chambers CC'd, polish, it has had squish pads removed on one side of the head, this is the best compromise as it allows a higher detonation threshold (ie more boost and timing) but still retains good response. There is around $2,000 in labour in the headwork alone. it's one of the best RB26 head jobs you could find anywhere. Tomei Type B pon cams - 260 degree duration with 9.15mm lift (head has been clearanced to allow bigger cams in future if needed) Tomei Type B valve springs (allow safe high rpm operation with high lift cams, these springs can also come with higher lift cams) Tomei adjustable cam pulleys (good 5 bolt design not as prone to slippage as the 3 bolt ones) Nismo fine tune timing belt (good strong kevlar timing belt) Mines triple flow cam cover baffle system (very good addition to help reduce engine oil breathing) Tomei oil feed restrictor for the head. Oil return galleries ported out to allow faster oil return to sump all engine components balanced and built to super fine blueprint tolerances Trust sump extension welded on professionally (over $1200 just in labour to properly fit it) Trust oil pickup fitted to suit the extended and baffled sump Tomei 1.2mm metal head gasket (gives more safety with high boost at 600hp+) Engine re-assembled and packed back on the crate. Since then it's sat in it's box in my garage There is over $20,000 in parts and labour on this engine and it's all still brand new. This is a great street or track engine package. It will perform just as it's supposed to. I've now had Tets build 3 engines for my cars and they all perform amazingly. I have dozens of pictures of the whole build process and receipts for the new owner. some 'in-progress' pics of the engine: the engine as it arrived at prime garage. this is how it looks now too. it's still on the pallet and wrapped in plastic with all ports sealed and then the whole thing covered by a big box. unwrapping time. again, this is how it was re-wrapped after the build too: another pic last pic of new engine this is the head after porting began: you can see the scribe marks on the exhaust side where they will be taken out to so that they match the manifold gaskets. head awaiting more work the block turned upside down on it's stand in the engine room. the tray system containing parts from the engine. pics of some of the parts when they arrived at prime garage (trust sump, valve springs, cam gears. nismo timing belt etc) pics of the trust sump extension welded to the brand new factory sump the finished head. (exhaust side) This is a close up of the head nearly finished. you can see the squish zone is very neatly removed on one side of the head. that beautiful head. hand ported by a master. another look at that fantastic combustion chamber shape. intake ports. of course they are near perfect. exhaust side. again, they look amazing. compare these pics with pics of a standard head and you will see just how much work has been done. I have lots and lots more pics including pics of all the parts etc. but will save those for the new owner. This is a beautiful engine and I won't break it up. You do have a choice though of a brand new R34 GTR sump with R34 GTR diff ratio (for use in a 34 GTR), or the Trust sump without diff ratio (use your current diff gears) for 32 or 33 owners. The 34 sump and diff are brand new and came off my other R34 N1 Nur crate motor. I removed them to fit that engine to a 32 (I just re-used the original R32 sump). The engine is available for pick-up in sydney CBD or freight anywhere in aus at buyers expense. Asking price is $16,500 which is a bargain. Try and buy a new N1 Nur motor and have it beefed up for less than $20,000. It's impossible. I bought this when the AUD bought 100yen and it was still over $20,000. Now the AUD buys 75yen which would make this well over $25K for me to do again. and then you still need to freight it, wait for it to be built, wait for all the parts and pay tax and duty and customs clearance which could push the cost as high as $30,000 or more so for $16,500 it's a steal. NOTE: I also have a set of GT-SS turbos for sale to suit this engine, I also have intake plenum, nismo air flow meters, tomei expreme manifolds, sard 700cc injectors, sard fuel rail, koyo twin core radiator, Trust full suction kit (includes turbo intake piping to suit the nismo afms, turbo outlet piping and "y" pipe and cooler piping) and lots of other bits too that would go with this engine to make a complete drop in 600hp+ package. contact me by pm or email through the forum.

Hi guys, I bought these for my R32 GTR. change of plans means I am now not going any further with the car (just bought a house!). They are brand new in the box and it's the full genuine HKS kit. It's good for 600hp on your GTR. It will fit 32, 33 or 34 GTR. The kit contains the 2 HKS turbos, 2 heavy duty adjustable HKS wastegate actuators (they come fitted and pre-set), Full metal gasket kit (on it's own worth a few hundred, contains manifold gaskets, turbine flange gaskets, dump gaskets, inlet gaskets, locking tabs, exhaust studs and ntus and thread compound). This is the best upgrade for a good health standard RB26 or with a built RB26 you can really use their potential and run them at 22psi+ and see 350awkw no problem. Kit is in sydney and can be picked up in sydney CBD or posted anywhere at the buyers expense. Big things like this kit often get stung with duty and considering the kit currently costs $3800 from nengun + possible duty of around $500 you are probably looking at $4300 + a fair wait to import this kit from japan. I'm asking $3600 for the whole shebang. pics: will post more pics later. don't have them on this PC, but they are 100% brand new unused and still in the original HKS packaging. this is the HKS photo showing what's in the kit. A few things I forgot like oil drain etc. lots of little bits you need.

sadly your only real course of action is to recover the cost of the vehicle from the seller. my advice is get onto it sooner rather than later. and if we are talking $20K+ then I would get some paid legal advice too.

that's actually not too bad at all. 3.5 weeks for the VIA is a bit long but not unheard of and certainly not extreme. 1 week to get it off the docks is only just slightly above average. I usually quote a week to people for the customs clearance/quarantine process from when the ship docks to when the car leaves on a truck for the compliance shop. again 3 weeks for the plate is a little long but not insane. there is just one small business that makes the plates and it can take a little time. i know it's tough when you're waiting for your car but try and relax. they are only small delays.

yeah agreed. recent R34s i've imported have been special cars for buyers who wanted to buy at the top end of the market (like a VS2 Nur with 40,000kms with books and full owner history, 1 owner). as I just posted in another thread. there are so many R34 GTRs here now that it's really a buyers market and good buys can be had with some patience and some haggling. but if you still want something really special or rare I would import.

perfect advice. with the way things are right now with the aud and with the current car market and the japanese market you would only really import a GTR to be able to chose from the largest pool of cars and have a chance at finding a really special or rare car or just one in fantastic condition. but if you want a average condition R34 GTR at a bargain price then you should probably be shopping locally and haggle with local sellers. It holds even more so for R32 and R33 GTRs but still applies to R34s in my eyes.

isn't it also likely that they just got the build month wrong and the other info is right? unless I misunderstand and you have 'fasted' the vin they provided and found the model year? bear in mind though that fast is not always 100% correct. I have even seen people with different copies get different build dates for the same chassis number... ps, all the VS1 and VS2 BBS wheels are 8.5inch.

that story is enough to make me cry. I remember the day we got Jason Bright to sign the seat for you too... It was nearly enough for you to stop calling me cnt about me having got glen seton to sign his old seat in my car the year before. nearly enough..... dead set you can have the seton seat if you want it mate. It was only my seat cause you already had a kick arse seat with pedigree... now that yours is fked you rightfully have rights on mine but be prepared for me to call you cnt for months and months if you take it... or even better let's get you a ex skaife seat or dig up some ex mark webber merc CLK seat....

I was going to say the same thing. if I get my way he'll never have cause to make any gesture ever again.

most of my gear I buy direct in japan. in a pinch I'd say nengun etc could do it. or contact one of the traders who buys and ships parts from japan. it does seem a bit dumb though as most of the wheels are actually italian made but popular on japanese cars. you interior set-up sounds great except for one thing. for use with a harness I would go to a fixed back fibreglass bucket seat. the stock GTR seats don't work too well with hanresses. in any big accident they will just snap in half and if you go into a wall backwards you'll end up in the backseat or out through the rear windscreen at worst! plus they don't have proper guides for either the shoulder or lap belts and certainly can't use with a 5 or 6 point belt with nut buster strap. something like a velo GP 90 is excellent and can be had pretty cheap if you buy a lightly used one. I'd say $400 would be a fair budget for one. much safer and much better feel too.