XKLABA

the factory wire on the alternator is directly run to the battery so even if car is off it still has power running backwards through it the 33 must be diff to the 32 cause all i did was zip tie the wire to the top of the fuel line and followed it all the way to the engine bay, mounted a fuse holder to the strut tower and then across to the alternator, took about 1 hour for the hole job, you just need a set of ramps to back car onto. although having the battery in the boot makes it alot easier and for the diff in voltage isn't really worth the effort, for me it was run wire to battery or move it 300mm over to alternator

i'll be in for this

if you run the wire feed directly from the alternator you get 14.4v

yeah i hope so, it's seems to have a vac leak and is hunting a bit. form sent, finally got off my arse and run the phone line to the new office

paid today, just have to plug fax machine in so i can send through form unless you can use the one i sent through last time

if your goin to buy an enigne anyway just get a 26, more usable power for less money then moding a 20 or 25, with a couple of bolton mods i've got 290rwkw in the 32 and it is very easy to drive every day with great midrange(full boost at 2800rpm, noticable boost at 2000rpm), then ya put ya foot into it and all hell brakes loose. stock motor with cam gears, full exhuast and 15psi on the factory comp it made 215rwkw, add just a boost controller turn up to 18psi and it did 231rwkw and ran 11.9 at 115mph in a full wieght GTR with a dodgy cat change cat add pfc coils, plugs and z32 AMFs and 290rwkw and 11.36 at 125mph still full wieght

seriously, P platers should buy a cheap, gutless pos and actually learn how to drive first while saving there money so when they get there blacks they can afford something good which would brobly be better then what they would end up with if they started with a one in the first place and might be able to control it my first car was a 96 suzuki sierra 1.3 carby, totally gutless and ran on the smell of a oily rag, i learnt heaps in that car and it cost me f all

first post says standered so i'm goin to say Nissan

14psi with boost tap? remove restrictor from boost line and it'll run 15psi without anything else. stock pump, injectors and fpr are good for upto 290rwkw. what other mods have you got, ie exhaust, cam gears etc there is plenty that can be done before the comp that will make a GTR alot more fun to drive

general maintenance, r32s have a poblem with the two speed pump control unit shiting itself, might be a place to start. if you have no power at all at the plug you can't do what i did, you would have to run a wire from the cars factory fuse box to a relay and bypass pump control all together or replace the unit. i ran a new wire from the alternator and installed a fuse and relay myself and only used the factory wire to switch the relay on so none of the power from the factory wire runs to the pump. as for doing this its not that hard, i think from memory the whole job took about and hour, the worst bit was wiring the plug that plugs into the tank as the wire i used is a lot bigger than the factory one

how cool is this thread, go sonic and alex the kid or mario kart arcade, sega rally

1. this is in the wrong section, 2. did you check it with the car running as i'm fairly sure the pump doesn't turn on till the motor gets cranked, is it wired the right way round 3. the walbros like more voltage than 12v, i ran a wire from the back of the alternator through a 20amp fuse to a 20amp relay which gets switched on by the factory wire, when i had the car dynoed with the pump on factory wiring it ran very lean till we figured out the pump wasn't getting enough power, i rewired it at straight to the rich side

i think you forgot "get a tune" if you have changed pump/fpr you'll need a cold start tune mate, as it will be running rich, that is exactly what my 32 is doing

ok so the temp sensor for the mfd is near the O2 sensor? good to know. yeah the sensor in the cat is just for the warning light on the dash, so if that light comes on genarally your cat is gone or going, was unsure if it did the ex temp for mfd aswell

epa is the ruff end of the pineapple, rta the not so ruff end, epa means you have to go to a actual rta office inspection station, rta is either blueslip or pinkslip inspection like for your rego, it will be marked in a box on the defect notice

i have the boost controller unit and loom adaptor for PFC as i upgraded to a HKS EVC 6, just the MAP sensor is still in car, only because when i remove it the engine warning light comes on, so hopefully with the D-Jetro it is not required

sorry, is this just purge kit and doesn't actually shot into the engine?

r32 gtr diffs are mechanical lsd with 4.11 ratio standered, either this have been changed or you've got a gts-t auto diff not a gtr

you don't need it, but it is just a case of welding a nut and drilling a hole in whatever cat you get, a easy job for whoever fits the cat, your ex temp sensor won't read without it,

do you know the demensions of the intercooler and does it have the hole for the intake temp sensor, the control arms are they front or back

good to see everyone involved in acco is fine and well, its a shame about the little mx5. what about cancelling the rego and insurences and parting the poor little thing out and with whatever money all the SAU guys/girls can fundraise for/with you might get you into position to get a another car for your wife what about a dynoday and bbq.

is that audio aswell or just video

lol, my mistake thats a Rx8 not a skyline, it is the slow group

+1, i have the "Metal cat" metal cat which has adr and epa codes lazered on the body

but that photo only has one skyline in it, thats not right!!!!