MJTru

That's is such a simple idea. How the hell didn't I think of that. I'm all for the ecu. I just testing a old setup I've never got around to finish up. Thanks for your suggestion. This is why I read and ask questions. I will try both methods.

Hello guys. I just have what I believe is a simple question. I have seen guys place a afm in a 4 inch pipe and mess up the whole tune on a pfc. I've seen a few threads around here about the topic. If I was to place it in the exact sized pipe as the plastic pipe it made in. It should provide the same results right??. I'm just trying somthing on one of my old cars. In reality if you must know I'm chasing some way eliminating reverberation on a big turbo set up. Over the years I have learnt vent back in at the right angle and some sharp bends work well and place the afm as far away as possible. I have also learnt the journal bearing turbos are more forgiven for this attributes. I have made a home made pipe to help this out, remember just an experimental try here. I have made the pipe off the turbo 4"inch hits a 90 and a sharp 45 down at another 90 then split into 2 3inch pipes into 2 filters that fits perfect under the lights and behind the front right side of the crash bar. I ran out of room for the afms but I have cut them just exposing the sensor parts only. I'm thing of just placing them both in each 3 inch pipe making them act just like the greedy Y/ split pipe just way further down. Please look at the afm. And I would appreciate and feed back as to how it will work. Or any opinions that would help in this situation. I'm placing this in the same 3 inch pipe. Just aluminum.

Hello everyone. I have spent some time looking for a set of tail lights for a r32 gts4 4 door. Does anyone have the part numbers for both left and right rear tail lights.? I found some on eBay and after I told the guy I want to buy them and asked the shipping as it wasn't listed. He doubled the price. I rather buy a new set. And would like to email rhdjapan to get a price providing it's still available. I appreciate any help i could get.

Many many thanks.

Hello everyone. I have a precsion 7675 turbo I got but it has a adaptor fitting on the top. But I'm not sure if that's how it should be. Can anyone help with the thread and pitch. I'm now looking to run my oil lines, and I'm stuck here. I live on a island and I don't want to order the wrong part or to many banjo bolts. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks

I have no idea what tires. Maybe 285 or stretch 275

I have no idea on tire size. I was feeling the offset was way to high as well. I wasn't to sure and thought of asking. I've seen these wheels on Facebook. For 2200 usd. Well I guess this is a no go. Thanks for the info. What do you guys think the highest offset can be on a r33 GTR. For the same type of wheels. TC3?

Hello guys I see a listing for a set of Advan TC3 18x11 +35 all around. I'm wondering if these will fit on a r33 gtr. What tire size would be best. Thanks in advance.

I agree with above. I first had this same problem when I got a used engine. On mine the head was rotten to the point it would leak coolant into the combustion chamber. Hence the white smoke. BHG or bad head.

I forgot. How can you adjust adjustable cam sprockets to help the low down power?

Hmm. Still a bit mixup here sorry. I understand the way you try to explain stuff. Here goes from my stand point. The cams with bigger lift and especially the long duration let's the cylinder fill situation affect the whole performance by killing power down low due to it causing the peak cylinder pressure to move. We can say we don't know if it's in an advanced or retarded situation. I'm guessing retarding it mechanically speaking. But maybe not. But it does effect the way the ignition timing affect the whole results, power and torque wise. So the cylinder fill rate is delayed letting more air in but depending on flow rpms and turbo capabilities. So as more air is packed in this whole mechanical phenomenon from the stand point of a stock motor vs a motor with cams, and stock time from one to the other, would kill down low power. But if the timing is retarded enough the aid air, if the fuel can handle it, will detonate as the heat rises. But it should raise torque and power further down the rpm band. Basically, sorry if I sound abit confusing here, with duration you have to adjust the timing to gain back abit of down low power lost, but in my opinion you will lose power down low in comparison to a stock setup, until things start moving and flow and resistance gets better. Then everything gets better. Hense why the best result would be the vct system.

I'm using a power fc. (Why do I feel so scard to say that) lol

I like this thread seem like it's right up my alley. So from what I see here a cam with longer duration kills the bottom end. In short if you were to advance the cam, using a adjustable cam sprocket will help out a little bit. But how does a cam with lots of duration relate to ignition timing. I must admit that I haven't looked over all the comments as I'm at work now. But I sure will put it on my to do list to night. Great thread.

Damn that's a harsh answer. Lol. Thanks tho.

It's a forged 2.6 standard size bottom end.

I have ever had this same motor/cam in another body and it was the same thing. Couldn't launch. I'm thinking it's the cams. Hks 272. I'm not sure of the lift. May be standard. But the added duration I feel may be my problem.

Thanks guys. I have already paid for a OS88. So the power glide is out, but may be a solution for another build. After I slowed down and looked at things I'm not sure but I'm thinking it's timing because of the 272 cams in the motor. As it should rip the tires up like mentioned above. At 22psi and 8500 rpms it shouldn't fall flat on its face then go. It bogs all the way down to like 4k. Then gradually climb up and as boost kicks in at 5500 pulls hard after that. Between the motors only the cam is what's different. As the duration is way more. I'm thinking of what I'll need to do to get her going timing wise. As the cams are leaving valves open longer and a small bit more lift. I should slowly start to retard the timing whiles looking at my knock levels and making sure there is adequate fuel. Hmmmm cams are hks 272 Whats the cost for full power glide setup. ???

Yeah I'm stumped to. It has to be timing and fuel I was thinking the same thing. On launch I don't see to much black smoke indicating fuel. I'll also check the timing. It has to if it's to advance I can see it not reaching peak cylinder pressure and killing my take off. Also to lean to be bad. But I don't feel it a lean problem. Best to start logging this week end. I need to buy to damn hub dynos. Thanks for ideas guys

Well today I tried a new setup on one of my r32 gtr build I had done a while ago. When I say tried it. I mean race the car. This car makes good power once I'm off. It had tons of grip and I can't seem to get it going off the line even if I pin the gas to the floor at 8500 rpms. It's a built motor but uses a old gst72 turbo. It's a old turbo long with that being a journal bearing. What I'm doing it comparing it to a smaller set I had on another one of my car. I trying to find out what could be the problem if not it being the turbo itself. I'm guessing the turbo is a 72mm. For now I know my breaking gearboxes In 3rd with this car and until my os88 is delivered in have no choice but to use the 3 stock boxes to work things out. Oh I have 2 r33 box that I'm going to be keeping for gear sets. Just to try out. Anyways what's happening to the car is its bogging off the line no matter how hard I let it go in first gear. I guessing the grip is alot more than my other cars and it sitting on 4 275 tires nto1's. I'm guessing it's the turbo. Being a journal bearing and a old design. Or is it the cams as this car is my first car using cams. That's one concussion I can come up with, as to the difference between the 2 cars. One was full stock. And this one is built, but so much more lazy off the line. After I smashed 3rd gear I gave it my best to see what it would take to smash 1st and even second gear. But the car would just fall over on itself and bog off the line. It goes it just like my other gts4. I'm wondering what all could be my problem here. What's the biggest turbo I can run until it would act this way. Is it because it's big and a journal bearing turbo. Is my cams affecting the tune down low and what could I look for/or do as evidence of this. I'm stumped here. I'm sure I have no boost leaks, but worth checked. Is my turbo oversized. One solution is to use an anti lag device off the line, but it's so hard on the motor and the turbo. Any suggestions would be appreciated guys.

Thanks I've actually seen that. I can't believe I watch it again. So what ecu do you use Piggaz. Does anyone know if this is possible.??

I can see how the knob works to tell the ecu to cut or advance the timing for the shift. But what's the sensor in the box for how do the 2 of them work together. When you said the spinning drum is where I got lost abit. Isn't that sensor looking at the speed of the secondary shaft?? Thanks for all the info. I'm trying to get all the help I can until this box arrives. Rhdjapan said it's 4 months so I hope it won't me 8. Just learn that's I'll need a new clutch damn shaft is 27 spline. Not normal nissan 24 spline. Flat shifting would be so great and it's a very good incentive to us my Haltech PS2000. This ecu can do all of these things?? Sorry again guys I never really mest with it.

Ok I realy slowed down this video and saw that he lifts off the gas then hit the gears. He's good at it. I must say. I am aware of flat shifting. But I'm not sure how it works in detail. I'm sure that through failure I'll learn all about it. This box is the part that will force me to drop the power fc and us the Haltech ecus I have just sitting around. What exactly does the ecu does what its set up for flat shifting. I'm guessing it's something to do with timing.????? Also I'm guessing a strain sensor /gauge, I can't see it being a gauge. But a sensor that aids in shifting. In short so you don't have to lift of the throttle to shift the ecu would use this signal to do something with timing to allow a gear change. Hmm Sorry if I sound like an idiot here. I'm trying. Like I have always done. Sorry.

Guys look at this video. How is this guy shifting with no clutch. Looks like he launches with the clutch but after it doesn't even look like he's lifting off the gas to shift. Is this the box doing this. ??

Thanks for all the help Piggaz. Well I'm getting the os88 for my gts4 as that's my real drag car and I don't care to beat it up, and the gear set for my r32 gtr just as a try to so how it goes. The box and gear set including center plate came to under 14k delivered to florida. I got the standard ratio box. I'm now looking for new needle bearings and a set of new syncros for the gear set, along with seals and so forth.This should just be a straight foward as a rebuilt right. ? I'm not aware of the r33 series 3 update parts what's is this all about. Hmmmm? After I compare the price and results of both I'll make the decision then, to buy a gear set or another os88 for my r33 gtr. I have lots of work left on my r33 so the timing falls right in line. My gts4 motor is done and ready for install. I'll run a std gear box for now. Testing the motor and waiting for the box and gear set to arrive. I wish you had shown in detail that oil modification on the inside. Guess it can't be that hard. Does the os88 comes with oil. What grade/type oil do you use mate. If 8 months is the wait time it will line right up with my biryhday. Great. Long long holidays. What would you say will be the next weak link after that.

Yeah. I'm complicated. I'll post photos when they arrive. Move on from this. Still love the wheels. It wasn't the price but the look that appealed to me. To the point where I figured out what combo of parts made it fit. But for now it's one os88 box and one set of close ratio gear set.