89CAL

Jeze... anyones race at the front really, or will they both push each other to hard and hand it to Kimi. Looking at being a good finish

Missing the HD, it looks nowhere near as Crisp on 10 Kimi's first win back in F1 It could very well happen tonight...

Nah man, Give me a PM sometime. Leave it till a week before you head down here if you want. I'm easy

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-' timestamp='1336902464' post='6354778] ok anyway, so what im gonna do is make the hole maybe 10mm, and i think ill be on the money as far as sound goes. Why dont you just buy a Pod Filter? and if your worried about hot air or defects, buy a cold air box for it Rather then spending 200 hours trying to Mod the standard BOV

Yeah Spring pressure + Manifold pressure will always be greather then boost pressure (when you are WOT anyway)

Just take it on the Chin and stop trying to defend yourself. I'm not trying to be a Jerk, just saying your not going to get any sympathy for doing the wrong thing, no matter if it was with the right intentions or not. We've all done silly little things, and I'm sure most people on here have got at least one fine. Just as long as you learn from it. I'm sorry to say, but it sounds to me like you werent paying attention to the the right things on the day. These things happen but

I should do lol. Just have to find them. Think I know where they are

They are wired parallel so if one goes out the other should stay on

Ok go DC Voltage (its the two lines that go straight, think one is dotted) if you dont have an auto ranging multimeter make sure it will read Volts not mV or anything like that Put negative probe on a good chassis earth and put the positive probe into the plug with the fog light switch on.One of the terminals should have about 12V (there a 3 pin plug, should be a power for indicators, power for foglights and common earth) So if theres power at the plug, check the earth is ok. Change the multimeter to risistance (the omega symbol) and keep the negative probe on the chassis earth and probe the terminals with the positive. You should have one of them with a low resistance (OL is outer limits and means there is no circuit, you dont want this, you want 0.0ohms or similar, it will probably show more like 6ohms or so) If you have power and earth (I'd assume you have a good earth if your indicators still work) then there is a problem with the actually light, wether it needs a new bulb or the wiring in the light assy is a bit dodgy If there is no power there, then post up here

We weren't trying to say it was stupid. Just practice and you'll find its easy with the standard pedals

Can you check there is power at the plug for the foglights and the earth is good? Relays don't often fail

How about you do what we suggested from the start and wind the boost down and see if that fixes the problem. We are either right or wrong about this but you wont know till you try it.

Have to agree. I can do it in mine, surely the R32's arent that different

Just plumb the boost line straight to the actuator so it runs 5 psi. Run it like that for a few days and see if the problem disappears. Might be slower but will tell you if that's the problem

OP: Pick your favourite turbo skyline, buy that /thread

sounds like ECU limits, mine did this on stock ecu. try lower boost setting just to see if it helps

Turn down boost to 7psi see if it helps, or run 5 psi by running a boost line from actuator to boost pickup point did you put the earth for the coilpack harness back on when you put it all back together?

You need to set the new injectors in the hand controller as well, refer to paulR33's FAQ again for this, has the maths to do it. Your car will be overfueling as it will think you have 370cc injectors so it is injecting at say 7% duty cycle at idle, where as (to exagerate the point) if you have 1000cc injectors it will still be thinking there stock injectors and still injecting 7% duty cycle at idle. Now you do the maths, 7% of 370 is alot less then 7% of 1000. So this is what has happened and you've fouled your plugs If you set the injectors right and the AFM right (you just need to select Z32, dont need to touch the values for voltage), put some new plugs in it and limp it to the tuners (DO NOT BOOST) if you absoloutly must drive it there.

get some 3-bond or blue-maxx and smear a tiny bit on the fitting that pushes into the plenum. Probably smear it about 5mm from the inner part up to the step then push it in. This will save any sealant getting into the engine itself let it dry for a few hours or a day even

did you reset the power fc (data init)? I think when i put my z32 on it ran alright, but this is going back along time If you havent done an Init all data then it might not work on the old tune that was on it

Light like a ninja...... LOL Dont even need to argue when R32 owners are saying things like this Buy an old datto ute, there lighter then R32's so therefore they are better

lol standard corolla (carby power ) Dad's project, been respraying it for about 5 years now, just doesnt have time to finish it lol

Yeah this is probably your best bet. Unless you have already modded the harness to get the Z32 plug on.

Maxima Rear? Where?