stenve

found a place that does hi-temp gasket material that you cut to your own size, shape. rated at 1100 degrees celsius compared to the stock nissan stuff at 450 degrees. costs $30 for a 1.2mmx250x250 better idea than $100+ for a nissan gasket.

hey mate if you still need one to test ive got one here.

As the topic suggests i am chasing a nissan dealer that stocks/can order parts for rb25det on southside bris Im after turbo/dump gasket, manifold gasket and studs etc in particular Would repco be able to get these parts also? Is there anywhere else around that do the gaskets? ive read gaskets from nissan costing in excess of $100 Thanks Alot Steve

Spotted Becks in the carpark in the valley yesterday. parked right near you so you could spot me haha green r33 cars finally back on the road so should see me in there a bit more. you always arrive earlier and leave earlier than me though. im usually up on the higher levels

Sorry mate I'll break it down as best i can for you 1) What sort of power will a standard box hold? Standard box is usually good for up to about 200rwkw maybe a bit more, depending on condition of box how you drive it etc. mine gave out at about 190-200rwkw. add an MV shift kit into the situation and most people say you are good for 250rwkw any more then that and you are looking at better clutch packs, kevlar ones etc. Heat kills auto boxes, so a larger trans cooler is a must 2) Can you make one fully manualised and keep the standard shifter, or even better use an R34 tiptronic shifter? you could keep the standard shifter, but changing from first to second would blow, as you need you use the button. also with spirited driving i could see yourself knocking it from D to N pretty easily. R34 tiptronic could be possible but ive never looked at one or the wiring involved etc. if you want to keep it looking fairly standard get a B&M pro ratchet. remove the cover and find a leather gear boot to suit and cover it with that 3) When it is a full manual do you still need an auto ecu? As far as i understand, No. You could use power FC, Vipec, etc or a stock manual one as the TCU (transmission control unit) isnt need anymore to decide when to change gears or to retard timing 4) what would it roughly cost to make it handle about 350rwkw with about a 3000rpm stall and trans brake? No idea. Shift kit $500, Hi Stall $450ish so thats almost $1000 then you need to have the box pulled apart rebuilt upgraded my guess at least $2000 so there is about $3000 for you to start with 5) How much extra electronics are needed? To make it manualised you need a controller box. plenty of auto shops have their own designed ones, or you can give mike at MV a call and he does them for $325 or $375 i forget which one. He said it is about 7 wires you need to splice into and he provides a mud map of which ones which is fairly easy to hook in i believe. You could also look into the Suprastick V4. http://www.latentsolutions.com/suprastickuv.html not sure if that will work on a skyline though. been meaning to send them an email to check I think ive read somewhere a while ago that it wont work. 6) Any thing else you can think of that will need to done? Transmission oil gauge i think would be a good investment if you are going to be building a strong auto box with decent power going through it. Satanic blew out his flex plate at 300 and something, and dangerman is running over 300 with the stock flex plate i believe. so that could be another thing you may need to look in to. Best thing i can recommend to you is give Mike at MV autos a call tell him what you want to do and see what he recommends. Top bloke very helpful the few times ive called him to ask questions about general stuff as for going manual to auto: you are going to need an auto tailshaft, or modify the manual one, auto gearbox, im pretty sure the manual and auto crossmembers are the same so should bolt up. auto shifter, auto pedals. Auto diff? manual and auto diffs have different ratios - something you may want to experiment with? Auto cars have shift lock, to get out of park you need a foot on the brake so that might need some wiring, you'll need a TCU if you aren't going to manualise it. check out the auto to manual conversion thread to suss the wiring to see if anything is needed there. I don't have much experience with that part so im not much help there, sorry. If you have any questions about any of that stuff feel free to send me a pm or ask in here, i'll do my best to help

ive answered most of these questions several times before. check my posts might give you a starting idea.

i have a gktech stainless front pipe with flex on my r33 auto

http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/itemdetails/1826 the bottom item in that pic, is it for an rb? it looks like it is but cant read the tag, looks like it would be a good option. i myself ahd the jjr split dump, and have boostspike and fitting issues, have purchased a hks style front pipe from gktech with has the flex in it and will be using the stock dump with it on the standard turbo. then when i upgrade the turbo i can get a better style hks or something with that.

http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/NISSAN...csn6472175.aspx actually that might be the same one as above haha

pm sent

If mark at godzilla has said he can do something with a vipec id definatly go for that. Sure it isnt the cheapest option but his work is great Check the QLD section im pretty sure a guy in there has had a vipec installed into a stagea, which i guess would be automatic Plus with the vipec you get boost control, traction control etc etc and will fully future proof you if you decide to go any further than 230rwkws My auto is at BGA at the moment getting a new trans put in after it screwed itself at 200rwkws in my r33. i lost 4th gear, then i lost reverse, flaring between gears and so on now a new box is going in, with an MV shiftkit and a large trans cooler, having it all cleaned and some nice fluid put in so i dont have any more problems Mike at MV also does the manual control boxes for skylines, im pretty sure they are $325 from memory and are 7 wires that you tap into to install. so with valvebody - $500ish Control unit - $325 b&m pro ratchet shifter - $300ish (dunno if you need this with tiptronic r34? just using the standard shifter maybe?) and the brackets for shifter - $45 thats a total of just under $1200ish without install to go full manual shift style which will allow you to run any ecu you like. and finally read satanics thread he is using an fcon pro from memory which he has been able to tap into the shift control to customise ignition retard on gear changes and run or switch to different maps with that. sorry if thats all a bit disjointed but it should put you on the right path and give you a few things to think about.

pm sent mate, pretty keen to grab this

hey guys im still chasing one of these Jay im trying to get hold of one locally and was speaking to a guy about one for $150. If that falls through i'll be in contact. thanks alot Steve

big thread on this stuff guys just search for MV automatics basic deal is Mv automatics shiftkit MV controller box High stall torque converter (about 2800rpm is generally the best for street) and a b&m pro ratchet or something similar you're probably looking at about 1500 in parts to do it then labour costs also r33azza has a video on youtube of his line with the MV gear in it. do a search

there is a screw in the transmission pan (just under the gearbox, same kinda deal as engine oil) undo that let it drain out. mine took something like 4.3 litres after changing valvebodies. you prob wont need that much. put car in (N) and fill it up through the dipstick hole, just behind left hand side rocker cover. do it bit by bit checking your levels. you need to get it right, too much or too little will make your transmission do shithouse things. basic idea for you

thanks alot fellas, wheel ramps didnt even come to mind. will have to go get me some!

yeah i was keen to do it DIY, i mean im pretty capable its just trying to get the thing out and the new box in on car stands that im worried about haha maybe i'll take you up on that offer oblivion

hahah, well obviously it wasnt quite that much with the quote i had plus buying the parts it would come close to $4000 found a few quotes quite a bit cheaper now, but its still much more expensive then finding a new auto box and swapping over the shift kit just cant decide what to do i really do wish i had a spare 3000000 lying around though

All you people who have had r33's converted from auto to manual where did you take it to get it done? how much did it cost etc? i just contacted a workshop near me and i got quoted what i thought was a ridiculous price anyone here that would like to do it for me? failing that does anyone have a r33 auto box lying around they would like to sell me? my auto is shiftkitted and i dont mind it to much and would rather fix it cheaply than pay $3000000 for a manual conversion Thanks alot Steve

hey im looking for an r33 automatic gearbox located in brisbane hopefully. So if youve recently converted to manual and have a working automatic box sitting around please let me know Steve 0422850698

pm sent pete

looks like i wont be making it now either stupid gearbox making me go all out and put in a strengthened manualised box

Up on ebay now guys http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Gibson-SG-Standard-...%3A1|240%3A1318

pretty much as above undo fuel cover in boot, disconnect plugs, fuel hoses etc (if you cant undo the lid get a flathead and a hammer and give it some help) pull out full pump assemble bracket thing - its just slide in and out with some clips take off stock pump bend the end of the bracket out of the way or cut it off hose clamp bosch 040. maybe use some fuel hose so it doesnt make as much noise slide assembly bracket back into fuel tank - this can be a bit fiddly. you have to manipulate it a bit (i got mine sitting down right near the bottom of the tank with no sock filter or anything. reattach everything and close it all up. also do the direct wiring mod thats in the DIY section. ive done all this in my R33 series 1 sedan and in my new R33 series 2 coupe. both were pretty much exactly the same

ive got the same problem on my r33 put in the MV shiftkit valvebody, lost 4th... got that fixed all was good. then all of a sudden i lost reverse. car thinks its in reverse but wont engage the gear, no backwards motion. taking it back to the shop to get it fixed. ill let you know what it was. may be of help