FordyR31

Thanks

I don't know how true it is but I heard.......... lol...... The earlier 25's, the VCT was more for off boost driving and worked up to 3000rpm and in the 34 NEO 25 the VCT works over the whole rev range... Can anyone else confirm that as I would like to know myself if that is correct or not.

Just would like to confirm if an air flow meter from an R34 NEO RB25DET will work on a S2 RB25DET from an R33... I have heard they r the same unit but I'm sure the one on my car atm has E60 at the end of the number and the 34 one reads E61. Both have pink stickers I realise so just wondering if the E60-61 makes any difference. Thanks Liam

How good a working order is the afm? Pink label... That a S2 RB25DET? Will u post to Sydney?

red R35 GTR today leaving Tuncurry at about 12-12:30

I need to know also if it is pink. I have seen an R33 with a S2 motor and green labelled AFM. I need a pink one asap. It needs to be in good working order. I read ur ebay ad.. Did it sell for 40 bucks??? The numbers match up to my pink one so I'd say its the same.. Would u take $100 posted please? I am in Western Syd 2758. I can transfer the money mon arvo if I knock off work early enough which I should do.

Thanks for those Brent. Those were what I was looking for. I found the RBforums one on... Sunday and printed it off. Thanks for ur help. Hope it gives someone an idea of what wrong with the car.

Are there no links for a wiring diagram? RB25DET S2 from a 33..

Thanks for the reply mate. I shall pass this info onto the mechanic

Hey guys. This has progressed.. The 040 wasn't doing its job and has been replaced, fixed that particular problem. The fuel pressure reg was fine. New problem. Spark issue, cyl 2 not running properly, changed coilpacks between cyl 1 and 2 and the problem changed to cyl 1. Bought Splitfires thinking the coilpacks or at least one them were cactus. Put them in and after no more than 5 mins the coilpack over cyl 2 had melted. I have searched for over half an hour under maintenance, DIY/facts/tutorials and even used the search function unsuccessfully and didn't find what I need. My mechanic needs a wiring diagram for an RB25DET S2 from an R33. Can anyone link me up with this? He is suspecting a wiring issue, possible broken wire or earth issue. Causing the coilpack to continually fire and melting it. I do need this fixed rather urgently as I'm without a car and start a new job on Monday. He just needs the wiring diagram. Thanks in advance, hope someone can help.

Brent once my car is going again I'll be keen. I don't know if you guys would be keen on doing a joint cruise with R31 club. I know most of the regulars and none r dickhead drivers so if it's an SAU cruise lemme know if ur all keen for more skylines

It is a factory reg yes and was changed in february.... Could too much back pressure on the pump due to a blockage somewhere cause all these symptons or is it more likely an air flow meter issue maybe?

Ok so a few weeks ago my car started to play up. RB25DET S2, PFC, Bosch 040 fuel pump stock afm.. Every now and then whilst cruising along the car would just seem to lose 100% of its power and start to slow down, as if I had taken my foot completely off the accelerator. When i put my foot down a little it would seem to clear up and go again, but it would happen the whole drive after its done it once. This has gradually gotten worse over the weeks and now any sort of positive air pressure aswell as cruising it does this. When it gets to around 2600-2700rpm the engine seems to shut off, fuel cut (PFC) until the revs drop below and it will go again. I wasn't getting into it doing this but I live on top of a mountain and was trying to baby it home up hill and not hitting 2700rpm or into any sort of boost above 1psi isn't exactly easy up the steep bits with tight turns. Also the fuel pump is a bosch 040 in tank wired up properly. Sounds normal at 1st.. Not very loud but u can hear it wirring away in the tank, but after I start to drive the pump gets really loud and stays really loud for the drive until I shut it off. This happened again this morning. I had to back the car out of the driveway to let dad out, it started up fine, sounded normal. As soon as I pressed the accelerator and got off the clutch the pump became A LOT louder and continued to sound this way until I turned the car off. I have a couple of ideas on what it could be but would like to hear your opinions and thoughts. Thanks

I love this chic already lol.... www.r31skylinesclub.com They can answer most of questions.... But it will probably be acsplit anyway lol. It's been done and u will find out heaps of R31 specific things u need to know

I have seen quite a few GTR's hit 300KW with good turbo's and exhaust, fuel pump and injector upgrade and power FC's... stock airboxes to. I think that's almost the minimum you need to do for 300rwkw. May all just depend on the current condition of the parts u have in ur car now like ur AFM's and fuel pressure reg etc, they shouldn't need changing if they in good condition. It has been done, just depends if your particular car will deal with it maybe. Still a few grands worth of mods but maybe a few grand less than u thought without having to change cams and manifolds etc etc.. The rest should cope. Good luck

Doesn't help me much. Mine is an RB25DET S2 so no single ignitor module. Might help the original writer tho... I think I'm about to get some splitfires if I can afford the extra and if it still does it I might have to start looking at injectors.

Haven't heard from the original maker of this thread... Did u sort it out mate? I thought I had my car sorted but after a good drive today it started to do it again... Feels like possibly a cylinder is flooding slightly choking itself and when i give it a hit, it clears up for a while... Bad spark? Leaky Injector/being stuck open a bit too much while cruising?

considering no-one else has replied.. I fixed my car, was a mixture of dodgy coil packs, spark plugs needed changing and the air flow meter was a little too oily... try cleaning ur air flow meter first with some electrical contact cleaner and change ur plugs, see how that goes.

I had had mates in the R31 club use a SAFC on an old RB20DET redtop ECCS with the likes of a VG30 turbo or other upgrade turbo's running 14-15 pounds no worries with AFR's or any boost/fuel cuts. Always good if its street tuned by u or someone u know to have a dyno run to make sure and be safe I guess

Depends on how good the cooler is to... U can get a cheap china cooler like mine for $150 measuring 300*600*76 and it might be/most probably be shithouse for any turbo and boost level over 12psi lol but it looks hektik up front. If you get a well designed cooler measuring the same it will do a better job at cooling the charged air. I was reading HPI... Don't burn me, but it said a really good cooler that does a really good job at cooling the charged air kills the air flow to ur radiator which in turn takes ur intake temp down, but ur engine runs hotter so it all depends on how serious u r at how much power/life u want to be getting out of ur engine. I have also heard thicker is better lol... Especially when it comes to intercoolers. If u have gone to the effort and cost of building a tough RB30E or even more expensive RB30DET don't skimp on parts now. U may aswell get the best out of it. Call somewhere who makes intercoolers.. Its their business to know and get the best out of their product. Call workshops with import drag cars.

Just Jap r the ones I actually had in and didn't want to name. They have offered a full refund or $399 credit towards splitfires. They also said the S2 R33 coils r off the market due to too many issues and returns. I hope this doesn't give Just Jap a bad name, it is just one product that hasn't turned out. I think it's good that they tried to make a product that is almost half the price of the "leading" brand so to speak. It seems to me from what I hear that it's only S2 RB25DET coilpacks that have been taken off the market. I have heard very little of the Yellow Jackets so probably not keen on spending my money there. Looks like I'm getting splitfires if they are going to be the best solution. Thanks Liam

Hey guys, Just a quick question about upgrade coilpack choice. I had some aftermarket ones as the stock ones were no good, not naming brands but they have turned out pretty bad and the company making them have offered a full refund or credit towards splitfires. The engine is an RB25DET S2 from an R33. The only issue with the splitfires is the cost.. I shoudn't complain I got what I paid for last time but I was wondering do any other brands make a good coilpack for this engine at a cheaper cost e.g bosch and the like. Do they fit right up like the splitfires do? If splitfire is the way to go, where is the cheapest place to get them from? My car isnt going anywhere until this issue is fixed. Thanks for ur help guys. Liam

12's... On a dyno sheet for turbo RB's usually in boost u want ur AFR's to be in the 12's. A SAFC could do the trick, just depends if ur fuel pump and afm etc r up to putting enough fuel in for the 15psi and turbo u want to run. Some may say yeah its fine others may have had issues.

If u have a stock ECU ur probably getting ur furl cut from the AFM at 1 bar. RB25DET ecu's sometimes dont like to run over 10psi but the R32 ECU's seem to be a little more leniant. RB20DET actuator is a psi actuator so if there r no manual or electronic boost controllers thats what it should be running. As for ur RB25 turbo. It won't come on hard, it's a Nissan factory RB25 turbo. It will come on a little later than stock and add to ur top end on the RB20 but isnt the sort of turbo to give u that power kick. The flat spot is a common thing with the RB20-25 ecu's. Its usually petty smooth with a completely standard setup but once u start to upgrade things on the factory map like ur turbo, FMIC etc it emphasises it all. If u look at a lot of dyno sheets of RB20's with stock ecu, RB25/VG30 turbo, zorst, pod and FMIC for example u will see the graph start to climb from maybe 3000rpm, then flatten out a bit at around 4000 maybe, then climb again. Its just how it goes. They are approximate figures for example mind u. My mates R32 with a hi flow R33 turbo and supporting mods with stock RB20 ecu running 15psi hi about 170rwkw until the engine died coz it was pinging all the time over 10psi lol... Ping power sucks! Get it on a dyno and have a look at what its doing but anything over 12psi isnt good for ur engine on a factory tune or ur turbo.

Possibly a crank angle sensor issue? I know that when they are playing up the car can just cut out at random times and not start, then all of sudden it will start up and u can drive it. Could it be something like ur AFM needs cleaning?? I am having a similar issue with my RB25DET S2. I am going to clean my AFM and change my coilpacks but if they don't fix it then its back to the mechanic. My issue is only when cruising at the speed limit tho under minimal cruising load or just taking off easy in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. It started to do this yesterday on Peanant Hills Road. I came from the coast down the F3 without a drama, got onto PHR and about 5 mins down there stopped at another red light and the car just cut out. I tried to start it up, it cut out again. Started it again and pressed the accelerator and the revs went up normally to about 2500 and when i took my foot off it went back to idle. That's when it started to miss and want to cut out. It did this all the way from PHR to my mates house in Windsor where I stopped for an hour or 2, let the car cool down and it drove home (about half an hour) fine. I drove it today for about 20mins without an issue, stopped for an hour and half, went to drive home and the problem started up worse than ever but didn't cut out coz I was driving, i had to push the accelerator in to stop it from stalling. If I'm driving and u hold the throttle at the same spot for example to cruise in 4th gear at 60km/h and the same in 5th at 80k/h the car will just miss every 10-20 seconds or so and lose all power completely for a moment and almost want to stall. I have to press the accelerator in a bit to keep it going as I said before and get into some boost. It doesn't do it under decent load tho and above 2700rpm or any rpm on boost. Coming home up the mountain where the car is pretty much always in boost, even if its just 1 or 2psi under that sort load, it drives perfectly normal, no noticable power loss or anything, no misses at all through any sort of rev range. I am trying to change my coilpacks as I said before, because i know my factory ones ark over to the head when hot, but I would have thought my issue would have been just as bad if not worse under load and higher in the revs if it were a spark issue. The car is run by a Power FC but t was on the dyno about a month ago and made good power, the AFR's were in the low 12's across the revs on boost and there were no issues with it. As far as boost goes mine stays normal at all times. Nothing funny there. Sorry to hi-jack ur thread mate but rather than start a new one about what could be the same/a similar thing and get burned for not searching so I added mine. Hope we can both get it sorted a.s.a.p Liam