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B-Man

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Everything posted by B-Man

  1. Who has done it ?? Where ?? Were/Are you happy ?? What were the costs ?? Can you make recomendations ?? PM me if you like Thanks all B-Man
  2. Like the subject says: ....I don't know what it is - but I know you will be good at it ! Cheers,
  3. ??? Missing two cylinders aren't you Megs ??? Still more than my 1.5 tho - Good luck with the conversion.
  4. Drill a bigger hole in it I suppose ?? That's just a guess by the way !
  5. Mark - I bought the compression tester so you can borrow it any time (that I am not using it
  6. So - too rich can cause problems too ??? OMFG. You learn something new every day. Thanks Mort - I'll take that advice on board.
  7. Franks, The car will not idle. Its still boots amazingly - The engine is very very rough = Sounds like a hotted up WRX. I just hope none of my piston has damaged my brand new turbocharger. I'm gonna re-do the compression test as I had a half flat battery with I did it on the weekend - Those results are shocking, much worse that I had expected. Far out.
  8. I've never been RBT'd - thank god - /jokes
  9. Adam, I did look at the plugs - but I don't really know what I was looking for - I was expecting to see near brand new plugs cause we replaced them less then 2000kms before the failure. What I saw was a small rounded end to the centre core - lots of carbon, & very dry - this was on every plug. The plugs could have been changed on me tho - without me knowing - as they were loose - also this may be because the shop had tested the compression. Not really sure to be honest. I really want to find the root cause to my engine failure - only to fix whatever it was that happened. Thanks all !
  10. Cheers for that Dino - that would be very interesting news - and local too - Bonus. Very keen to keep hear about that ! Steve, I think you might be right about the Power FC - It's proven and it has the runs on the board and to me, that is important - I've been thinking about the ECU quite a bit - and talking to different shops about it - I reckon they only want to sell you what makes them the most margin - Not what the best solution is. The PFC is un-surpassed. Means a bit more re-modification for me tho - as I got no AFMs - he he Good excuse for some Z45 or Q45 or whatever those wideband ones are called....... Greddy plenum prolly the way to go - just cause of the way my FMIC piping goes. Plus I agree with keeping all the piping shorter. That's unless Dino discovers a Goldmine. Hears hoping. You know - apart from the lost $$$ and disapointment of all this - I am still having fun - and that is what counts at the end of the day !
  11. OK - so the choice is a) O-Ring the block and use standard head gasket OR B) Get jap brand (HKS / Tomei) head gasket with the O-Ring thingy built in. O-Ringing adds about what - $25 per cylinder to the cost of block preparation / decking ($150) + std head gasket. A Tomei head gasket costs $500. O-Ringing sound like the most cost effective way to go - But What if they Fcuk up the block whist preparing - Tomei is the least risk option. Yes / No ???
  12. I'm gonna do the test again on the weekend - Thinking more about it - it can't be right. Cause the engine starts (doesn't idle tho) - and I drove it for a short distance after failure. Surely, with a result like this , the engine wouldn't run. When I was doing the compression test - the battery was dying, I dunno if that would make a difference ?? I've charged it up now, so I'll do the test again to be sure to be sure. Steve - you are right - it's pretty funny. But you know what ...- I spent the money on these mods, missed 3 track days waiting for the bloody thing to finish, it still wasn't right so I took it back - Told them I had to have it back for a Skidpan day - So the day before the skidpan day, they tuned & dyno'd - Then driving to the skidpan day - this happens - 2nd gear - 3/4 throttle - under the speed limit, accelerating fast but not flat out - then poof. And I did not touch the boost or anything to do with the setup. So, yes, while I can laugh about it now - I wasn't laughing when it happened and for about 4-5 weeks after that. Now I realise that when modifying cars this can happen and you must choose and research the parts , etc, etc, you go with very carefully. It's also why I am going a bit over kill on the new rebuild Specs - Megs mentioned GTR pistons, which are good - but forgies are better so that's why I'm doing that - PS - I was running EMS - but not any more - I'm chucking that shit out - And am going to go Autronic or Microtech. (I did consider MOTEC bu that was a little too over the top I feel) I'll be getting the injectors re-flow & pattern tested for sure. No doubt about that - Also the fuel lines , pump, rail and regulator - they were all meant to be new & good. Once burned - Twice Shy !
  13. Tony, O-ringing is when the block is prepared with wire around the top of the cylinder block - combined with a metal/copper head gasket this supposed to seal really well. See here : http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...7916#post207916 What GTS500 said makes sense to me tho and then you don't have to do anything to your block or risk it being f'ed up . Cheers,
  14. Tony, are you just going Cryotuff or do you linish aswell ?? FIIK ??? It certainly sounds good. I'll take a look on google - Actually I did, but it didn't turn up much - but I'll try again. What components are you getting done ??? Crank Block Cams Valves & Springs Head Rods & Bolts ? What about bearings ?? And what about the new bits you buy ?? Do you do these too or not neccessary ??? Tony, I reckon I am going Arias Forged and Eagle Rods, maybe Carillos. I wanna build it tuff and strong cause I wanna hang onto the car for a fair bit longer.
  15. Some mechnics say yes - some say no. If one was to say, run 18+PSI boost on an RB25DET that was totally rebuilt with all the forged and strengthend goodies, larger turbo etc . Is O-Rining the block a good, bad or other idea ?? Why ?? Correct me if I am wrong or misunderstand, but if you O-Ring your block, then do you have to use a metal/copper head gasget ?? I heard that you need to so the o-ring bites into something. What about not O-Rining, but use a brand Head Gasket like a Tomei or the like ?? Any experiences on this ??? Cheers,
  16. Gimme 10 copies of Fast Fours or i'll blow your head off - he he he he:D Newsagents = cash business - My Dad used to own Glenrose Newsagency - and at the end of a Thursday night trade , the kitty is pretty full (cash wise)
  17. Ha ha - Good one Dino We found out that it was Concord Newsagency that got stuck up. The car is now 'evidence' for the prosecution - re Plates - what about this one - BUSTED
  18. he he - Yeah, more money that sense ....... not
  19. about 30 mins for me - but I don't have the standard plenum & intercooler piping so it's heaps easy for me to get at the plugs.
  20. Megs for the extra $600 I think I will go forged - Aries or Arias - whatever they are.
  21. Thanks 2rismo & Fatz - I got one today Results: Cylinder 1 - 127 PSI Cylinder 2 - 55 PSI Cylinder 3 - 150 PSI Cylinder 4 - 40 PSI Cylinder 5 - 50 PSI Clyinder 6 - 50 PSI Hmmmmmmmmmm:( PS - George - I got mine from SuperCheap Auto - $29 bux - I didn't car about the exact accuracy as I just wanted to know which cylinders of mine were rooted. Cheers,
  22. For Steve and those wondering: I was told that 2 of my cylinders lost compression. So got a compression tester today and checked for myself.... I don't know which cylinder is which, but for the sake of it , My Cylinder 1 is the one closest to the Crank Angle Sensor and cylinder 6 is the one closest to the firewall. Cylinder 1 - 127 PSI Cylinder 2 - 55 PSI Cylinder 3 - 150 PSI Cylinder 4 - 40 PSI Cylinder 5 - 50 PSI Clyinder 6 - 50 PSI Hmmmmmmm - I don't know how the car even started. Since 1 & 3 are OK-ish - that sort of rules out the plenum doesn't it ???
  23. Thanks lads - the Police still need the car for forensics etc. So we will get it back in a week or so. Did anyone hear about an armed robbery in Concord during the week ??? That was the one. Roy, I'll check - good thinking
  24. Hi, Has anyone done this cryogenic hardening on any engine components - I have just been reading an article on it in an old Zoom - The theory makes sence, but I understand it is still relatively new in Aus. The mention a mob in Revesby that does it - Cryotuff or something ?? Calling out for any real life experiences as I am 'thinking' of doing this to some of my engine bits during the rebuild process. I spose the bits to do are : Block, Crank, Valves, Springs, Rods, Bolts - (assume forges pistons don't need it) Thanks in advance.
  25. ** FOUND BY NSW POLICE ** Was used in an armed holdup during the week The car is undamaged. Cheers,
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