B-Man

Is it a fabric one or a paper one ?? If fabric - wash in soapy water (a few times) then coat with air filter oil before putting back in. If paper - throw it out and get a new one.

Thanks Tony - UAS reckon that they can tune it out - I've been reading the "this low rmp idle problem" thread - or whatever it is called - and 'the phantom' reckons that a thing called a dashpot is the go From what I understand - it attaches to the TB - and lets the butterfly open quickly, but close slowly - which fixes the reversion problem .. I'll see how I go with the tune - then maybe look into the EIDS or Dashpot thing Cheers,

Damn - pity it's gone and done - I'd be there with bells on..... BTW Troy - I am running at 18:1 AFR and have no issues at all - My motor doesn't work - but aside from that - no issues at all

Cool - thanks, I get the drift now - Your's was off a Mazda 121 - OK, I'll be going hunting soon - I guess this the exact same thing as what I am doing now anyway - just letting the reves come down with engine in gear - then slowly taling my foot off the clutch...... Right - off to wreckers to find a dashpot...........

Likewise Mal - hey, do you have a DVD/CD copy of the 2nd fatz drift day ?? I'm keen to see how shite I drifted Cheers,

Phantom - I read most of your thread on SDU and am amazed at your knowledge. Cheers What is a dashpot ???

I have you big poof !

From what I can work out : (DISCLAIMER - I DON'T KNOW SHITE) First there is the intial wiring of the ECU / SAFC / Fuel Computer -whatever - If plug and play no need to worry There is your initial setup: eg Injector Sizes, AFM sizes and Voltages (and MAP sizes etc on some ECUs) Then there are things like idle, cold start, etc Then there are 2 important maps you need to configure. 1) Fuel vs load vs revs 2) Timing vs load vs revs These two maps form a sort of 3D graph of your setup. You change something in one axis - it may affect the other. You need to monitor your A/F ratios, Your knock, (multiple ways/methods) whilst tuning. You tune so your knock stays acceptable and the your A/F ratios (depending on load) are acceptable. There is prolly much more to it than that - I'm quite interested in this sort of thing - The problem is that tuners who know what they are doing are not very willing to share info on a public forum.... (does them out of a job) I plan to dip my toe in the water - by building a fuel computer for the Gloria and doing a road tune with a a wideband A/F meter..... Anyawy - you need a bit of equipment and prolly a dyno and spend a lot of hours on it before one could call themselves a capable tuner..... Hope that adds to the discussion - and maybe someone can elaborate and add to it Cheers,

So this is on this week - when I was ICQing with Blitz, I misunderstood and thought it was last week and I was busy. HOWEVER This week I am not busy and I live round the corner (walking distance) from Manly - So I will be partaking in this feast. c u there It's at R&R Manly right ????

Merli - My dad used to work at Scuderia Veloce at Willoughby - he tells me that there was a dude that came around - using a air brush ( that he blows into) - can fix anything - Worked on Porkas etc - I'm trying to track him down,...... Stay tuned.

It's non - metalic (white) Thanks for the helps guys.

yeah baby - you know ya wanna join the 3040 club

Does Nath have access to a Dyno ?

What happened with the rims already ?? :confused:

How long will your fuel pump last if you fit a FPR - ie compared to if you didn't fit a FPR ?? A) The same as if you didn't fit the FPR ? B) Less because you are labouring the Fuel Pump ?? c) More because of some unknown reason ?? I suspect (B)

I have zero $$ ATM

If Grepin doesn't take the EIDS I am interested. Cheers,

Yo - Anyone know of one of those dude that come around to your place and fixes small scratched on your bumper ?? Need a good one for my Sisters Mirage. Prefer Sydney North or Northern Beaches Cheers,

That's a shame Andrew - I bet you were stinging to take her out. re teething problems - I guess you have done this enough times to not let it get to you - At first it does, but then you learn to deal with them and it all works out in the end. The joys of modifying cars It never ends...... "let me give ya the hot tip"

Add me to the list now that I have gone from Microtech LT12 to PFC & AFM...... It's damn annoying - and looks like there is no clear fix to this issue - looks like it depends., * AAC * Fuel pump ground * AFM * BOV * Tune * etc Hmmmmmmm

Double Pumper

Yeah - that's what I mean - mine is not on the plenum side right now. (I have Greddy front facing plenum so non-atmo plumbing is a bit hard) By changing it to the plenum side I'm sort of hypothesising that there will be more volume so that reversion won't be so much of a problem -

Well - I just tried the BOV setting on hard / soft - no difference. I took the BOV off completely and checked it for leaks and bad o-rings - but it all looks good. I blocked the BOV flange whilst it was off - and same problem - but I sort of expected that - as there would be a fiar amount of reversion from the 3040 - which would affect the AFM. I reckon I need to change BOVs or re-position it to the other side of the cooler. Or even get one of those EIDS thingys.... is there a Non HKS branded one of these that is less expensive ?? So the Trust Type R BOV is a good one hey - how much are these ?? /me runs off to search the web..... Fundage is a bit low ATM..... Cheers, Any other suggestions welcome.

I'm fairly sure mine is the BOV - it's a turbosmart supersonic plumbed back to the air filter. - I'll try unplumbing it first. Then I might remove it just for a test. I think the trick might be to reposition the BOV as far away from the AFM as possible. Kamikaze - It sounds like yours is a tuning problem. BTW - the Ford Explorer TPS works with the Microtech and the PFC too.

Fixed properly