JonnoHR31

Are you certain it's a 25 belt? The block is 38mm taller and it looks like you have a standard position idler and tensioner, which isn't possible.

Definitely fit, bit of a downgrade though, the RB25 starters are better.

When I had a GT30 on a RB25 and then later a 25/30 the biggest improvement I made to transient response and low down torque was doing my own ignition tuning. I got it back from what is supposed to be one of the best tuners over here in Perth and whilst the tune was safe it was placid and useless off boost. I started playing around with it and wound in up to an extra 15-20 degrees of timing in some areas with great results. It improved throttle response, torque and fuel economy a lot more than you'd think possible. So if there's anyone with GT30s and other similar turbos and you're not happy with how it performs off boost I'd highly recommend spending some time getting the tune right, it really helps. Just another thing to consider.

It's not thinner, it's relative. For example a 10w-50 oil will have the same viscosity as a straight 10 weight oil when cold but when hot the straight 10 will be thinner. The 10w-50 will have the same viscosity as a straight 50 weight oil when hot. All oils are thicker when cold and all of them are thicker than ideal for an engine when cold.

I had the same problem during summer, bought a small cheap transmission cooler from super shit and put it in the return line near the diff and it's been fine since. Also swapping the return from the rail and the overflow to the main tank around will make it take a little longer to get hot.

Tried increasing the set gain (start boost)?

It seams to not like seeing vacuum, so just make sure it's hooked up somewhere before the T/B and it should be fine. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Sold the car to my younger brother, put a stocker neo (it's now manual) in for him and I'm selling my engine seperately along with a lot of other stuff.

One of the wires was broken but it didn't make any difference. Got it sorted, had the ECU boost sensor hooked up to the manifold, moved it to the intake and now it's running fine. Weird.....

Nope it's all still there.

I'll do it on short notice, $100

Consult isn't really possible at the moment unless I can find someone local with one, might have a scope around the WA section. There was always going to be error codes but I was under the impression they wouldn't affect the actual running of the motor? I've taken it for a test drive and apart from this throttle hesitation it drives perfectly and doesn't have any cuts under full boost or anything.

Just finished putting an auto er34 rb25det into a manual hr31, wired it up and got it running yesterday. It started straight away and idles like a dream, except the ecu isn't putting in any extra fuel when pumping the throttle, making it UN-drivable. I've been over the TPS wiring several times, its got power and at the ECU plug the signal wire reads .45v when closed and 4.0-4.1v at WOT so the ECU is getting the TPS signal and it's working as it should. As far as i know the TPS signal is the only thing the ECU uses for throttle pump injection so this has me stumped. Does anyone have any ideas why this wouldn't be working and how to fix it? Possibly something I've missed in the wiring? Or is there something else than can cause the same symptoms (stabbing the throttle causes revs to drop until the ECU picks up the extra flow via the AFM) that I'm missing?

If the cars RWD then you can usually re drill the engine mounts and lower the motor ~15-20mm to clear the bonnet.

Standard injectors are 370cc and .63ms Your new injectors are 1000cc and .99ms 370/1000x100 = 37% .99-.63 = .36 There's been some debate about the standard injectors latency so I'm not 100% sure about that but it should be close enough to get it running.

try 37% and +.36

why stuff around, I'm selling one for $100....

3071 uses the same turbine as a 3076. And whilst a normal gt30 has a 60mm turbine not all 3076's have the exact same turbine, most of the ones that come with the 6 bolt "bolt on" housings have cropped wheels and smaller housings.

Measure your turbine, if it's 60mm then the housing is to suit either something else or a cropped gt30 (~56mm from memory) in which case you can get it machined or buy another to suit. If your turbine isn't 60mm, which is unlikely, then it's not a gt30 turbine and you have some weird bitsa turbo.

Looks like you've got it sorted but second pic is the way you want it.

I used the measurements in the PDF with the above belt and it didnt work, couldn't get the belt on but it was close. Probably just needs to be moved to the right 5-10mm. No set measurements are garunteed to be perfect as theres too many variables.

Assuming you have a standard ecu with the safc? If so the stocker ecu should cut fuel on decel until lowish rpm's (~2000rpm) anyway which will cool them down more than any combustion even, no matter how rich.

You can use this one: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17872&cat=&page=1 But ideally you want one a tiny bit shorter as once you deck the head and block and the belt stretches a bit it gets real close.... Much better off relocating the drivers side tensioner, just wait until you have a belt so you can figure out exactly where to put it as the dimensions in the PDF don't always work.

There isn't supposed to be a washer behind it.... My moneys on the crank timing pulley plate, as the manual calls it, missing.

With that setup how do you prevent an ever increasing air pocket forming in the surge tank everytime the pickup from the main tank sees air from surge?

if the sensors are f**ked (reading lean) the ecu reverts to the base fuel map, so if that's tuned properly you shouldn't get bad economy from busted sensors. The ecu only uses the o2 sensors to trim fuel on cruise, it'll never add more fuel than the base map.