Johnny

Those things are so cool! I actually tried that myself twice now: first was a vl commo and a 79 bmw 323i; pulled the engine apart and tried tried to learn about whats inside. Its very interesting but makes a mess lolz do they make miniture internal combustion engines you can build and put on display (ones that actually run?) I ask because im building a house at the moment and thinking of putting an engine on a stand for display, maybe an rb series motor like they have at sema and auto shows.

Thanks man, like i posted that im no engineer and dont understand gas dynamics. I just had an idea and wanted to learn from the pros. I saw Mafias post and wondered how he treats people around him in everyday life who ask a question. Now GTSboy, im impressed with but i wont pretend to understand everything he wrote but i got some of it. Thanks man

Interesting thread, i bought mine for 65k almost 3 years ago when the yen was high with log books and 22k on the clock. When the yen dropped, i has a legit offer of 69k but wasnt ready to sell yet Im not ready to sell today but if i did, would put 65k but be negotiable as most owners are. Way i think is: buy new car, car depreciates alot in a few years; rarer cars like vs2's and nurs will hold value longer and only enthusiasts with cash to spend will be looking for the best example. anyways, just my opinion -Johnny

lolz yeah i can picture the ebay advert now "spool your turbo 5000rpm earlier" when you say both object moving through air, not in single direction - what do u mean ash? I dont understand that part?

Interesting replies, like said its just an idea that popped into my head; im no engineer. please keep the elaborations coming! There was a guy on here who had an idea of using boost pressure to pressurise a tank to spray a methanol/water mist into the motor - similar to the electric versions; people like him i admire very much as they like to think of new ideas which may not work but may have some elements which can be utilised. I would love to see someone measure the flow compared to the tried and tested smooth pipes just to see. Can see im a curious person ey? lolz -Johnny

Hey guys, dunno if this idea has been tried or not but im my years of firearms and shooting, rifling of the barrel is the most important technological step in ensuring the highest gas velocity for the projectile. Pre-rifling, the gun barrels were smooth; the projectile was low velocity and more subjected to wind resistance which affected velocity. Anyways, has anyone tried rifling each exhaust runner in the manifold to turbo? In my eyes this would increase gas velocity and prevent turbulance, thus increasing spool Currently, we use a split dump to prevent turbulance when the gate opens. To put some images in your head, why do american footballers throw the ball in a spiral? to stabilize, increase the speed and distance of the ball - try throwing the ball without spinning on a windy day: it wont go far, fast and will drift in the wind. I got this idea when reading about the venturi made by that John S guy in the r34 gtr build. Soooooo anyways why not rifle all the exhaust runners, the dump pipe and wastegate pipe Thanks for reading guys, just would like to hear some feedback and throw ann idea out there. -Johnny

Hey Guys, im selling my york preacher bench as i dont really use it anymore. Its in excellent condition Selling for 100bux, bought for 250 but im am negotiable. Would prefer pick up only as its awkward and expensive to send: located in south morang ill pop some pics on asap - heres one from the net for now cheers -Johnny

Found and bought both nismo and stockers, thanks

ECU sold pending payment

Hey guys, I wanted to open this thread for a while after a few people brought it up in my other threads. Basically, id like to know what people think of swapping the final drive ratio in my r34 gtr? even 32 and 33 Basically i think the rb26 is too small for a heavy car on the street (not talking on the track where your rpms are always high) My car is rarely driven and even when im on the freeway, i never really enter 6th gear, 6th seems to be too laggy and the car dosent maintain speed when you reach an incline, need to drop back to 5th. my query is: what are the pros and cons of swapping? my gut tells me that: 1st will rev fast, 2nd wont reach 100kph anymore and i will have to change gear more. also, being a vspec 2, can i even do the swap as it has active lsds - then again, the mines gtr has done it?? ps: im not a mechanic so i may need the pros and gurus here to sugar coat explanations for me. any replies would be much appreciated and very educational. -Johnny

^^^ agree that the getrag is expensive to repair and replace, unlike an r32-33 gearbox where you can get a replacment easy. go the genuine stuff, toyota v160 is very expensive but my preferred choice, i wont deviate. there was a member on here 'snowy' i think who track raced his a blew a couple with redline, so he went for royal purple; he said that was good stuff and held up to harsh conditions. Ive been looking a motul oils recently, they seem to make a race-spec auto trans fluid so ill look into that when its time to change - will be many years from now as i drive like a granny and have only done 6000kms on the new oil lolz -Johnny

I managed to find a member who has some nismos for sale which im buying and some standards from another member which im gonna buy too. my plan now is to use the standards while i collect the last mods needed for my next mod stage and do it all at once. Another question to anyone in the know: I will have a set of stock AFMs where one dosent work and i know that sometimes for budget reasons, another member of the forum will need a replacment set who might be a bit tight on cash for z32s or nismos. Can i have my current set repaired? they currently work fine when cold but once at operating temp, they stop working; simply a wiring issue maybe? if its a cheap fix then i can fix them supply them to someone else in need. Might be far fetched but just wanna be able to help another member as i have had plenty of advice and help myself and would like to do the same sometime. -Johnny

Hi there, im putting up for sale my stock r34 gtr coil packs which have done a genuine 30,000kms and in excellent condition. I replaced these with splitfire coils in my car. selling for $200bux neg including post anywhere. Also have: R34 GTR Impul ECU: tuned stock ECU for exhaust, 1 bar boost and air filter modifications -$100 or a direct swap with a stock r34 gtr ecu Thanks for looking ps: will pu pics later

Hi there, wondering if you have the stock AFMs and OEM car jack from the r34 gtr. PM me with price, im ready to buy

UPDATE: Ive decided to buy nismo AFM's for my car, having it towed to my tuner next week but until then im looking for stock of nismo AFM's Do any traders or members on here have/sell them and have them in-stock to buy now?

I see your point ash. My plan is now to buy a set of second hand OEM AFM's so i can actually drive the car. As per my previous thread of my stage 2 upgrade, i have new -9 turbz and cam gears sitting around so ill either buy nismo AFM's to pop in or simply swap my power fc to a d-jetro and eliminate them all together. Ill search on the pros/cons of these ECU's and might even consider the VIPEC; then again, after all the hype surrounding them - has it died down yet lolz. thanks again man.

Hi there, need to buy two r34 gtr AFM's preferably from a low km car. Ready to buy so if you have a set, let me know. -Johnny

Hey mate, ill buy the standard nissan jack in the boot + locknut remover if its still avaliable? ive lost mine and need a replacement pm back if its avaliable with price thanks -johnny

Id consider an EBC to reduce the boost back to stock until you tune your car. Sudden spikes in psi might destroy your stock turbo.

Alright then, thanks ash. ill order some nismo's then. can i drive the car to the workshop or will the tune be completely off until i have it tuned on the dyno? maybe tow it down?

Im sure your right about the need to swap for some new AFM's and nismos would be the way to go but will need to be put on the dyno to map it. Main thing id like to do is check which is the culprit, the plugs or the AFM's themselves does this idea seem the way to go: -get/borrow some standard AFMs to fit and see if that fixes the prob, if that works then i will buy the nismo units but if its just the plugs/wiring then simply fix them I just checked the car again and it seems its either the lower AFM or plug/wire that is the one that need replacing. what u think?

Current studies listed in Australian Pharmacy has noted L-DOPA as a treatment for RLS. L-DOPA is a precursor to dopamine in the brain and people with RLS seem to have lower dopamine in functional MRI's. Having RLS myself, ive used it myself with great results. How to get it: at the moment, L-DOPA is avaliable bby prescription but it is also found in a bean called Velvet bean. A company called herbosophy sells it and it seems to be standardised to 15%, so 3 tablets (100-150mg) before bed is your best bet. Side effects are nausea and blood pressure changes but its well worth the benefits (my 1st hand experience) One main issue is conversion of L-DOPA in the body to D-DOPA which cannot pass the blood brain barrier so its best to take it with green tea which can hinder the conversion and prevent the extrapyrimidal effects. all the best mate

You guys are rockstars, it was some loose wires/connection of the AFM. started the car just now, jiggled the airbox and the car stalled. now ive just gotta figure out how to fix the plug. Can anyone shed some light on how to rewire the plugs or replace them all together? as i dont want this to happen again. Can I buy new ones or does it require cutting them off and resoldering them back? I do wish to buy new plugs just for piece of mind or are they hardwired into the entire loom? Again, thanks so much to you all. -Johnny

Hi there guys, I have a little issue with my GTR, basically it loses power while driving then seems to come back in a few seconds. The first time it happened i was driving completely normally, it was starting to build boost @3200rpm or so, the car lost all power and rpm dropped to just under 1000rpm. I immediately stopped the car and turned it off, when i restarted it one minute later it drove fine but happened again 2km later, just before i got home. So far my troubleshooting yielded without success: -Bad battery; as i hardly drive it the battery was dying so i changed it to a new high cca battery -cleaned elec connection points for CAS -cleaned AFM Still to come/ideas -Ordered new spark plugs and splitfire coils -Bad CAS? Ruled out: -Loose cooler pipe as on WOT, boost holds strong. -No backfires or running rich (no black puffs of smoke) -No knocks (under 20) Basically these intermittent faults are the worst cos the car seems fine, starts fine, drives fine and power feels the same so before i must take it to the professionals im hoping someone can maybe help; maybe had the same issue before? I would be very appreciative of any help or advice given as i know this forum is one of the best when it comes to helping out fellow skyline/car enthusiasts. -Johnny

Transmaxz if fine in the transfer case and if your picky you can go the expensive oem stuff (toyota v160) which i used but i used transmax in the transfer case engine oil is nothing but motul, most will agree that 300v or 8100xcess Congrats on the new car, im sure you will have many years of pleasure -Johnny