Thelen

Yea, so basically you need the PFC and a tune to make it work The main reason the injectors probably work stock is a degrade in the line/power cables so that the larger injectors are actually running close to stock. But again impossible to tell really, so tune it

Well as I said, I'm not trying to judge you or anything, I'm just letting you know that your comment "i was so fricken angry that i just flawed it" makes me fear for my safety. I'm not in your State even, but still, it isn't good to have a high powered car in the control of someone that takes their anger to the road. I wouldn't normally bring it up but you specifically mentioned it, and for the sake of all of SAU, it would be better if you controlled yourself, or at least didn't post like that >_>

From a hypergear quote, standard R33 turbo + tune is $1300 (they still haven't returned my call ), and GCG is about the same, depending on condition of the turbo (GCG will rebuild ANYTHING that isn't 110% condition). Basically, ask around, you WILL need a tune after getting this done, so see who is the cheapest inc. shipping.

All I can say is take it to a tuner. You should NEVER perform such mods and not take it to a tuner unless you can tune it yourself. From reading other threads, changing injectors shouldn't make any difference per se, as long as you adjust them to a less duty cycle, but certainly a different AFM would make a huge difference even if you adjust it (they are fiddly).

To be honest, you don't sound like the type of person that should be driving a Skyline let alone a modded one. I'm not condemning you, but in terms of public safety I would rather you were off the road until you can settle down... That aside, the previous posts about blown turbo sound about right, you might try a stock R33 and a basic boost and see how that goes before you blow another $2k turbo....

No problem. In terms of things though, you should perform the solenoid mod, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HO...ing+stage+boost , to get the most out of your setup. After that, return to a standard airbox intake setup, and get a FMIC, and you should be at around 200RWKW.

Read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cu...se-t261635.html it explains everything.

For sure the exhaust will help, doubtful the pod filter unless it is boxed (your sucking hot air), and wheels, lolno. You won't notice much on the gauge though, you only talking a couple % more power.

So to clarify, if you floor it it will go to 7PSI, which is about +350mmHg, IE halfway to +7

"Then a noise like a hose blowing out happened and this incredible whirring noise started. The noise however only happened when accelerating into boost." That might indicate a blown turbo. Listening/watching many a blown turbo youtube vid, they all go VRMMMMMMMMM BAAAAAAAAAAAAM and then make a very loud sound when they spin down, somewhat like the dyno spindown sound but yea. If you inspected for damage, maybe it isn't that. But black smoke certainly means not enough air, not enough air probably means something wrong with turbo or certainly the intake somewhere.

Two settings, FAST and MISSUSSLOW yea? How does it jib in terms of mechanics and road-worthyness? My regular mechanic is a pro but stickler for the law, I'm not sure how he will react in terms of the EBC being there when I take it down. Do I gotta find another one? (If so, status tuning, re customs, anyone in the north/eastern burbs?)

Believe it or not I have, and while I may come off as some dicky 17.999yo about to get his licence and therefore car, I'm actually 22 and legitametly interested in obeying the law.... So an upgraded actuator is the most .. 'stealth' way to go about it, is there some threads I can read about that (search failed me, and yes I went through all 17 pages of 'wastegate actuator')? Obviously an EBC is probably the most versatile, but I'm assuming an adjustable actuator would be able to go up/down a bar or two? IE, will upgrading from the stock ~7PSI actuator to a 1bar/14.5 be 'good' enough or will that be in danger of blowing the turbo (which currently hits 15psi or so, highflowed stock GCG). Otherwise I guess $300 EBC and hide it somewhere.

OK, as I said the answers are in the thread, I already said/knew that they were illegal, what I was getting at is how it is done legally. Aside from the $2-3k testing, there really is no way to get EPA legal mods of the above done? So basically 95% of the posts here are illegal lol? Well, not illegal, but clearly the owner/modifier isn't following any testing or anything I guess just have to live with the risk of fines from EPA to see any/much increase in power without just buying a plain faster car Just spoke to *** at RE customs, and don't quote me or him on it, but he said people just do the mods and if they get done replace with stocks and get it all cleared. Seems a bit ridicules to do this, even more so that EPA isn't more proactive (not that im saying they SHOULD enforce the law more lol, just saying they do a pretty shitty job), but whatever TIA lol. So looks like I'll just have to suck my balls in and hope they don't get snipped by a cop and sent to teh bad house.

What part of the engine is getting old? I know the metal will be getting slightly more brittle especially the head, but is the main area of concern the pistons gaskets and rings? I'm guessing there isn't much else to be replaced (cams?), but is that the crux of it? Also, what sort of power for a R25? I'm guessing the 280kw is more like 260 or so?

Well first off, you won't make 300RWKW with just light mods, although given you have money for a GTR perhaps they would be classed as light money wise The GTR only really differs in the engine compartment, most of the rest of it uses similar/same specced parts (read: same price to fix when broken), so it is really only the engine bay you have to worry about. I've never owned, but considering the high similarity for engine components there shouldn't be much difference to a 33GTST or 32/34GTR for that matter. Basically, you can abuse the engine and other parts more, but they will be 20-50% more expensive to fix if you break, mostly in parts cost, somewhat in labor (RB26DETT is a bit more time consuming to work with, dual turbos etc).

So if EBC/MBC are illegal (are they legal if you engineer? what about if you get the $2500 EPA test? is there a cheaper test that makes it legal?), how can you increase boost to make use of a better setup? I'm talking GCG high flow turbo, HKS FMIC, injectors, exhaust etc, so easily capable of 16PSI or more. How do you go about increasing the boost? I'm assuming here that the stock wastegate and boost controller will keep it at whatever value is 'normal', so say 7PSI for GTST turbo. IE, what is the point upgrading all of that if the gains are fairly minimal (30kw or so for exhaust and fmic) with stock boost? That isn't to say 30kw is nothing, but seems pointless to do all the rest if it won't be used (I know a GCG will spool faster though, but ignoring that). Cheers.

So after spending hours reading this and other threads, EPA documents and the tealeaves of some long lost Chinese tribe, I'm still totally confused about what you can and cannot do. From my reading, it seems like basically ANY mod at all is pretty much illegal EPA wise, BUT, in the EPA 06 document it says: Any modification is permitted provided that it can be shown, by way of test1 or engineering reason, to show that the modification would not be expected to cause an increase in emissions beyond a similar, unmodified vehicle. So does that mean with an ADR compliance thing or engineering cert, 'ANY' mod is actually OK? I'll list some mods/reasons/questions to be more specific: - Intake manifold/plenum - There are a hundred threads on here about how to modify stock, put in plasmaman/greddy etc, but is any of it actually legal at all? - POD (dry) is legal, but not with any change to intercooler. But what about those in an airbox, because again, 100 threads about how to do that and questions about that - FMIC/SMIC, as above really. - Injectors? EPA says "Extra or larger fuel injectors are not permitted." so not that they could actually tell without pulling them out, but they are still illegal right? So the 100 threads talking about them, all illegal? - ECU, again says not permitted, unless to meet ADR. - Turbo changes, doesn't actually talk about that much in terms of changing the size/CFM/PSI etc, just that external wastegate not permitted (and therefore majorly reducing the number of turbos available). Highflowing is impossible to tell, but is it actually legal? What about changing other aspects (impeller size/type, housing, etc) but still keeping an internal wastegate? Again, 500 threads on this, but is any of it legal? - Exhaust manifold, seems to be all OK to mod this, ie stick in 3" dump pipes, as long as doesn't break any other rules. - Exhaust cat and back, again legal as long as isn't too noisy, still maintains the same catalytic quality etc? - Boost controller, probably belongs with ECU, but illegal? How do make use of your fancy new highflow without one? As I said at the start, it seems all of this CAN be done contrary to all of that document saying NO NOT PERMITTED, so long as ADR/engineering certs are gotten? Is that right? Basically, at the end of the day, I'm asking, what mods can be done legally, and how do you go about it (actual mod, as well as the legal aspects) I know 95% of you guys just do it yourself or take to your local mechanic, without even looking at the legality, but a few like R31Nismoid have actually gotten damn close to following the law 100% and still making major power. As a side point, how do performance shops like Dr Drift, Mercury, etc do modifications that majorly increase the power, ie 300RWKW etc, when all/most of the mods are illegal EPA wise? OR is this not the case because they are legit/engineer approved places? IE, can you have mods done at these places and it is legal?

Well you seem to have the opposite problem, or at least the other side of the coin. We both seem OK once it is warm, but I have no trouble starting from cold cold, only when starting after driving it

So starting the car up in the morning, even on total cold close to freezing mornings, it will idle fine at the 750rpm or whatever. But after driving it around for long enough that it warms up (5-15mins), starting the car again after like 30 minutes (time for some parts to cool down), it doesn't idle very nicely for about a minute till it warms up again. I'm guessing something is cooling down or staying hot, and being different temperature to what the ECU expects, so the ECU isn't running on the right setting. It will drive perfectly fine, it is just the idle that is a little sick. Oh, and it will drop to like 300-400rpm, then back to 750ish, about every 3-5 seconds or so. If you put foot on accelerator and hold it at like 1200rpm or more, for about 30 seconds then it seems to be warm up enough that it is fine. Any ideas?

Hey Danz... Yea I bought my r33 gtst 22 months ago for 11000 (inc new tyres), it was totally stock auto. I replaced all the hoses and water pump in the engine bay, cost about 1700 for that (damn labor charges), and also had to get a new starter and indicator stick thingy n few other electrical bits (another 1k), and ended up selling about 8 months ago for only 8500. Just about noone wanted a stock auto turbo. Had it been manual, would have gotten more, and if it had been N/A would also have gotten more. It definitely is a supply/demand thing. In this case the demand for turbo skylines went through the floor because of the P plate laws, and even more so because of auto (who wants a stock auto skyline?).

I was driving up a road, without curbs, and there were loads of driveways, and they made the road go up, where the driveways were. anyway, i went over it probably a bit too fast (80kmh), and now the HICAS light on the dash turns on after a while. The car has been handling a little weird. going around a roundabout, the car would not hug as tight, wanted to go to the left (turning right on roundabout) anyone know what the light means, or whats going on? i rekon either ive broken something, or maybe i've jolted the HICAS into working, and thats what the light means?

Willing to swap for a Getz.

Good god there are too many for sale!!

Is it ok to bump?

No comments? Any ideas? Too expensive?