Thelen

This ^^^ Even though RB was built for power and longevity, you can't expect 200kkm+ from a engine you've doubled the power from, simply won't happen. Driving at track and such isn't such a problem, it is driving in the engines danger zone that is the problem. ie, doing 100kkm at 2500rpm average vs 100kkm at 5000rpm average isn't so much of a problem as too much boost/pressure, lack of cooling, etc. Anyway, it is always better to buy something properly built for your power rather than building up to it (ie N1 from the get-go), so in that regard rebuilding a RB with stock stuff if you plan to do more than 20% more power is just stupid; stick forgies in, have it balanced properly, port n polished etc, and you WILL get an engine that can last 200kkm from double the power.

That is basically the figures I have been using as well. I've always used 15% for manual, 20% for auto, then some % for age. ie, because the skyline is now 15 years old, you loose more power (compression loss, tune loss, just small bits here and there). Rebuilt/modded changes it though and brings it more closely down to the 15%, as does purely having more power (ie so the 20kw base means nothing). I can't remember what the figures were on a rotary that was engine dyno built and then drivetrain (ie rear wheel) dyno'd, but certainly it couldn't have been even 15% otherwise the gearbox would have fried.

For magnets: http://www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/science/770f/ is cheap and will do the trick. SAU should probably just buy a bunch of them and give them out to members at some cruise/meet. Or some bright chap could work out also how to make a kit out of it (ie the coathanger with magnet glued on or something) >_>

So 250k for the build alone, that is one expensive 34! How does it compare to the R35 (though being that costly and all I doubt you'd actually race it, right?)? Very very nice, I hope it is kept around for the next generation to see and appreciate as a classic 20th century car

If you still have it in April and I can scrape together the cash, I'm definitely interested I would prefer the turbos to be switched/upgraded/whatever before I buy it though, but if you want a deposit before doing that (ie/eg I'd be paying for the switch) then that is doable. Mainly just for insurance reasons.

If you still have it in April I will be looking for a car just like yours then

Why do people keep mentioning 150rwkw as a 'good' increase over stock lol? I thought 150rwkw WAS basically stock. Even an auto 33 should be getting around that let alone a manual? :S

I have the same problem with my prelude, fixable according to smash repairs, but about $500 per one (all 4 points), so it is running into quite a lot.

I'm interested, though not until April (when I finish a contract up and can have use for a car). Very good deal, LOL @ the huge pod and the custom gear knob >_>

Is this still for sale?

What is the current price you would accept?

The AFM is just a heated piece of metal. The 'air flow metering' is simply based on how much it is cooled. Therefore, differences in flow rate, temperature, and pressure, will ALL affect it. I'm not an engineer and don't know the specifics or how much it does effect things, but I do know this much

Well, you'd have to look at the compressor map of those turbos, because even a turbo 50% bigger wouldn't make the same air flow if it is at half the boost, but generally you are right, it comes down to air flow. The temperature of the air is a very interesting factor, because most engines measure it BEFORE the intercooler and turbo, so it does assume certain variables after that fact. The AFM measures flow X temperature X pressure all at once, and changing any of those by too much can lean out the mixture (but that is easily fixed by tuning). Back onto topic, 2 turbos can be more efficient than 1 turbo in some circumstances, it really is impossible to generalise.

Yes, that is right, but keep in mind, RPM/throttle really doesn't actually matter at all. The point is to keep the engine in its highest efficiency range. The amount of air entering is NOT the boost, so power wise, 2k RPM and 15psi might be roughly the same power as 7k RPM and a vacuum/small/no boost. Per stroke the 2k RPM has to make 3.5x as much power which may not be efficient. I'm not entirely sure of exactly what all the figures etc are, but you get the idea. What you really need is just find some straight flat 5km stretch, and then go back and forwards a couple of times. Start from lowest possible throttle, up to full bore. Then via some fuel usage tool thingy, you can see what was the best.

The real question is, if you run a turbo + supercharge setup, what will the boost be Forgot to say too, it isn't so much about how much boost the turbos make, it is more about how hard they WORK to make that. All things being equal, 2 turbos will only have roughly half as much work done on them to make the same boost, since the air FLOW is higher even though boost is the same.

Why do people upgrade to poncams? I haven't really read the actual reason so far, anyone enlighten me? Also, vs procams?

Impressive power, though just asking for trouble really, its not legal by any measure, dunno why the EPA haven't had a field day with it yet As for fastest, it clearly isn't legal so clearly isn't the fastest, there are a bunch of 8s GTRs around...

Yep, that is what I've seen as well. Not sure where or if it works, but certainly makes sense. I think I saw it on the police site or fighting the tickets or something. I am presently fighting a not wearing seatbelt fine, given when police asked me to move my car and in my anxiety and panic forgot to put my belt on. I moved 10m forward so thats like 2km/hr lol, :S

I hope you actually have them on the car in the mean time, seems a waste to not You could also try putting them on http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/custom_plates_01.htm

Hahaha yea, I get woken by f**king crows every morning, and parents always complain about cockatoos being noisy whenever I'm around there at 5:30pm or so, though they do live next to nature reserve place, so... It is totally ridicules indeed, I'm seriously considering moving away from a cannon if it will cause such a problem. Not to say it isn't legal, but all the testing etc will be more expensive than a high flow low noise dual pipe muffler system.

I had to get mine balanced/aligned twice cos the first did indeed do a shit job, so don't take it back to the same place the 2nd time, likely they'll do a crap job still... The only company that does good aligns seem to be Tyrepower and Beaurepairs from my experience.

Yea and the security risk of turbo timers, since most people don't install them with a proper alarm. There are a couple stories of people having their cars nicked because they had a timer that didn't allow locking of the car (or they didn't bother), so until the car actually turns off and arms, you got a 1-5 minute window.

I'm also interested in this, I looked at it ages ago for my prelude, didn't really come across any that were good and cheap, wasn't going to pay $500 for something. But $220 seems a lot more reasonable, anyone done that for a ECR33?

I rekon they need to rethink the whole turbo paradigm. Why not use the turbo to compress the air into canisters, which can then be injected literally straight into the cylinders, should make for some epic power given how cold the air would be

Whatever mate, a pro driving a 220fwkw will decimate some rich idiot with a GTR, I don't know why you have such trouble. Sure, dollar for dollar, the GTR 'should' win, but you really do have to see to believe. There are all of 3 turbo 91 preludes in AUS, that have been done reasonably well anyway, so it isn't like there is a lot of data to go on... Heh, replied to him before reading your post, but yes you are totally right. 300KG makes a lot of difference on the track, it really does make higher speed corning possible. Among the other factors, and actually now I think about it, GTR at Bathurst were often far less powerful than the other cars, but they handled so much better. So its the same as 350KW GTR beating a 450KW BMW etc Probably because a decent turbo prelude costs about twice as much as a GTR with some reasonable mods. A 2L I4 is ALWAYS going to cost a shit load more to make power compared to a beastly 2.6L I6 with most of the car being built for higher power upgrades. I ain't saying ANY honda with 220kw will beat a GTR btw, so I hear you regarding those integra ricers.