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Thelen

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Everything posted by Thelen

  1. You aren't going to notice the difference baring quarter mile...
  2. Sounds like some sort of blockage in the hose/block, or possibly not properly clamped. Do ******************NOT********************* drive the car any more without getting it checked out unless it is very close and slow, blown engine is not fun.
  3. You only need to change it if it is stuffed, or if you think the tiny bit more power is worth the money
  4. Tune won't be damaged unless the fuses are stuffed, but if you are paranoid check the fuses and so on before hand. They shouldn't have any problems probably just put a wrong wire in wrong place causing a short.
  5. +1 to the sensor, it in fact will be the way of future for tuning in general. It is funny we are still using basically 200 year old technology to tune our engines +1 to 200l drums, group buys maybe?
  6. You don't need BOV if the ECU can handle not having, but if it does then you'd better keep stock unless you get it re-tuned after changing to aftermarket (or none at all). In reality it won't do harm, will just chew more fuel etc.
  7. Buy the AFM from justjap etc, otherwise PM http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/user/14355-livicuru/ he has one in Sydney for $250.
  8. Wondering if the R33/34 GTR grill, well maybe not the grill but the GTR badge in any case, will fit on R32? (also after 1 to purchase if the answer is yes )
  9. Mmmm yea but he didn't say it was vspec or anything did he (maybe you are mixing up with another post?)?
  10. engine transmission (inc gearbox etc) will easily be 6k. inc labour and everything else you'll need to replace, far more expensive than just getting something that works..
  11. Wow good suggestion, I didn't think of taking it off
  12. Sounds like wastegate to me as well. I'd also try removing the boost controller just to remove that from the equation.
  13. Need to remove the extra 4 after the dash
  14. I'd say the new turbo is absorbing more of the heat, hence the water vapor (always there) is able to form on the exhaust. Nothing to worry about blown gasket will be nasty smoke not clear water
  15. Designed as an external pump. Not saying it won't be fine, just saying it isn't what it was designed for
  16. it is posts like this that make life fun
  17. Yea that should work I'm seeding it from a seedbox. If you prefer a direct HTTP link I can do that to
  18. Yea but why would you run intank, increases the chance of something going wrong, as well as reduced capacity, and more effort
  19. I assume you all mean 040 intank, because 044 is the external model
  20. What brand? Anyone needing more than 255LPH is going to be aiming for serious power and won't care about a couple hundred $$ saved, and will probably NOT skimp on it given how much was spent on the engine. But, see how it goes
  21. You can get 300KW from the stock twins, but only with a tonne of supporting mods such that you only run 1 bar at most, which isn't the case so definitely you'll want to get a proper ECU if you plan to up to 1.2, and you'll be a lot safer with what you have now with a proper map.
  22. Sounds like you have a good plan, good luck
  23. Yea it will end up costing you far more trying to get the R33 exhaust to fit than buying even a named brand secondhand aftermarket exhaust. Catbacks are a dime a dozen nowadays, dump and frontpipes won't fit.
  24. If the old pump had some issues keeping proper pressure for some reason then maybe it is the tune, but I'm fairly sure the old pump would have problems keeping pressure once you got on the gas even more so than low down. TBH sounds like air bubbles or something like that, whereby lowdown the restriction is noticeable, but up high not so much. Lastly, what happens if you turn on/off music/AC/headlights, that should narrow down if it is electrical supply issue (possible if the alternator is on the way out). Ultimately, just pay your mechanic $50 to diagnose it properly before something breaks
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