Thelen

Eh to be fair that doesn't contain "bolt-on" and a noob might not know bolt-on = lowmount (well doesn't really, but pretty close). I do agree search terms come into it, hence the FAQ where you can simply push ctrl + f and find every reference of turbo etc

Well personally I know nothing about you or your rep really, but I was commenting that smaller one-man operations that charge peanuts are likely to be monkeys. As a general principal that is... you sound like a top bloke But while you might have imported 10 cars, places like justjap or whatever import 100s and know their stuff (in theory?).

Pay peanuts get monkeys? No offence Clearly people have a hard time knowing who to trust, personally I don't know why you wouldn't go with 110% guaranteed importer who will never screw you over :S

No, most definitely not. Largest "bolt In" Rb26 Twin Turbos for example. Not in the first 3 pages is there a directly/similarly named thread, so even though the answer kindof lies in some of the thread results.... Anyway, pretty sure a FAQ would answer most of those type questions, though it would take time and effort I know.

If you mean the whistle/whine that happens just after ignition and continues for a bit later, it is 100% fine. I got my started and alternator replaced, brand new straight from nissan and that is what it sounds like. I believe it is due to all the extra oil inside that hasn't had time to spread etc. Also, and my axe!

Might have already been mentioned, but in the coles card competition I mentioned the site really needs to improve the FAQ(s). I just went to click on three very interesting threads, only to see nismoid close them all and say go search. I wouldn't have been annoyed so much had search actually worked to give me the answer on the first page, but it really didn't, and reading through multiple 50+ page threads to find where the hell your search matched a term... is just annoying. TBH 15-20 of the most 'knowledgeable' guys should compile a real QnA FAQ so people can find what they are after without being slapped with "GO SEARCH FOR IT".

hahaha flux capacitor >_> well done solving it

Meh I know the gearbox alone is probably worth more than my 32 GTR Yea its a bit like homer simpson... "straight cut gear set.... *ugghhhhhhh* drools" lol mein gott! my baby, what have you done to her? shes.... shes.... you've gutted her! lol.. epic

Get it setup properly by a tuning shop, will only take them half an hour and $100, otherwise you could spend days/weeks fiddling. Won't likely be the actuators themselves, normally this "boost leak" iirc.

LOL. True that If you don't run a BOV, you'll have idling issues regardless of 3-4" change, although he *is* right in saying it would probably be even worse.

Porsche fip keys fit apparently, friend has a 33GTR.

turbo f**ked or piston rings.

/hate rich people who owns 35s and spend more money upgrading them than my whole car is worth /hate Hahaha looks awesome mate maybe in 10yrs time you get bored of it and sell it to me? By then it should be only worth like $20k...

WTF? That is nonsense

lol "safemode" epic so you are selling the ignitor but it could be busted? or did you test it?

'Low' compression isn't a problem so much as constant compression, as mentioned in other threads and in here due to dodgy testers or badly done. The problem is, as you have, when one or more are vastly different than the rest. Good luck with the fix.

auto electrician, will take em about 30 minutes to diagnose. Sounds like relay box in the instrument cluster is on the fritz

Yea sounds like AFM to me, either that or a gunked injector/plug that is messing with 1 cylinder.

Basically .5" will be more laggy, but will you notice probably not. As for going from 3 to 2.5, it could help marginally in that because there is more volume the air will cool itself slightly more as it exits the intercooler, but again not really noticeable

Sounds to me like you've killed power to the whole alarm unit itself, I'd be looking at the wire you damaged and repairing that. Otherwise, try disconnecting battery then put the alarm back together, then battery back on.

Stop being stupid and wasting your money on dodgy backwater places. Deal with places that are well known (as mentioned above, and down here places like justjap, or anyone with a sub-section on this forum) or pay nothing until your satisfied.

As already said, but get done properly as in the smart way that won't kill the engine, not the dumb way (not mentioned in the thread).

Heh, rough idle is a common problem (though not maybe yours), I believe it is due to buildup on the AFM so you might want to get those checked incase they've reached critical point of buildup and its playing up. Another thing, does it idle fine after being on for 20 minutes?

Even stock FMIC is easily capable of 400+, probably 580 as you mention assuming it is in good condition

Should be simple enough to set to 7k, just get it done properly the first time by a good tuner, being E85 you don't want to break things by doing it on the cheap.