Thelen

yea looked at ebay, nothing specific came up. might just look for generic good-enough rims :S

or you could just buy an ipod and a good set of headphones? Troy has the right idea with the sound deadener, it makes a huge difference especially with no sub. tbh get a decent set of 6.5s for the front, then 6x9 at the back. shouldn't be too hard to fit them in, i've seen plenty of GTR with them (including mine? ). you might try see if you can get a package: headunit, 4 speakers, the cables, and misc other crap. im sure your mate could wrangle that for 650 actually, http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/car-sound/car-speakers/pioneer-tsd1720c-17cm-packaged-component-speaker-system-260w-max/435849 + the 1st headunit is about $500, and really unless you wanted LOTS of noise coming from the back, that might be the best option. you are quite limited in terms of power from the head unit anyway, so im not sure of the benefit of running more than 2 speakers and 2 tweeters.

if you do a poor job on the flywheel you'll tear apart the clutch, so best to just pay $50 to have someone else do it

do you ride the clutch much? could be something wrong with the pressure and riding it causes it to leak out. no idea otherwise.

jimberry ftw. when the clutch in my GTR finally dies (stock ones are beastly ) that's what i'll be putting in. if you plan to keep it for a while it just pays for itself because the cost of rebuilds are pretty negligble vs a totally new one.

its actually not that bad for a rebuild, if you take it out urself and deliver it to them. its about a 4hr job to get it in and out of the car, so that is where a lot of the cost will go. the actual rebuild itself shouldn't take more than about 4hrs, then you can make sure to use performance parts to make it laaast. paying $1300 for a 2nd hand one, even if they think it is in good condition, is a risky endeavour imho.

plenty around where? i haven't seen such an obvious for sale threads :S

oh and i don't mean spacesaver, i mean normal.. i won't be keeping it in the car, sub in boot bolted down.

i must be using the wrong language, cos i spoke to 4 wreckers and they said they couldn't help me.... i realise probably 15" is 'fine', but surely 17" is 'required' for it to be all OK?

think i need something a bit closer than SA they don't have to be skyline wheels, why can't i just use some standard 17" i'm not going to be drifting with them, so it doesn't have to be exact, just enough to keep me out of trouble while i get the damaged one fixed.

Not sure where to post, but I'm getting desperate... I have no spare and my 4th wheel has damage so I don't want to drive around on it much incase anything happens. I've called half of melbourne and no one can sell me a wheel. maybe im not asking the right questions, i don't care if it is the same rim style etc, just as long as it is mechanically fine (ie right size, wearing, offset for ATESSA etc)... anyone have any clues? i don't want to buy a set of 4 just to have 1 spare lol.. i don't have exact offset etc, but its 17" R32GTR 89

anyone?!?!

if by worth you mean spending 5+ hours to achieve nothing, then sure you really only need to pull out the engine if your changing: - mounts - exhaust - intake - misc other stuff all at once. otherwise, changing turbos is basically a 20bolt job, no need to pull out.

Then another 10k in reserve to fix what breaks after Scott's listing. 750HP is realistically a $50k project, especially if you farm out even some of the work to shops who charge $80/hr...

5.2L.. so in other words its about 15L... 15L ought to do 2MW easy

hmmm, im not sure about that. once the clutch is engaged the shock will be the same regardless of the clamp force. so only thing i can think of is if it engages heaaaaps faster. but, never heard of that, and JB clutches are well known in high power applications, even with crappy gboxes, so... :S

make sure you do up the nut again so its tight, otherwise it will keep turning on its own and suddenly bite point will be the floor

lol im so confused. i thought i had it right before, but yea... i see now

very sexy car mate, has been amazing seeing how you've developed it

ah im not that hardcore.. i found some excerpts anyway, waaaay too hardcore for me

ahh, so all N1s are R34GTR turbos, but not all 34 turbos are N1s makes sense now

ignore those pricks, you need bigger injectors, bigger AFM, check it actually is tuned properly, and then you'll see the power. currently you're making the power you get from a car that has had a moron mod it....

yea well 261rwkw is much more realistic power for longevity... one thing im confused about, you say you have stock r34gtr turbos, aren't they N1 already?

well depends how much he drives, the stockies will do 300kw no problem, just depends on longevity

yea doesn't look too bad from a distance and on black, but on the white close up... hmmmm, oh well i'll keep it stock then, unless babyskylines looks good