Thelen

Hahaha, yea the market is definitely on hold at the moment, people just aren't buying as much. What is with the HKS sticker on the airfilter lol?

Sounds like fuel cut. If its fine on the street but not on track, might be fuel starvation..

I'm tired arguing with you, you keep changing the point and making stoopid comments.. Like, how on earth is it important if I'm looking to buy a medium built r33?????????? Seriously, how does that have any relevance......

I don't remember cos it was like 5 years ago and I got in cos a friend was a mechanic/support guy for the imports section. Don't really pay attention to what its called tbh, the cars are more important... He invited me over on the last night before packup and we had a drive of some of the cars on the way back to the garages (local in syd). hicas is nothing like the prelude 4ws, if you haven't driven prelude 4ws you'll never understand. many threads about how to disable hicas should be evidence enough people think it is useless... There are many 500HP+ auto skylines around, which will beat the ass out of a medium modified GTR, so no offence but your full of sh&& too

The most efficient a car runs is when the torque/fuel usage is at its best. That means lower RPM (regardless of throttle being open or shut), will have less fuel usage than higher RPM. Making boost isn't a problem, it just means more air is being pushed through and more fuel. Comparing two gears, say up a hill, 5k RPM and 5psi of boost will use more fuel than 2krpm and 10psi. Sure 10psi will be using more fuel than 0 psi, perhaps 30% more, but 5k vs 2kRPM is 150% increase, so do the maths... There will be some middle ground, where the fuel usage is going to be similar between two gears, the only way to know would be a fuel usage meter. Boost meter isn't enough, because it doesn't say anything about the actual air flow, only the increase given by the turbo That autospeed article is very misleading, they are measuring fuel usage/HP, but that is bogus. They need to show the total usage for the thottle/RPM. The reason being, obviously more HP is going to use less and less fuel per firing (efficiency of engine motion), but the total fuel per second will be more. Anyway, a tuner should be able to give you the story from the maps they make. Oh, and last reason, because there 100% throttle line looks like it will always be below the 25% throttle. And that plain doesn't make sense. Doing 100KM/hr in 2nd gear will use more fuel than 100KM/h in 5th, not to mention destroying the engine, while their graph would indicate about half the usage.

3rd turbo car actually. 1st was auto ECR33, 2nd was friends turbo BMW for 3 weeks, this will be the 3rd. Sure a modified and track spec GTR is faster, but there aren't many of those around, and they aren't raced at winton... I haven't owned a GTR but I've driven three, including a Tommy Kaira at some car show in sydney, can't really compare the street or drag to track, but the prelude handles way better even just on the street to the GTR, about equal to the TK which was lowered great suspension etc. 4ws makes low speed driving a breeze, and helps at higher speeds as well. I'd ask you the same question, how many preludes have you driven, specifically turbo'd ones.. Really doesn't matter, neither will believe the other, but I did post what I've had as adjective experience..

Yea I'm also curious how you get a good reading and pressure, without breaking the hard plastic with the clamps. Ideally, you'd want to retrofit the AFM into a metal pipe, but I guess what you've done works well enough. BTW, what is the narrow pipe with wrapping going up in the 1st picture? Is that your BOV plumbback?

+1, decat could only improve on a properly tuned car. On my 95 ECR33 automatic (yea it was cheap though ) I was getting about 12-13. That was driving about 300km a week, 200ish on the highway, the rest without much stop/start or lights either. So that is pretty good, an being auto as well..

At the time, since upgraded further as the injectors and pump had trouble keeping up. It won't make more area under the curve, I didn't say that, I said it would make power earlier. Anyway without dyno you won't believe me and I don't have them handy, so whatever. Never said GTR is slow either, just slow-er in this case. Feel like your missing the point, so no point continuing to argue. Not that it relates much, but is basically the car now.

Acronym RnR RR R&R is what exactly? :S

What is a grub screw? Pics of it?

A 300KG lighter and far more agile car will certainly beat something with 50% more dyno top end power. Area under the graph being equal, a car that makes more power down low is going to be better KW for KW than one that makes it at the top end. I ain't claiming anything, the records are all there at Winton, so whatever. In a straight line sure the GTR will win hands down, but not around the track... Don't see how it matters anyway. Why would I care what some anonynoobs on forum do or don't believe lol, I don't have anything to prove, merely commenting in relation to the OP... Out of curiosity btw, have you even driven an EVO ? What about a rally spec WRX? I'm guessing no, so dunno how you can even comment with no experience tbh. Just cos something is expensive as EVO doesn't make it good lol.

200 to 260 is a big jump, though you'd only notice it after like 4500-5krpm, but it really must have felt like you were being glued to the chair after that I'm curious though, isn't the 2835 a high mount? If so, why would the intake change? I mean, the piping won't match exactly, but it isn't like there is a lack of room in that part of the engine bay.

Well my 4 cylinder has a disco potato and makes about 220KW at the front wheels, and at Winton decimated all the others cars except for some massive power cars (600HP BMW, 700!HP mustang), inc beating a 330KW 33GTR. Weight certainly makes a huge difference around the track, not so much in drag except for the power/weight and force stuff. WRX are a good car, built very well for rally. EVO is just a marketing gimmick, while WRX is actually built for it. GTR is built for track, and given the 4? years straight they won even with a 150kg? weight penalty is really is a well built car even if it is 10 years older than the WRX. Anyway, STI vs GTR is kind of stupid, unless you care about drag times then by all means get one. But you'll never break 11s unless you spend as much on mods as the car (as others have said). While a GTR will give you 10s or less for the same total

Awesome pic, though strangely only appears when I went to reply, not normal.. Weird :S Anyway, my prelude has a great dose, not a crappy VL type one, but a grunty manly one <_> No problem with shuddering or surging, and its got a brass button clutch too, and its fwd, and tyres bald, and its 220KW

As PJ says, it would be plenty big. If you are aiming for an R34 25DET, you could just use that turbo. Even stock it will make that power reliably, and you can then get it highflowed down the track for another 50-100KW increase.

Pff, everyone keeps repeating that crap about turbo chatter, 'dose' and compressor surge. People blow up their turbos by putting more boost into it, there still isn't any proof 'dose' has wrecked any turbos. Sure, in theory, engineering/mechanics wise, it should wear it more, but no more than a few % and far less than abusing it with high boost etc.

Ah yes probably thinking of external wastegate, not the actuator itself Either way, why would they need me to send the turbo? He said something about proper flow testing etc, to make sure it behaves as it should. Any reason to do this though if you can just get a standard exchangable one? IE, 12psi one vs the stock 7.

Just on this, I called GCG and it is $300 roughly for ECR33 actuator set to your specs (ie, 5-35 psi), but I forgot to ask if it will alter the appearance of the turbo. I know an adjustable one most definitely will not look stock, but what about an upgraded wastegate actuator? As in other threads, ppl recommended to upgrade the actuator so the EBC doesn't have to work as hard (or at least be set as tightly), seems like a good way to go. Also, any idea of how to tell without ripping out the turbo if it already does have a differently specced actuator (boost hits 15psi+ but no boost controller?)?

Well if it is idling, the turbo won't be running very fast, therefore not require much lube/coolant anyway yea?

Ah yep that is the case.

Well it does depend, the basic R33 430HP one was $1300 from phone quote, but perhaps that wasn't counting other stuff. Certainly you should take note of Nismoid, he's probably right for total install price inc tune etc.

When I looked at Xforce they had a all in one kit that was turbo back, that would include the dump and front, but I'm not sure in this case they are different physical pipes?

Yea PM recieved and understood, as I said I'm not trying to post negatively, but it doesn't help if cops read this forum and see people post like you did. It would go a long way towards being able to change the stupid rules that vic/nsw/qld/road and EPA have made if we can show we are a sensible and civilized lot. All the mods we do don't increase driving risk or even emissions if tuned right, so if we can avoid posting like we are angry dangerous, then it might help. That aside, as above, you might find it cheapest to get a compression test. Then after, a general tune. Should cost $150 and $250 respectively, and will show what is the problem.

By front pipes, do you mean engine to turbo or what? I wasn't aware of any aftermarket front pipes for the 26, at least not big brand name?