tm_r33

i actually got angry byt the end of his rb20 wheelspin @ 5800 thread. this guy is a moron. he should not be armed with a set of car keys.

lol +1 i thought he meant steering wheel as well

i use haltech platnum sport 2000. awsome bit of gear. picked mine up for 1900 new but i think they retailed a bit over that. i have a trade account with hi octane racing so that was our price. they do come with a patch harness as they dont fit vehicle specific looms but i do beleive haltechs new ecu range is plug and play for most skylines. (pin layout accepts facory loom, base maps still need to be loaded i think) i think its a link that my mate run with a knck box and stuff. awsome set up aswell

no not the dump pipe. its just hotside cooler piping.

its abit further along now but i hame some older pics i can show you all!

crown wheel and pinion are matched. you are not meant to put and existing center ( with a random crown gear) into a different housing because the pinion and the crown wheel wont be a matched pair. u can swap pinion drive if u like but u need a press. running unmatched crown and pinion can cause them to eat the case hardening off each other and at the least be noisy. the 32 subframe accepts the 4 bolt housing cover from the r32 r200 diff the 33 r200 diff has a 2 bolt housing cover to suit the r33 subframe.

lol i sold the block to the company that built my bottom end. so the un-threaded rb25 male filter piece is long since gone unfortunatly

use the 25 pump on the 25 bracket on he 30 block. and yer ur on the money, i went to use 30 bracket but the 25 pump wouldnt fit the 3 litre bracket so i used the 25 bracket and spaced it out im pretty sure.

i didnt realise alot of people turbocharged factory DE motors. i just would of thought 10:1 cr would of been a prick to throw forced induction into. though i may very well be wrong by the sound of it. what sort of boost are people with de+T running? to be honest ive been working on rb20det, rb25det for about 5 years now but i still havnt had to work on any naturaly asperated rb engines lol. i imagine a 10:1 rb25de+T would be a pretty responsive unit even if limited up the top end.

the compression may have dropped in the sense that instead of the maximum cylinder pressures being say 150 psi when the piston is at the top of compression stroke it may on a worn engine be 130 ish or slightly lower. this could mean either worn ring or valve not seating perfectly but to be honest that isnt gunna make shite all difference here. its comp ratio. and a compression ratio of 10:1 is getting up there for a petrol turbo application. a newly designed engine is going to be better at fighting early detonation but in my opinion an rb25 will not be ideal at 10:1 with forced induction. i think it will limit you severly in the amount of boost/quality of fuel you could run once turbo charged.

i just use the rb25 one i think. unmodified. just had to put spacers between the bracket and the block on two or the three mounting points. from memory this was only because the aircon pump bracket used to go between the block and the powersteer pump bracket on the rb25. so now that i dont run the aircon bracket on the 30 i needed to chuck about 30 mm of spacer in on two of the bolts. *i think* lol.

there was a bunch of chips being sold on the internet a few years back that removed limiter. ive personally driven an r32 gtst with (i can only assume) something similar. it was pretty much stock except the thing revved right off the tacho. so above 9000 rpm. i couldnt find limiter lol. car had many problems but amazing a spun bearing wasnt one of them lol. EDIT the bloke who owned it used to come on here. apex_sx or something like that

yes i was wondering when i first read the thread how the bolt head made it to the oil pump. i also came to the conclusion that the filter gauze on the pick up must of been removed lol. ?? i know its unrelated to nitto's great servive but tell us duncan how did it make it that far through the oil system :S

this must mean that oil cooler kit for 25 and 30 will be different? one will take a thread (30e kit) and one will slide on and use the bolt holes round the outer (25det) ? i cant see the oil cooler sandwhich plate in the 25 kit going onto the already existing factory warmer/cooler. surely it stil goes onto the block?

sounds like you really got looked after. well done mate. its a shame that so many other companies don't want to know you after you leave the shop with one of their products. i haven't had any over-ly horrible experiences myself but i no plenty of people get left in the dark or with no product support. i spent a few thousand dollars on tools (all one brand from the same shop) and when i had same failures they did not want to know me. i proceeded to tell them to bash it up their ass and i have since convinced many of my work mates to spend their money else where lol

alright just to clarify i went down to a wreckers today and had a look at some rb30 r31 skylines. the oil filter goes straight on the block. this will suit fine for run in.

thanks for the input erderr yer ive got a gasket. it came with one of the gasket kits when my 25/30 was built. so did rb30 have a different oil filter block or not run one at all? i dont want to use the 25det oil filter block because it has the huge hole cast into one side of it for the factory water cooler which i do not want to use. so i still need a 30e oil filter block then is what your getting at? one that wont have provision for the water cooler just the filter? (and obviously i chuck the sandwhich plate for the oil cooler kit where the filter would usualy sit on the 30e oil filter block?) *tells girl friend to take me to wreckers to look at a vl commy oil filter block* lol thanks james

lol i didnt mean take the mesh out jono lol. i meant take afm out of car like your saying. contact cleaner does come in an aerosol can. it is a non conductive, fast evaporating spray on cleaner. i imagine 'afm cleaner' would be exacltly the same thing.

oh so the 30 doesnt have an adapter. the filter screws straight to the block. eventually i will run a proper oil cooler it is a track car but for run-in and tuning i just need to get it going. when i buy an oil cooler kit will i be needing the threaded male peice in the block or the unthreaded male piece? i dont want to be swapping these once engine is in the car so if i need threaded later i will just put oil filter staright on block for now? But if i need the unthreaded later i will do that now and run 25 oil to water cooler untill i buy oil cooler? Thanks guys (or will wether i buy a 25det or 30e oil cooler kit effect what peice in need in the block lol?)

well it all seemed pretty tight so ill leave it for now but at least i know whats happening if i have a small leak at rear of head now. and as i said before tweaky...im pretty sure i have a set of new rocker cover gaskets in the garage i wont be needing. so if your chasing rb25 ones i can supply a pair alot cheaper than $42 each from nissan.

arghh shit. i didnt know about the gasket glue on the half moon rear plugs. i just put the top on a rb2530 and i did not put gasket glue on these half moon plugs. do they definatly leak with out it. i havnt noticed gasket glue on them from factory?