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Everything posted by tm_r33
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Where Would The Best Place To Buy Parts ?
tm_r33 replied to Tweaky's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
im pretty sure i have a set of new rocker cover gaskets in the garage i wont be needing. are you after rb25 ones by any chance??? -
Rocker Cover Breather Dash Style
tm_r33 replied to tufrx3's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
pm sent. ill take a pair for my rb25 -
what no one else takes it out so the dirty shit that runs off doesnt just run into the intake pipe. i know im a bit anal but i just assumed people would take it out to do it lol.
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hey all. just went to put my rb25det oil filter adaptor onto my new rb30det engine and notice it doesnt look right. the rb30 block has a threaded male outlet but the female hole in the rb25 adapter is not threaded and is slightly larger in diameter. doesnt look to me like it will seal properly. see pics below. Do i need to source an rb30 adapter? im now guessing the the 25 and 30 adapters are different?
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undo it at both ends. unplug it and take it out. clean it with contact cleaner. i usually spray a fare bit through it. i sometime even let it dry then give it another go. just be mindful that the pin inside is delicate. dont go sticking anything in there lol let dry. put back in.
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yer agreed. going 50 thou over is running a high risK of splitting the block. i seen some pretty shitty looking bores get a hone and work fine. still running EDIT (typo's fixed)
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so why have several people said it send their knock reading crazy??? both mentioned readings up around 100??
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25 det pistons will give you a shithouse low comp ratio on rb30 rod/crank with 25 head. 30 e pistons still not ideal. spend money on some pistions and buy a pistion to suit 25/30. i run the aries 9.2:1 piston in my race car. (to suit twin cam head on the rb30 stroke/rod) it has a higher crown than the 25det and 30e piston. This lifts it closer to the top of the chamber and gets the comp ratio back up. considering rb25det has a 9:1 comp ratio from factory, try and stay nice and close to this for some low rpm drivability. No need to lower unless running huge boost. another benefit of buying a specific 25/30 piston is that if its got a nice high crown it will need some valve pockets. now being a twin cam suited piston, it will have 4 valve pockets (to suit the 4 valve per cylinder 25 head). i also use gt35 turbo. (running .82 rear) *all this is irelivant if u just buy flat top pistons but the flat top will have a lower comp ratio (say 8:1) as they cant lift as high in the chamber and sill have valve clearance. **if your planning on running/plaining any alloy off the bottom of the head it will in turn bring the valves closer to the piston so u will have to make sure u have clearance.
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BAHAHAHAHAHAHAH Do you really think its safe to encourage him to pull his diff out, knock out drive shafts, remove center, take off crown wheel, install shim and then try to put it all back together in a safe working order. i have shimmed plenty but i wasnt guessing either. i understand how diffs work/engage and knew the torque settings, back lash setting etc. i can see a post in near future entitled.... "so i shimmed my diff but then it locked up at 100 km/h and sent me into a tree and now im dead" lol
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those tyres are hopeless, get yourself some kumho ku36 or federal 595s at the least. if you have stock rear suspension i dont see how u could have negative camber unless someone has put lower springs on the factory strut. that power shouldnt promote any wheelspin on decent tyres and correct wheel alignment. not having a dig just letting you know you could easily be putting this power and slightly more to the ground IF you buy decent tyres and work out why u have negative camble on untouched suspension??
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i had identicle problem in r33 gtst it was the alternator. is shit a diode so there was a small current draw all the time. same thing happened to a mates 32gtr and it was same problem there. unplug all the leads on alternator and leave car for a few days,
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yer plenty of people shot peen standard rods so it must provide some benifit. just how much tho i dont know. i wouldnt imagine it would be a whole lot though. im also thinking that new bearings, rod studs, balanced bottom end and limiting rpm to 7000 rpm is gunna play a fare role in longevity of the rods
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Cant Get More Than 315Kw Atw
tm_r33 replied to s13_Skyline_inside's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
yer accross cooler core would be somewhere to start. 2-3 mm doesnt seem right on the exhaust manifold not lining up to me. are u using map sensor or afm? at what psi does it stop making power? -
Cant Get More Than 315Kw Atw
tm_r33 replied to s13_Skyline_inside's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
i was about to suggest taking a look at exhaust manifold. by how much did the ports not perfectly line up? are u checking boost close to manifold as u wind it up? as in is the engine actually seeing more boost? wastegate spring isnt at it thresh hold and bleeding off or anything is it? -
maybe unrelated problems? surely detonation from a lean mixture wouldnt cause a knock???