kitto

2WD or 4WD?

They are the dowels that align the head to the block OR the dowels that align the plenum to the throttle bodies. If they are 18mm +/- they are the head to block alignment dowels.

Needs more spell check..

All Rb25s including NEO and RB26 rods are interchangeable. The NEO and RB26 share a meatier rod though.

Whats the latest price for the complete manifold kit minus injectors but including shipping to aus. Cheers

Nissan Actually calls it an AAC dude. Auxiliary Air Control valve. IACV is the same thing just worded differently. Idle Air Control Valve. But Nissan call it an AAC valve. Then there is the cold start valve which isn't controlled by the ECU, along with the FICD or Fast Idle Control Device.

+1

Jesus f**k, this kit is nuts! If i had the spare cash i'd snap this up for my RB26. I going single turbo with it, but this kit would just be spastic.

Sounds like a wiring issue to me. I'm pointing straight to the AFM for the time being. I have seen similar things with dud AFMs / No AFM connected / Incorrectly wired AFM. Because VL's wiring is SOOOO gay, and most people dont know how to correctly wire up RB's, most people miss the fact that some of the sensors have a separate power feed fed by a brown wire, and most people dont even both wiring up the crank signal, most of them run like shit. I'd check the AFM, if you are not electrically minded, get a mate that knows RB's wiring WELL. Check for the obvious too, IE, vacuum leaks. It is possible that the IACV doesn't even have power to it, one pin should have +12V when the ignition is on. The 0V for this valve is controlled by the ECU.

Small hole is normal yes. It restricts the amount of oil going to the turbo. Too much and the seals will fail. Just blow them out with some compressed air. Not sure about the solder part, however it doesn't sound like the best option.

Yes of course this needs to be taken into consideration. Its hard to work out exactly how much tolerance you need on them when cold.

There is also another issue that is well overlooked that myself and a friend are currently working out. The issue is most of these after market crank collars have too much tolerance between the collar and the inner gear drive surface. Its believed this is causing the inner gear to violently move around inside the housing and crack itself and or the outer gear. This is a known issue which is found here; http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tech/46419-reimax-collar-clearances-pics.html There was a guy making collars that had a better tolerance but he no longer does them. It seems like you almost need a custom collar to suit which type of gears you have. My friend had bought a brand new N1 pump and the pump actually failed on idle. Now we believe the pump had actually cracked while at higher RPM but it just let go when the engine was at idle. The second pump he put in was an RB25DET pump with billet gears. The tolerance was so loose that the pump gears that were moving around all over the place actually cracked the pump housing and caused oil to leak externally. He thought it was the front main seal. But close inspection revealed a cracked housing.

I can also confirm that my NEO motor has an N1 pump with 77mm gears. If your wanting to buy a new pump, please DO NOT buy a brand new N1 or any other RB25DET, RB20DET etc oil pump. They fail regularly. For some reason all pumps after a particular year of manufacture seem to fail prematurely. Some people say its around 2005 ish. I believe the housings are ok, but the gears seem to be weaker. I would say a new pump with billet gears would be ok.

I bought my engine gasket kit off of these guys. Its genuine Nissan stuff they are selling. They are a Nissan dealer in the US. I wouldn't buy a new N1 pump. The ones made after 2007? ish seem to fail prematurely. There is a lot of speculation on this. My mate bought an N1 pump from the US last year and it failed on his engine while it was idling. We're unsure if it had cracked while at high RPM and just failed at idle. Pump was driven with a crank collar as well.

If its for your engine -10 minium no iffs or buts.

PM SENT PM SENT

Yeah but the veyron is an 8 Litre 16 cylinder engine. Not a 2.5 Litre 6. Nytsky's engine is producing 91kW per cylinder, while the veyron is only pushing out 46kW per cylinder. Thats a lot less strain on each cylinder. Also the veyron engine is built to the most ridiculous of tolerances in a humidity and temperature controlled room that is 100% dust free. So your not really comparing apples with apples. Nytsky, very awesome effort! However, what in the hell are you going to do with 546kW in a RWD car? lol

Dude, you can get these for $830 AUD delivered from the US. CP make them as an off the shelf piston now, so the price has dropped heaps.

Yes, do your research for a long time then make a decision. If you rush it, you'll kick yourself. Power should always be the last upgrade on anyones mind. Quite often i've found if the car handles and stops well i'm happy with the factory power output. Maybe fit an exhaust, air intake and a few other things to free it up a bit.

Before chasing power, how about some good suspension? Ie coilovers or decent shocks and springs, new bushes throughout etc. Maybe 4000 series rotors, new pads and brake fluid, maybe replace the old worn and cracked brake lines etc.

With new coil packs and stock or close to stock boost you should be able to run 1.1mm gap no problems.

Common cause for this is the harmonic balancer bolt being incorrectly torqued.

140psi. Jesus. I am thinking of just fitting external pressure regulator after the pump so I can adjust it down if I need to.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ross-Harmonic-Balancers-Metal-Jacket-Nissan-RB25DET-R33-/170701634340?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27be9c3b24#ht_2220wt_1396 Just check they have stock.

This is your problem.