kitto

I have also heard that Nitto is releasing a splined collar and pump to suit like tge 2JZ design. How true this i dont know.

The Australian site i found doesnt say - gonna ring them Tomorrow. A US site for a slightly different type is $126US

Stay on topic please guys I think i may have found a suitable float sensor that can be mounted into something from the outside through a 1/2" NPT bung. Can anyone tell me if polypropylene and/or nylon are 100% E85 compatible and safe? The manufacturer i have found does this type of sensor in nylon and polypropylene with the body being stainless (the float is in nylon or polypropylene). I did a quick google search and it does seem that both these materials are E85 safe, but i just want some confirmation from several avenues. If they are E85 safe, this float will solve this issue completely and i'll be able to have a low surge tank level warning. Thanks.

No it wont, but if you monitor both then you've got both avenues covered. I plan on having the Engine Monitior monitor fuel rail pressure vs boost pressure and i just thought it would be a good idea to keep an eye on the surge tank.

Simon, do you believe that monitoring just the rail pressure is ok? Or should we also be trying to monitor how much fuel is in the surge tank and/or if the lift pump has failed?

Firstly, the fuel pump duty wont be based on TPS posistion. I should have furthered what i was trying to say. I'm using a fuel lab pump. It has a voltage input for speed control or you can use a PWM to control it. I'm using the voltage input to control it. Under 2.5V to the input, the pump runs low duty, above 2.5V the pump runs at full duty. I'm simply pulling the 0-5V off the TPS and feeding it into the signal input on the pump. So at around 40-50% TPS the pump will then change over to full duty. Yes a capacitance sensor would be very good, however, seeing that my surge tank is already made, this would be hard to fit as i have no way of accessing the inside of the tank. The length from the lift pump to the surge tank is about 1 metre of 5/16" fuel line with a Ryco fuel filter in this line. Yes, theory would say the engine would just cut out when it runs out of fuel. Simon a friend of mine who had this issue said that his lift pump failed, BUT the two 044's he had created enough suction to actually draw fuel from the main tank into the surge tank and allow the engine to run. But surging and lean out occurred.

Yes i'm going to do this as well using the Engine Monitor 2 kit that Paul is offering on here. It monitors fuel pressure vs boost pressure, coolant temp, oil pressure vs rpm (i love this one). Plus a few other things. I suppose i'm being a little over the top wanting to put in a surge tank level monitor, butif it can be done a low cost. Why not do it? I was wondering what you were going to say actually Rob. Would you have any idea what pressure the line would operate at between the lift pump and the surge tank?

Fuel pump speed will be varied dependent on TPS posistion. I am installed a big f**k off fuel cooler Feed to and from fuel rail are 1/2", feed and return from the main tank to the surge tank are 5/16" I've already got a good quality new lift pump. I'm wanting to do this after speaking to a few people that have had relatively new lift pumps fail on them. Yes, thats what i'm trying to say. The pump works harder and gets hotter the higher the pressure.

This is a good idea, i do like it. Its very similar to one of my ideas above, but it involves fully pressurizing the surge tank which puts the main pump under even more strain and heats the fuel further. Which is not what i want to do.

This doesn't help in anyway if the lift pump fails... This may be so. But its not as bad knowing how many sub woofers to stop at..

I can't mount an FPR to the surge tank as my surge tank is not running "pressurized". The return from the engine is at the highest point of the tank, with the return to the main tank being the second largest tank. This is to create a small air pocket so the large main pump is not working overtime to try and pump fuel into the surge tank and then over flow into the main tank. This is a large reason why main pumps run so hot, the main pump is working so hard to do its job. This is off topic though haha. Dual lift pumps are an idea, but not practical in an R31 cradle/fuel tank. Surge tank is approx 4 Litres, but 500-700mL is useless as the inlet for the main pump is 40mm off the bottom of the surge tank.

I dont particularly want it to cut the engine. Just warn me early that it is running low. Just a NIStune for the time being. So no 'extra' engine controls or monitoring.

Hey guys, so after hearing some horror stories of the lift pump in the main tank failing and running the surge tank dry causing the engine to fail due to it leaning out i have decided i want to try and monitor the level in my surge tank or more to the point, have a low level detection to set off a warning lamp. There's a few ways i have thought to do this. 1. You could try and mount a low level thermistor in to the tank (the same type of unit that is used to detect low fuel in the main tank in most vehicles today). This however will be difficult to seal correctly into a surge tank, they do not come in a packaging that you could mount into an already made surge tank. They also tend to fail. 2. Ultrasonic detection from outside of the tank, There are tiny ultrasonic sensors that you can mount to items that detect if fluid is present or not behind the medium they are mounted too. Unfortunately i do not believe there is one on the market that will detect fuel through aluminium. 3. Mount a float switch to the tank, when the level falls below the tank, the switch closes. Simple. However, if the fuel is sloshing around which it will, the level may get low and activate the switch but the sloshing fuel may cause it to be on and off rapidly and you may never see the warning lamp light up. There is also the issue of trying to mount and correctly seal this type of switch on an already made surge tank. I dare say fuel, especially E85 will eat most of these switches. 4. Put a DC current transformer into the mix. These will monitor the amount of current that a device is drawing. For example, the lift pump may draw 5 amps of current under normal operating conditions. If the circuit for the pump fails or a fuse blows the current will drop to 0 amps. The DC current transformer will pick this up and can be set to switch a relay which in turn lights up a lamp. The other way around is under fault/short/overload/pump seizure the pump will draw well over the normal 5 amps. The current transformer will also pick this up and can throw the relay in the same way. The issue with this setup, it doesn't account for a mechanical failure of a split line from the lift pump to the surge tank. They are expensive and are proving very difficult to find in an exact form that will suit this purpose. These are usually used in automation where a PLC will monitor a 4-20mA range. 5. This is the way that i am thinking will be my best bet. Fit a hobb switch that is set to (1-2PSI) inline with the feed line from the lift pump to the surge tank. When the lift pump is working fine the hobb switch is in a healthy state, if the pump fails, the pressure will drop to 0 causing the hobb switch to activate therefore turning on a warning lamp. The only issue i'm having with this type of setup is what pressure does the line between the lift pump and the surge tank operate at? Obviously it is bugger all, but surely there must be some sort of pressure there? Whether it be 1, 2, 3 or 4 PSI or whatever it is. They must have some pressure. I'm using an aeromotive pump as the lift pump. Its a high volume high pressure pump, so one would thinking, pumping stacks of fuel through an 8mm fuel line will create some sort of pressure which is what i want in this case. This idea is cheap, simple and will work quite well if all goes to plan. Unfortunately this method does not detect the level in the surge tank, however it will let me know very early that the lift pump has failed and that my engine is going to run lean quite soon. 6. Using a flow meter to monitor the amount of fuel being pumped into the surge tank. These devices are extremely expensive and i highly doubt there is an exact item on the market for my specific purpose. These are my current ideas, im sure there are a few other simple ideas out there, which is why i'm asking you guys. Please let me know your thoughts. Sorry for the long post, but this is a real life scenario and i'm looking for a solution. Daniel.

I agree with Simon.

Price?

Can you upload a video of the knocking? Is it a very audible deep note knock sound? It certainly does sound like a shagged rod bearing. *EDIT* - 'Does'

I disagree. Running too much clearance between the collar and the pump gear is BAD! Very BAD! It means your still only driving the gear on one side of the flats, it may infact be more of the gear, but its still only on one side. Too much play also causes the inner gear to chatter away inside the pump housing causing the pump to fail. The guys in the US and Canada are all over this issue.

The RB20 ECU doesnt have an input for the intake air temp though.. If you could get the RB20 ECU to work, it would solve the twin afm and twin O2 sensor issue..

You need both plugs. One plug is for digital signals (Throttle fully closed and throttle fully open) and one plug is for analogue 0-5V signal. (0-100% throttle). Only way to tell is by looking at the rest of the wiring loom and the ECU code.

Head needs to be machined (ground out with a die grinder) to allow the lobes to clear.

$6k on a computer? Are you serious. The PC you spent $6k on will be worth $2k 6 months after you've bought it... Yes i deal with computers a bit too, they are the biggest depreciating things on the earth! A good starting point will be GTX3582R or the T04Z .82 rear housing is probably ideal $1500 Steam pipe manifold. Garage 7 Item is one of the best New dump pipe and large exhaust system You may possibly need cams If your engine setup is currently near stock then dont forget you'll need Supporting fuel system (Fuel pumps etc) (98 or E85 dependant) Injectors to suit Intercooler Z32 AFM although this will most likely not support anything above 500-550HP Nistune ECU = Tune or go for a full plug in ECU such as a Haltech The list just goes on. To achieve 600 rwhp doing it correctly you might want to have a much larger budget that $3,500. That $6k you spent on your depreciating computer would have paid for most of your 600HP goal...

Ok, these are too dmall to use with Reimax gears.

Can you give me very accurate measurements of the O.D. of the drive flats and the O.D. of the round section of the collar. Thanks

Yep, thats definitely a non NEO head, You can see the lifters are hydraulic Pretty sure the NEO head has 05L on the exhaust side. I looked at mine tonight and i can't actually remember lol. The NEO head has 2 M6 bolts for each coil pack rather than a rail as said above. The NEO has the provision for the head breather on the exhaust side of the head above cylinder 1 but there is no hole drilled for it, just the two threads. The NEO has Shim OVER bucket lifters. You can easily see them when the cam covers are off. You sorta have to know what your looking at, but you can easily see the shims sitting on top of the lifters.

Yep, shes noisy alrigh! Definitely too much noise from one of them. I'd say its your oil for a start. Is it noisy on cold start up, when its hot or all the time? Changing the oil would be a good start.