kitto

Sorry to hijack! I'll be chucking EGT's in my manifold once its been made. But i'll be putting them in every cylinder. Reason - So my tuner can trim each cylinder until they are all equal. I'll also have them hooked up to a logger. I've heard mixed opinions, do you put the EGT as close to the manifold flange as possible? Or about an inch away from the flange? How deep do you mount the EGT in the pipe? Should i be getting open tipped or closed tip EGT's. Open tip react quicker, but i would think using closed tip will be better for the life of the sensors. Cheers.

Oh, to add. under driven is really good for flat out race cars, or cars that spend a lot of time at the track at really high revs. Street car, hmm you might notice the power steering is a bit heavier at idle. Hopefully the balancer spins the alternator and water pump quick enough.

Interesting. Myself, along with Garage 7 were the people who organised ROSS to start making a balancer for the NEO. I sent my old original balancer to them and then they designed one to suit. The only difference between a standard RB25 and NEO harmonic balancer is the power steering pulley. Different offset and the NEO uses a 4PK belt where as the normal RB25 uses a 3PK. They make the NEO balancer by using a standard RB25 off the shelf under driven balancer and fitting up a power steering pulley they the would have designed. When i received mine i was very much like WTF in regards to there only being 3 bolts holding the power steering pulley and timing disc on. I rang ROSS and spoke to Ingrid. She told me they had employed a new head designer and that he believed 6 bolts for the timing disc and power steering pulley was overkill. They may well be overkill but honestly i'd prefer they use 6. Your NEO balancer does look very different to mine. Mine has a specific NEO part number engraved as well as 'RB25 NEO' engraved as well. I can also see that the engraving stating the Torque for the balancer bolt is incorrect. Thats the torque spec for an RB26. RB25 balancer bolts are torqued to 152Nm. The stuffed the engraving up on mine as well. They engraved 235Nm on mine, Ingrid confirmed this was wrong. Apparently the operator typed it in wrong into the laser engraver. I can't take any photos of mine to show you just yet. Its currently back at ROSS getting some modifications done to it to make it correct and the way it should be. If i was you i would ring up on Monday and ask. Speak to either Ingrid or Ross himself (if he is back) and complain. I am getting a bit frustrated with them. They are SO vague and not really sure whats going on. Their products are good and at the end of they day i'm hoping this will turn out to be a good thing. But its just a bit all over the shop at the moment. In regards to the weight of the ROSS vs Genuine i'm not sure i can't help you. Havn't weighed mine, i would ask as well. To be honest i dont think its much of a deal.

Lots of interest in the RB26 but its still here... Photos Section of the broken part of the RB26 block. I still have the broken section and it can be welded back on and used again. Crank has No damage. Or use everything for a 26/30. Rods - These are very very good quality top of the range rods! Pistons Gasket Kit Adjustable Tomei Inlet Cam Gear Please contact me if you have any questions on anything.

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If your interested in some 86.5mm pistons I have a set of CPs brand new in the box. After $750 Plus post. I'm in Adelaide. Let me know if your interested. Cheers

EBC must be on the car when your tuning it. Up to you on the balancer. It's a serviceable part just like your timing belt. Just no one replaces them. I would be replacing it. As you said the rubber is all cracked.

It wont have any senders at all. It picks up all that information from the ECU via CAN BUS. Or you can install racepak sensors through a racepak USM. No it wont work with Nistune.

EBC's are good. The EBC will try and hold target boost a lot better than a manual valve. You can also adjust the gain, to keep the gate shut longer to build boost quicker.

Yes, this is true. But i think the N1 pump is really suited to dedicated track cars that are really revving hard. Above 7,000RPM for long periods. The N1 pump actually pumps the water slower. At low RPM this can be an issue. I myself am deciding whether to use my N1 water pump or a Brand new NEO water pump for my RB25. Dedicated track car, however it won't see above 7,000RPM often.

Standard New Water Pump Nissan/Nismo timing belt Genuine tensioner, idler, stud kit New Nissan Harmonic balancer Pump is entirely up to you. N1 does flow more than the standard 25 pump. Stronger gears may be a good idea. But I have found the inner gear to crank collar clearance on aftermarket gears to be excessive. Reimax included. As you don't have a collar fitted it may be wise just to retain the standard pump. A new harmonic balancer and avoiding rev limiter does wonders for your oil pumps life. What ever you do, don't fit a "new" Nissan pump or new housing with aftermarket gears. Quality has dropped a lot on the Nissan pump and are prone to cracking.

Just adding to that, if you use an LED to test injector pulse, note that you'll need a 12V LED or a 2-3V LED with a dropping resistor. Polarity dependent as well. Injectors have constant 12V to one side of them. Injectors drivers inside the ECU ground the other side of the injector.

Yeah you'll still hear them firing even if the are blocked. Another thing to try, is block the fuel return line with some clamps and then try starting. Pull the CAS first and check the injectors are firing. When your cranking it (without aero start), does it fire/cough at all? Or it just cranks?

Oh, you could also remove the CAS, switch the ignition on, rotate the CAS with your hand and listen to see if the injectors are firing. If they are, it's not a CAS issue.

Obviously a fuel problem if it starts with aero start. Changed to fuel filter? Did you connect up the fuel lines correctly when you put the pump cradle back in? Ie not reversed. I'd start with that, make sure you getting fuel to the rail correctly before looking at the injectors. But yes, they could be blocked. Do an oil change first as well if you haven't done so already.

Get rid of the fuel pump control module for a start. Hard wire the fuel pump negative terminal to ground. Ignore pin 111 on the ECU. Your only concern is pin 13. This grounds the fuel pump relay. On ignition on it grounds the relay for 4 seconds. When CAS signal is seen the ECU grounds this pin full time. When it isn't grounded you'll see an open circuit/high resistance. If your fuse is constantly blowing find the short. DO NOT put bigger fuses in, you'll start melting your wiring. Bigger fuses are not the answer to a fuse that keeps blowing.

PM Replied.

Is it all still connected? If the ECU can't see the TCS TPS it'll have a fit.

Have you deleted the traction control throttle body and replaced it with a normal R33 one?

Yes i would. As long as your not in a hurry for it? PM me to discuss further if your interested.

Bump, it's all gotta go!

Nah i dont have one lying around. Just go and buy a speco meter one, $30odd. Even though i'll have the racepak in my car i'm still going to have some gauges. Accusump will be a good investment.

Hmmm, red light is dancing away like mad. Maybe its a good idea to fit an accusump? Yeah your just on the verge of the 10psi/1000RPM rule. 75-90 PSI would of course be a lot better. Another idea you could do, hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Watch the gauge and/or film it and see if that gauge drastically dips.

Thank the Nissan CAS for the rough RPM signal. Simon, just looking at the graph, i see a maximum oil pressure of 64.2 PSI and a maximum RPM of 6734RPM. Your peak oil pressure is on the low side for that RPM.

Interesting issue. I would be putting another oil pressure sender in. One sender at the outlet of the oil filter plate and have the other one in the main oil gallery (im assuming this is where you have your curreny one). Then do a run and log it. Youll be able to see any difference between pump output pressure and engine oil pressure.