kitto

You NEED R33 engine mounts, yes they are different to VL's, R31's, R32's. Im not sure if they are the same as an R34 or not. The rectangle ones you have seen are to suit an R31 and or R32. You do not want these. If they are listed as being R33 but have rectangle ones in the picture, its highly likely that the picture is just for illustration purposes only. But as always, you should be careful which ebayer you buy from.

Wrong section dude, put it in the Wanted to buy section.

PM SENT

Carrillo Con Rods sold pending payment. Tomei Adjustable Cam gear, RB25 NEO harmonic balancer, All other NEO parts still here.

A lot of engine components are 90% made in Asia, then shipped to the country where they are owned to have final machining done. PS, sending you, the OP a PM.

Saw that the other day. Very very last resort as its so pricey.

No worries, if the sale falls through PM me. Cheers.

RB26 SOLD!

Got another AAC / Idle Air Valve For Sale?

Hello all, I'm chasing an IACV / AAC Valve Block to suit an RB26. I'm fairly sure they are the same on all RB26's. Must be in good condition, working and not damaged. If you've got a plug for it that would be great as well. Happy to pay for postage. Item i'm after looks like this; PM Me Thanks, Daniel.

I installed a set on the weekend. No ptoblems. Direct fit. I just followed the MINES install instructions. I did have to make up a tiny spacer for the very front mounting hole and drill and tap a hole.

0-25mm Micrometer should only be around $70 - $90 for a pretty good one. I bought a Starret 25-50mm unit a few weeks back for $99. To check the bore's you really do need a proper bore gauge, and you don't want to go out and buy one of them unless you plan on rebuilding many engines in the future. Would be a costly tool i'm sure. Really your cheapest option for sure is to buy a second hand engine as been said in many of your other posts. Buy second hand engine, spend money putting new exhaust studs on it, water pump, timing belt kit etc and put it in. Yes i understand you want to rebuild your engine, but if your bores are out then your going to have to bore it and get new pistons anyway. Then the snow ball begins....

I do like these kits! But, the other thing you could do, If you have room and IF your dry sump pump supports it (Maybe you have an Aviaid that ROSS stocks and sells), is to mount a power steering pump onto tthe back of the dry sump pump, seen it a few times now on RB's. But if you have a 4 or 5 stage pump, you may already be super close to the engine mount and won't be able to fit the power steering pump on the back. If this is the case then you'll have to use the HID belt kit or idler kit for the factory power steering pump setup.

Hmmm, if the head is off then you may as well do a bit of work to it. Don't bother with an N1 pump. Especially not a new one as they tend to fail. If your not going to put a crank collar on, just use the stock RB25 oil pump. Baffled sump is a very good idea IMO, restrictors - does depend on pump size, but if your using a stock RB25 pump, i think 2x 1.5mm restrictors will be good, seeing as its a street and track car and you have hydraulic lifters. Unless you have a NEO engine and in which case your restrictors are approximately 1.27mm factory anyway. Drilling out the 5x 8mm holes in the block and head to 9.5mm can be a good idea. Rear head drains, well theres a huge debate on whether it actually does anything or not, some say it doesn't, some say it does, some say its an oil drain, some say it acts as just a breather. Try and better baffle your cam covers, then plumb them into a well thought catch can. To prevent failure of the oil pump, i suggest you fit a brand new OEM harmonic balancer when your re-assembling the engine. It is a serviceable part and should be replaced. There's a lot you can do, but how much time do you have and what do you want to spend.

Seen that kit before, looks alright apart from the $2k price tag.

Point taken. So, join them up or weld them up then. Same obviously goes if your deleting the heater obviously. While semi on the subject of coolant. Coolant filters, yay or nay?

Reason being? Just curious as to why you'd need to join them? I looked into this a while back, an RB20 runs a similar type cooling setup under the plenum but with no oil cooler obviously. Blocking the ports for the oil cooler would in fact mimic an RB20 cooling route setup under the plenum. Hence why i'm curious as to why you said join them together.

The only downfall i can see with these is they are a damn big coil. Mounting 6 of these may not be the easiest to do so. But i do like, and these have risen to the No 1 on my most likely coil to buy for my setup.

Very small gap though. Probably not getting the most efficient burn.

They look like awesome coils. No CDI or igniter unit required. Less to go wrong? How have they performed for you rob? Why do you not like CDI systems? Because of the electrical interferance and low dwell time?

El bumpo

No worries, do you think you have oil coming out of your rocker covers?

Yeah ok, ummm fix where you've got the fittings in the sump, they must be put up higher. Get rid of the foam, that single baffle plate looks okish. I'd put two 1" breathers on the tank as well, as high as possible. Ideally, you want your catch can return to return to the sump, but never be covered with oil that is forced to the side of the pan under G forces. The oil, if any that spews out of the rocker covers into can, if any should be able to flow to the bottom of the tank as easy as possible with the vapours having a very easy outlet to atmosphere, but having a good baffling system to prevent the oil getting out the breathers as well.

So where exactly is the oil spewing out? The breather in the catch can? I can see for a start, you need much bigger breathers in the catch can. I'm going to put my money on the location of the drains to the sump though. The more i think about the more i suspect it.

How big is the can? I'd pull the foam out and make up some proper baffles for it. So the oil gets trapped in the can and works it way down to the bottom, but the air pressure can easily vent. Passenger side can be considered the low pressure side of the crankcase, but the bigger issue is on an RB the LH side of the sump sits a fair bit lower than the RH side as its slanted to the left. You should really try and put those fittings at the very top of the sump line, right below where it bolts to the block. Better yet, changing it to the RH side. You could plum it into the turbo drain, but that could also restrict the ability for the oil to drain from the turbo. You could try putting it into the 'VCT drain" forwards of the engine mount. Just delete that drain from the head all together (NEO's never had them) or try and tee them together.