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kitto

SAU SA Club Member
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Everything posted by kitto

  1. Got a set of R34 coil packs here. Really good nic. PM me if your interested.
  2. Yes. Bolts on. S1 just has the progressive throttle linkage and different TPS shaft.
  3. Sounds like you've got a S2 RB25, you can't switch the RB20 TPS over to the S2 RB25 throttle body. You'll need an RB25 Series 1 throttle body, the RB20 TPS will bolt straight on. I'm not sure if the TPS share the linearity, You may be able to wire in the RB25 TPS. TPS work by sending a 0-5V signal to the ECU. The voltage sent to the ECU depends on the amount the throttle is open. 0% = 0.5V approximately, 100% = Close to 5V IIRC.
  4. Yep. I do. Really good condition. PM me. Cheers.
  5. Yep. Wrong. All NEO 25DETs have N1 pumps from the factory. Still short nose crank though. They have a higher oil pressure relief spring. Its a debate as to whether they flow more or not. N1 has a different tooth design though. It is 'waved' and not symmetrical.
  6. Engine should have been run in moderately hard on first start up (if possible - obviously check for leaks or any issues on the first start up) and then straight into loading the engine up. Full loads are moderate varying RPM and light boost conditions. Idle should have been the last thing to look at. Do a compression test and leak down test and that will give you a good indication. Then try running it in properly and then once that is done, do another leak down test.
  7. Ye p. I've got a NEO so I know. It was never opened before I got the engine. Came out of a stock GTT with 39k on it. Measuring the stock restrictors the size is approx !.27mm. Nissan pretty much fixed the size if the restrictor on the NEO. Because they use an N1 pump factory, have solid lifters and VCT. They worked out that smaller restrictor was sufficient.
  8. Eh, I don't really know if the RB26 goes better than the NEO head. Let's face it, unless you really want Twin turbos and ITBs, there is no reason to ditch the NEO in favour of the 26.
  9. What plugs are you using and gap? OEM or split fires.
  10. In fact it is you who is wrong. Nope Yeah, thought it would be a two harness gauge. Hence my original post. Yes, earth the rad pipe adapter. Yep, as i thought it would work. You should have been given a wiring diagram anyway.
  11. Yep... I decided to build a NEO over an RB26. Cent say no to VCT
  12. Red to threaded section, black to ground, close by to the sensor itself. Gauge gets 12V+ to it, with a possible separate ground or it grounds through the sensor ground.
  13. Let me know how you go. If i have problems with my ROSS balancer i'm going to chuck the shits with it and put an ATI unit on. I did have an ATI unit a while back, but because no trigger disc setup existed i bought a ROSS. See how we go.
  14. Nice, now if you could get it to work 100% with the ROSS hall effect sensor bracket that would be sweet.
  15. Fairly sure intake ports are different. Intake manifolds are different, unsure about stud pattern.
  16. Shit rims are uber shit lol.
  17. It wasn't a copy and paste buddy. After all i'm just an electrician that is specialised in the industrial automation field, what would i know about the dangers of AC and DC huh. Yeah, typical engineer's attitude. Honestly i'm over arguing with you, you seem set in your ways. Good luck. Yes, this is most definitely possible, Its possible and has happened from 6V batteries before. It depends on a few factors, sweat on your hands, humidity etc. The higher the voltage, AC or DC, the easier it is for current to flow through you.
  18. Overkill for what i need, Rocket industries are pricey. Thats because your into car audio, they all use AWG. So much trend for following Americans. Standard building wire, either in solid or stranded core as an Australian standard not in the Automotive industry is done in mm2. Why am i using mm2 wire? Because its what i use everyday, i know what each size cable is rated too and i get it for free. Why would i use AWG? Not entirely true. The very cheap cable becomes brittle and deteriorates quickly. You shouldn't be running wiring in an area of the engine bay where its stupidly hot anyway. Ok, umm this is stupid quote of the day, AC and DC have different electrical characteristics yes. If you think for one second that DC won't kill you, you a dead wrong buddy. DC is more dangerous than AC in the fact that DC Causes your muscles to contract and will not let you un-contract. Your muscles overheat very quickly and begin to burn up. You then begin to spasm. DC will give you a friggen boot so painful you won't know what the hell happened. Ahh but you say i can touch a 12V battery, both terminals no problem. Thats because you need approximately 50V DC or AC to penetrate your high resistive skin. 50 - 100mA of current (AC OR DC) passing directly over your heart is enough to kill you. At around 40mA your heart begins to fibrillate (makes your heart go out of time) causing very bad chest pain. After this, most people's heart fail and they die. This is electrocution. AC current goes from peak high, back through zero to peak low 50 times a second here in Australia (50Hz), this causes the muscles to contract - un contract and so on. A person is usually able to let go or move away from the source that is giving them the electric shock. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter if its AC or DC or even what voltage it is. It is the CURRENT that kills you. Although, the higher the voltage, the MUCH easier it is for you to receive an electric shock or die. The higher the voltage, the easier it is for current to pass through you. In voltages that in the high kV area, if your on the ground and you get close to one of the conductors, you dont even need to touch it, the high voltage will jump the gap, travel through you down to earth, killing and vaporising you at the same time. And you said your an electronics engineer? I would have thought you should know a lot about this... http://www.noob.us/m...dia-disturbing/ This is a man in India, that dies from his body coming into contact with the overhead DC conductor. Yes, DC is dangerous and not to be treated lightly. When i am working around a battery bank that is above 48VDC it worries me more than working around 400VAC three phase. This one is a no brainer.... Maybe viable.
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