kitto

He actually wants 450kW @ all 4, not at the rears. So in excess of 500-550kW at the flywheel. 1600cc injectors to be safe?

You could do this or fit an external oil pressure regulator. Means you have to weld an AN fitting to your sump though for the return from the external oil pressure regulator. Which means pulling the sump off anyway. 115 PSI is very high at idle. How tight was the engine built? What viscosity oil are you using? I assume its 115PSI idle pressure when cold? What is it when the engine is hot?

If you end up doing the conversion. I've got an AFM and Injectors if you want. Both in really good conditiion.

Timing belt http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HKS-TIMING-BELT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-RB20-RB25-RB26-/130730338076?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7022a71c#ht_1887wt_1064

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/images/Pid=1163.html Judging by the picture, i'm going to say its either a metric or NPT plug. I would say metric though. Probably M14x1.5 Really hard to see though. Note, that is not an RB fuel rail. But HKS would have made them all very similar.

Can you upload a photo of it? It wont be an AN thread, it'll be either NPT or O ring port. Most after market fuel rails have O ring ports threaded into them, then you just simply thread in an O ring port to AN size of your choice adapter.

I would expect it to be just a -10 oring port. LIke this http://www.powerflowperformance.com.au/adapters-plugs-caps-plugs-caps-ring-allen-plug-c-141_176_199.html

Price Drop RB26 - $1700 CP Pistons - $750 Carrillo rods - $1350

Why not use rb26 crank and pistons to get the proper compression ratio. 8.2:1 is a tad low. Rb25 and rb26 rods are the same, although rb26 are stronger. Don't bother cleaning up any casting marks inside the block. Make sure all the oil and water galleries are free of swarf. Inspect and replace welsh plugs. What machine work did you have done?

It sold weeks ago...

Who wants a cheap RB26 and some really good forged pistons and rods?

Maybe put some actual info up about what you have for sale and where and how MUCH???!!!! Where are you located How much for each item. What model GTR is the power steering pump of off, thats right they are different! Details!

No idea where in Sydney but it shouldnt cost you much more than $100 - $150 I would have thought. You really should balance the flywheel and clutch pressure plate (not the friction plate as well) as an assembly.

R34 RB25 is a NEO. Different coil packs again. 'Series 1 and 2' won't work

I bought a similar one from these guys, havn't used it yet but it looks the goods.

RB26 head bolts sold. Ross, pistons, balancer, rb26 engine etc all still here people.

Yeah and f**ked your engine.

Ahh ignorance is bliss... :s

RB26 Block, crank and girdle sold.

PMs replied to. Stock dumps

According to Andrew from Nitto. If your using a nitto pump and collar, expect a total of 10 - 12 thou clearance. This acceptable. Some of the various pump gear and collar clearances have been as much as 30 thou!

Does it even pop or show any hint of firing? If it doesn't i'd check for spark. Is your ignitor plugged in properly, coil packs plugged in properly?

We like to use a hub dyno because nothing such as tyre pressure, tyre grip, wheels size, wheel width, tyre temperature etc etc can effect the outcome. Its always the same, no ifs or butts. If you use Temperature correction then the results are as real as they come. YES there is a difference between power at the hubs and power at the wheels. Personally i dont care if its making less than XX kW @ the wheels. Personally i want the most accurate figure possible so the tuner can do his job even better. The torque accuracy of the hub dyno is second to none. It calculates diff ratio and will give you the actual torque created at the flywheel by the engine. MPH times really aren't an accurate way of proving or dis proving a car/engine setup. Far too many variables. Different drivers, different cars, different suspension setups, different tyres, reaction times the list goes on. Just because a car makes a gazillion kW on a dyno doesn't make it the be all and end all. But on the flip side a car that only produces a 'low' power output doesn't make it a car that can't perform and put serious numbers down.

Nothing wrong with that. As long as it has corners you can take at speed thats all that counts. Unlike events like power cruise

Thats because MPH readings are over in 13 seconds... Dragging the average uleh commodore isn't that appealing. Sprinting is where its at. I'll do the 1/4 mile one day, but i actually have to get my car back together before i can do any event lol.