LotusGTR

Brakes are off one of these. Not 100% sure what it is but it's a works Audi R8 Le Mans / endurance racer of some sort.

Troy, this one's for you.

Just saw this post now. Sorry for late reply. It's been a while since I was dealing with all of this but after pretty much making sure all the front brake and suspension components were new I no longer have a problem........Replacing the bearings was a bastard of a job. I didn't do it personally, but I sure paid....

Here is the FXXy thing in the flesh. Never mind the Fez, what about that tasty little Renault in the background eh? That's my ride

Will post up pics of the 599 FXX I saw at the Nurburgring a couple of weeks ago. The noise they make is insane. You rent them from Ferrari for around 1.5m Eruo per annum and they turn up at a track of your choice with full pit crew. They take it away at the end of the day, until your next track day. Beyond that I'm not sure of the details but it's an awesome bit of kit. Unfortunately it never passed me on the track (due to non coinciding laps.....or just my sheer speed?) as a flyby would have been awesome.

I have 18 by 9 +20 and they look supurb. Perfect offset and width for a 32 GTR.

You spin a bearing on the track and you're looking at a big bill to fix it properly....say what you paid for the car in the first place.....and you very well might. You add semi slicks into the mix and cornering forces will exacerbate oil control issues, and stress the brakes out. Things go pop on the track as it is a very harsh environment. GTR bits are not cheap and you will be replacing 'something' per track day in my opinion. Not a budget choice taking a GTR to the track, no matter how cheap it was to buy. Don't get me wrong I've got 2 of the suckers and one is for the track and I love them, but by no means is this is budget option.

Turbs sold. Anyone for the dumps?

Do you mind me asking why you're selling?

nah mate, I've got better offers. Cheers.

Well here is the final result. Splitfires Garrett -7 turbs (which I note from another thread are now not in vogue......) Tomei adj cam wheels R34 GTR dumps G-Reddy Profec B II EBC Nistune Blitz front pipe Std Nissan Cat Some sort of Jazma cat back 285RWKW @ roughly 18psi. Dyno chart attached. Very nice set up it is too. Thanks to Status. 1382_001.pdf

1992 R32 GTR Unopened motor - 180,000klms Splitfires Garrett -7 turbs Tomei adj cam wheels R34 GTR dumps G-Reddy Profec B II EBC Nistune Blitz 70mm - 80mm front pipe Std Nissan Cat Some sort of Jazma cat back 285RWKW @ roughly 18psi. Dyno chart attached. Very nice set up it is too. Thanks to Status. 1382_001.pdf

$250. Located in Melbourne SE. I'm no expert but they came out of my car and were working fine I can arrange for you to talk to the tuner who took them out if needs be - they are known and respected on this forum I just installed some new Garrett items Inspections welcome Make your own mind up about their condition Rear turbo seems 'dirtier' than the front Definitely suitable for hi-flow Will post at your cost PM or reply to thread if you're interested.

+30 back and front.

Trent, if you're watching this, this is also happening to my car. I'm very pleased to have found this thread as the description of what is happening is way better than what I would have come up with and is spot on. Almost exactly at the time I get full water temp, the 'niggle' disappears. You may want to get it hooked up to the computer whilst cold and see what's happening at light throttle / low revs.... Ohno1, my car is getting some work done (including a tune) in a couple of week's time so if we un-earth the problem I'll let you know what it was.

After much sweating the cam gears finally arrived this morning. That's 10 working days or twice the stated delivery time from Austrlia Post. Worth considering Express or Registered next time. Packaging good and exactly as described. Thanks.

Sent! and for me too please - info on the R32

Check my topics. Had a thread going not so long ago that you may find useful. There is even someone who speaks specifically on the Trust items. I'm currently running R32 dumps and will be swapping them out for R34 items as I'm changing my turbs anyway. I can't see how they wouldn't help, but it all comes down to cost of fitting vs benefit. 380 is a pretty good figure!

Hmmmmm.

Should have just posted the pics up sooner! Appreciate all the help and feedback. Been a good learning curve and in the end I've got what I need anyways, so thanks to all contributors.

Thanks but that's all too hard for me. Bumper stickers are my limit, but good to know they can be adjusted. Just a matter of finding someone who can do it for me and for how much.

Ok, so assuming yep means they are adjustable, given the casing seems to be a sealed unit I'll have to assume that adjusting the shaft length is where the adjustment takes place. If so, the next question is how much & where from. Wouldn't mind knowing the process of how they're calibrated either, but I have a feeling that could be hard and long and boring to explain. There are a pair available on the forum for $200 set to 15psi done by CRD on the bench, with little use since they were done, so my guess is that these are a good option (as long as they are what they're said to be). Thanks for all your input so far.

Yeah, I guess it does. Here are some pics of mine. Any chance they're adjustable? The 'head' looks to be sealed but there is adjustment on the shaft where it meets the wastegate lever.

GCG. Thanks for the link. Muchacho cheaper. There is a second had set at 15 pise going for $200 locally which I could also pick up. Cheers.

Just to open this back up again, I've had a chat with the guy who sold me the turbs (been doing turbs for 20 yrs and supplies Racepace among others) who reckons that yes it's best to mod the actuators, but the cost benefit is not worth it. Said all his tuner / engine builder customers rarely if ever order them with upgraded actuators, which is interesting. Said the EBC should be able to double the mechanically set level. Also said the changing the actuators after turbo fitment is not a big job (seems pretty tight down there to me) so just to try the standard ones and if it's a problem then upgrade later..... Actuators are $450 plus freight, so not a small sum especially when added to all the other 'small sums'. So, I keep the 10psi actuators, fit an EBC and target 18psi. The EBC has to work 'more' to achieve this. So what are the implications of this? It finds it harder to control things? Isn't able to hold or control the boost? Finally, anyone got a view on replacing the actuators with the turbs in situ? Thanks.