LotusGTR

Could that be why my heater doesn't run full hot? I think you posted in my thread about that too.....

It's not that precise in terms of how it happens. Since the cold start issue has been resolved it starts nicely / normally and idles fine. Its after you've pulled away and given it a couple of gears and even out to a cruise that it starts. Yesterday was the worst it's been. I was driving home from work and it was about 10 degrees ambient. I have a short drive from my car spot to a set of lights and at the lights it nearly stalled. Idle was unhappy. Got going and it did it's stuttering thing until the temp gauge started to register. All was good from there. So you're thinking it's tune related and not mechanical by the sounds of things.

So, I've got an R32 GTR and it's playing up a little in the colder weather. I thought it was tune related as there was a cold start problem, but Trent has given it more fuel and that problem has gone now. Essentailly the residual problem is now whilst the engine is cold and under light throttle it seems to miss or hestitate a little.....It might be 4th gear 60km/h even throttle. Always sorts its self out once warmed up. No problems under power. Now it has new plugs, new coilpacks, -7s, Nistune and as Trent had it hooked up to the computer only late last week I'll assume all is well with the tune side of things. The engine is healthy as a recent compression test showed 165 across all cylinders. Any thoughts as to what may be causing this? Thanks.

Hi Ladies and Gents, just subscribing to this thread.

Black looks sensational. Much better than the white. Your MX5 is something I want to do...

Well I've spoken with Meridian and Brown Davis and cost estimates and advice are pretty much the same. It seems state based rules on cages will be replaced with a national code in the next year or so, which will be more onerous. But the 'rally rego' option will become more accessible and less costly so this will balance things off. This is apparently the way of the future. Overall I'm fairly confident of getting what I want in this area. If the 32 GTR is the way to go then I'm pretty sure I understand what to do now to prep the car. My last niggling doubt is when I see things like later model cars with less mods and power / performance and I wonder if something like that is more the way to go (hypothetical e.g. late model Mini). I guess my fear is with limited support crew options that I have (at this stage) I may be asking for a short and not very sweet experience. How much support would I realisitically need and would this requirement diminish with a different vehicle type? Is a handy mate with a car and a boot full of select spares and tools enough? What is realistically required? I know this comes down to things like budget, quality of prep, general resources, but can you give me a steer on this area? Does anyone go to this type of event unsupported?

Cheers very much. Ordered!

So, here is a bung I got from my tuner. I need another and also to know what diameter to drill it and to what pitch, so as to fit the R32 sensor. Or, any ideas where to buy these off the shelf with the hole drilled / tapped? I'm told these should be available on ebay but I cannot find. I understand that the Silvia guys had early late / big small model O2 sensors so should be available? Any further thoughts?

Your first para will be my approach. Meridian are 99% sure it ain't ever going to be legal. Side intrusions, double diagonals in the main hoop and the diagonals in the roof are the culprits apparently. Let's see what BD say and go from there.

lol at the small pipe. It's so uncommon to see, it kind of looks comical. Hope these help. No rice, keep it stock looking but for wheels and stance. Not tooo aggressive on the oeffsets though (waits to be flamed)

Hi Serge, yes that was me. Thanks for the tips. I'm going to investigate the cage very thoroughly. I've read VSI #28 and will hopefully speak with Brown Davis and Merdian today. The VSI confirms Roy's suggestion that the height of the seat bolster may be the answer to getting around the side intrusion bar issue. Hopefully given my start point is a pretty much roadworthy car, if I can get the cage right it'll continue to be that way. Cheers.

Any ideas on where to source these? I know you can do without the O2 sensors but have briefly discussed with my tuner and have decided I want to use them. Attached is a picture of the bigger R34 apeture into which I assume you screw & weld the smaller insert to suit the R32 sensors. Thanks.

I guess when you think about it the cage is the only aspect of prepping the car that can't easily be undone. I'm going to be talking to Brown Davis and Meridian regarding cages, so I'll let them know we need to build them 'carefully' in my conversations with them. Any others I should consider? I also know a Vicroads approved certifying engineer so I might see what he can tell me about this area. Lol at the words 'may' and 'deem'

So, you take a road registered car (more than likely anyway) then you strip it out and throw in a cage, fixed back seats, harnesses etc. Potentially you drive to the event and back, and to the mechanics. You might even sprint it too. Drive to the track and back. If you got a little reckless you might even take it out on a Sunday a.m. blast. You wouldn't drive it to the pub on a Saturday night....Or do most trailer them everywhere even though they're registered? So, is it pure luck you don't eventually get pulled over and the car effectively taken off the road for being (very obviously) illegal? You then have an unregistered car, or go for rally rego, which requires you have a rally license and is legal for CAMS events only? Is this how it is? Or is my assumption that all those mods are illegal not true? How does this side of things stack up? And on it goes working everything out! Cheers.

Thanks Stuart. I'll email.

OK guys, I've got enough of a handle on the car thing, so let's move on to appropriate licensing. I've got the usual CAMS LS2 license, so where to from here. Helen at Octagon has suggested attending this http://motorsportacademy.com.au/ which is for a whole weekend and in SA......It's hard enough getting time to do the prep and the events let alone weekends away in SA for driver training.....So, I want to get this done with minimum hassle and cost if possible. Having said that if some of these courses offer genuine learning experiences that will add to my enjoyment, safety, smooth running, competitiveness then I'm open to investing. I do not want some Jim Murcott driving school experience (which I did when I was 18 and it was a yawn then) where I get taught threshold braking and what under and oversteer is. It's got to have teeth or I may as well just go the quick and dirty route. What are my options chaps? I can drive, I'll just need to prove it to someone and hopefully learn something along the way. Cheers.

Thanks for the welcome....though this is still an idea more than a reality. You got to start somewhere though. Re the naviagator, this is a big building block for me to have in place for this to be a reality. This was the next area of investigation once I got the whole car thing sorted (which in broad terms I think I have i.e. R32 GTR = good car for the event). Octagon have said they'll find me a nav if I can't for myself, but outside of them, SAU is my best network for this so I'll gladly hear from anyone who thinks they may want a chat with me.

Ah, I've just re-read point 12 under General Regs and it says 'the limits of modifications allowed are specified herinafter'. I think this is the key clause as this seems to say to me that unless it is specifically mentioned in points 13-86 (plus the supp regs too), you can't do the modification. Is this how it is interpreted? I just can't see anything specifically about suspension arms etc as you suggest Duncan. I just want to make sure I've got my head around the regs and how they work.

Thanks for that. I actually tried to download this yesterday, without success. I subsequently rang Helen @ Octagon and she emailed it to me. I've read it and yes, my car in in LMS but Helen was suggesting MS.......she did say the technical director was away....So, I'll assume LMS. I'm very pleased to see 2" increase in wheel size and diameter is permitted as my brakes can be accommodated. As an aside I was told there are a new set of regs to be publshed any day now that accommodate Wrestpoint, High Country and Targa Tas. I'm suprised at how few restrictions there are, and hope I'm reading in the right places. So far, General Regs on their pages 15-21, then Early Modern on pages 22-24, then Modern LMS on page 25....Perhaps someone can confirm these are the right places? Some questions as follows: Typically what tyres are used. Semi comps / R specs? It mentions isolations switches as recommended (which suprised me). Do I assume I've got to get one? Confirming their main purpose as in an accident you can turn everything off? Towing eyes. I can remember the rear ones (which will need a paint up) and where are the fronts? Perhaps this is something I'll need to get done.... ROP I'm thinking Meridian or Brown Davis, but if there are any specific requirements then please let me know

your words are still ringing in my ears.

Where is your old man's car advertised? Why LMS and not MS? Just the way it is? Re turbs I'll have to double check them as they could be N1. Kinda gets confusing when somebody else does the work.

Guys, this is the beginning of me looking at entering Targa Tas. It'll take a fair bit of time and effort to get there, and there will be many things I've got to sort along the way. Today I'm wanting to deal with vehicle selection. I have an R32 GTR that would be great for it (IMHO), other than I've been told it's 'too nice' to do that to. Built engine (to orginal specs), N1 turbs, coilovers, 3 sets of wheels. I'd have to add cage, seats, harness, navigation gear and I reckon it's just about there. I'm guessing I'll be in category 8, early modern, MS. I'm OK at driving and find this car very benign and predictable and would be confident in taking it there, and brining it back. I'm wondering what other choices I could make though. I could buy one already prepped, buy a shitter and do it up, look outside the world of GTRs. If I was looking for alternatives, where are good places to look. My 105? Autosports? Here? I realise there are many other areas that need addressing in participating in this event, but I'd like to start the investigation with a suitable vehicle type. I have only done sprints (say 10) and recently-ish did 1.25 at Sandown - to give you some sort of an idea of me as a driver and the car's capabilities. Have driven the Burger Ring - didn't crash! Never done tarmac rally but need little convincing it's something I'd really enjoy. More topics to come. Your input is appreciated.

Post 18 of this thread shows my car running an eboost 2. It has rpm input so you should be able to get it to hold full boost all the way to the redline. Mine does. Like Ash says, your tuner should be able to fix this and you shouldn't need another EBC. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ds-t280020.html

Interesting. I'm currently running 245 RE55s on the R34 GTR rims which are 9" +30. I also run 265 RE01Rs, whch are a road tire (as i'm sure we all know) and I reckon physically size the same as the RE55s @ 245. I'm told the 9.5" are good for 265 RE55s, so if you wanted to I'd bet you could go higher with road tires. Tyres all have a pretty straight side wall, tapering in a tiny bit. So, minimum 265 roadies, almost certainly 265 RE55.

Well guys I certainly appreciate your feedback. You know what, I was hoping I could use the +12s as a) the spokes will look better and b) there is a set for sale with tyres with no wait and at a fairly reduced price, but for me it's just not going to happen. I'm not lipping my guards (questions, do you have to pull the guard liners by lipping?), I can't be bothered doing track days and finding out I've got clearance issues and then having to stop my day and get it fixed and I personallly think there is such a thing as too aggessive. Some of the photos above fit that category for me (the night shot on the orange GTR). +22s still have the concave look, albeit not quite as aggressive. There was heaps of point to this thread as for me nobody has been able to convince me +22 is not the way to go considering my preferences and requirements, so I will buy happily now. Check out the attached blue car from GTROC. This is the look I'm afraid of with +12. These are 18 x 9.5 +15 and remind me a lot of the RE30s I trial fitted with the offset in the teens. Too much. Silver one is my car with 9 +20 which for me works well. Try and keep the flaming to a minimum. I'm not trying to have an arguement with you blokes