LotusGTR

I'd be interested to know if / how this can be done and at what cost / consequence.....

I think we all know what this relates to...lol

Dunno really. Those items are 20 years old on my car so yes, could be the castor rods with bearing ends, and yes could be 20 yrs of wear and tear

Already got the inner adjustable bushes. The outer one going on what I saw and the diagram don't look like bushes. They look like some sort of ball joint........to me any way.

Well they have something on the end of the upper arm. Nissan part # 40160 AR510. Needs to be pressed in and out. Seen it with me own eyes! Must be called something else. Care to enlighten? See diagram in post #2, it's called a third link?

Well I've got new wheel bearings, a new passenger side lower outer ball joint, a new / secondhand front drivers side CV shaft (mine was worse for wear), lightly skimmed rotors, and lots of money out of my bank account. Upper ball joints have some play but there wasn't the time to sort these this time around so I'll have the cross my fingers that the work done has sorted this out....... Nothing worse than spending money on this that aren't exciting.......

Well in my case both bolt and weld in the actual cages are fully welded and fed in through the doors (must triple check this). Bolt in is $300 more than weld in. Bolt in means you can easily remove the cage if you no longer track the car, you want to sell it without too many cues you tracked it and you can on-sell the cage (i.e. it has some residual value). So the questions are how long are you keepng the car, will you always track it, how do you feel about selling the car with a cage. I'm lead to beleive there is no safety difference with either method for the type of cage I'm looking at.

Righto, some more questions: Bolt in or weld in? Will a paint finish be durable enough (it's cheaper than powdercoating)? How necessary are the front intrusion bars?

Thanks for the replies. Very helpful.

Awesome replies guys. Really helpful. I don't want to splash the quote I've got all over the forum but if you feel like you can meaningfully comment on it, can you let me know, and I'll PM it to you. It's the fixing of the seat that seems much more complex than I thought it might be. There is up to $544 of 'extras' to fit the seat. I've requested that the seat is adjustable back and forward so part of this is new runners but............. Thanks again guys. Great support.

Hi Ben. Sorry for posting pics of your car!! We've actually spoken a while ago. You car was 'maybe' up for sale when I bought mine (06) and we had a quick chat about it. I think I'm right for photos as I've got a fair idea of what goes where now and the kind of fit / finish to expect. Like you I'd not want the interior too chopped around.

Yes and thanks. I think I sat in a GP90 last night. I'm waitng for a full quote (gulp) from them so will see how this goes. Photos I posted are supplied by Meridian (they're very helpful).

Guys, I had a long chat with Meridian yesterday and woulbe be comfortable buying from them, but it's good to have some different perspectives and opinions (and it pays to shop around), so where else do you go for this kind of gear? Thanks.

Yeah, I drove my car this morning as was checking that out. I suspected what you've said about the straps and the neck. Makes you wonder why Nissan put the hole there in the first place other than wank factor (which should never be underestimated!) I think the cage / seat matching comment was made as the height of the side bars needs to match the top of the seat sides. They ideally should line up so you can support yourself on the bar whilst lowering yourself into the seat. I guess it can be done 'generically'. I'll double check this. Pics attached of the (proposed) cage and the front bars. It's my understanding that no trim mods are required on the door skins, but I'll double check.

I'm glad you pointed out the matter of how a seat improves the drive as I wanted to discuss that too. I'll never swaps seats as I just couldn't be bothered. I guess if from a safety and drivability perspective I need to find a seat that ticks enough boxes on the street and on the track. Let's not forget that even if the car is 99% track driven, it'll be driven to the track, and tracks are not always that close to where you live. I know it's a bit soft but I CBF driving 6 hours to and from track, as well as track time in a seat that is very restrictive. I guess it comes down to what I can find that ticks boxes better than the std seat considering my needs.

I'm looking at a half cage for my 32 GTR. I do track days regularly enough and the family are enquiring about what happens if I turn the car over....... It'll be a welded number with front intrusion bars. I had a fairly in depth chat with the cage builder who said the intrusion bars need to be done with the seat in mind.....I wasn't thinking of getting a seat immediately but I guess it's the next logical extension of the cage, and being on the track. Once you've gone this far, may as well get a harness too. It can / will be set up so the intertia belt can still be used on the road. Now my car does get road driven so this stuff is not like a total no brainer. I'm a big fan of the std GTR seat. So comfy and so grippy, is original and costs me nothing.... So, has anyone run harnesses with the std seat? It has an aperture in the head rest so you'd think this is what it's for. From a safety perspective, is not getting a proper fixed back seat a bad move? Another way of asking this is, is the seat and integral part of the overall safety propositon? I don't want to get a cage and discover that whilst it might add some protection, without a proper seat and harness the real gains in safety are not realised. Thanks.

Sorry to hi-jack, but what about rotating front to rear (same side). Assuming moderate and even tread wear on some RE55s - same all around. I've got a little scrubbing on the fronts so hence the need (a little driving style and a little set up related)

They my old rims all fixed up?

Appreciate the feedback.

Am going to Better Brakes in Cheltenham. I do not recommend them personally as I have yet to deal with them. 9585 0455. They do not have a workshop i.e. you need to pull the bits off and supply them to them. Same day rotor skimming service. Pick up and drop off.

Good example Gary. The rotors are coming off anyway, so the hubs will be checked as a matter of course. I'll be sure to post the result.

I've found one.

Nah, happens across different rims and tyres, and I've not flat spotted anything.

SBS ‘Dual Carbon’ or ‘Carbon Ceramic’. I can't quite remember. They're Danish (Scandinavian anyway) made and the brand is most typically used for competition motorcycles. Wierd but the brake guy reckons they're the way to go for me. Link below. http://www.sbs.dk/index.dsp?area=84

They came to my mind too. There is some politics between them and the people who supplied my brake kit (NSW based so I can't 'go' to them), so for that reason (and without making any judgements) I probably don't want to go there. Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks.