Owens

As the bracket on the bottom of my handbreak has snapped, I cant put the handbreak on so I need a replacement ASAP. Doesn't need the leather boot, just the whole handle unit itself. It's usually fitted with just one bolt and a smaller nut for the break cable. Can pick up from Syd area or. Please PM with an offer and photo if possible.

Can't wait! :D:D Hopefully the weather holds off

Spotted a white R33 GTR in Artarmon bunnings carpark tonight. Didn't catch the owner. SAU member by the looks of it Very clean machine

Sent you an PM Sean!

Just spotted 2 x liners on Help Street in Chatswood Gun metal R32 GTR with a SAU sticker on the right rear-quarter Yellow R33 with White LM's (?) and a SAU sticker on the top rear window Kind looked like R32 was raging at the slow ass infront of him lol You guys were about 2 minutes apart from each other at the intersection of Help and Princess Hwy. I was looking down at everyone getting smashed with rain in the brown building on the corner lol

3. Entrant number 183 Owen / Owens / R33 GTR

Can you show me some pics of your setup? Howcome you put a restrictor in? Wouldnt more vacuume be better to suck the gasses out of the cam cover?

Double post

I pretty much tried all those things mentioned above after lots of research. None worked and was the biggest waste of time And then I came across this Zaino Z12: http://www.zainobros.com.au/prod15.htm It just works, its freakin magic. It took me a couple hours to do all my windows, but it was worth it and they look brand new now.

I've had my catch can on now for several months now and havent noticed a single drop being collected in the catch can Here is my current catch can setup: As pointed out in the photo, I've noticed there's a little pool of oil building up in the catch can hose. So I'm guessing it's not getting enough vacuum for the oil to reach the can? The drain plug on the catch can is still capped off and not a single drop of oil has come out when I open it. This is pretty much the same setup as GTRsean's, minus the can draining to the dip stick. Does anyone have any other recommendations or setups? or should I just keep sticking to this? I haven't done any modifications to the PVC/plenum side (if there's any to do?)

As mentioned already, I wouldn't bother with those sensors you mentioned as they're both Titania's There's a difference in the way they are measured by the ECU. Titania's use resistance, Zirconia use voltage. Here is the simplest explanation: http://www.dnd-autom...p/02-sensor.htm Since you have a Power FC, I'm not sure if the sensor plugs in the engine bay would be hooked up on the ECU end. You might have to check this with your tuner, or whoever did the engine conversion. They should be able to test the connectivity between the plugs and get a reading on the ECU. Will save you some hassle and money buying o2 sensors for nothing.

Ok, disregard what I first said at the beginning then Well the sensors I linked to have the rectangle plugs, so it will fit directly on. I'm not sure if you can get NKG sensors with the square plugs or not, that's why I mentioned swapping over the square plug off the old sensor onto one of the new ones. If you are still running 2 sensors then it's a good idea to keep them on the separate channels. Combining the 2 might give false readings to the ECU and wont calculate the correct air to fuel ratio as they're both in different places I'm assuming? Of course this is if you still have the stock ECU. If you're running an aftermarket like a Power FC then it might be programmed to only read one sensor (I could be wrong on this) On a side note, are you still running 2 Air Flow Meters? More pictures and specs of your engine mods might be useful. The instructions I posted above are for a dead stock R33 GTR

I had pretty much the same questions when I was doing my R33 GTR. First off, disregard anything you've read about there being a o2 sensor after the cat converter cause there isn't one there. The only sensor you might find is a exhaust temp sensor, which is completely unrelated. Looks like you've incorporated the RB26DETT wire loom during the engine swap, so disregard that you have a R34 GTT shell. The 2 you found in the engine bay are the right ones If you want the least amount of screwing around with no soldering needed, follow these steps: Buy 2 x of these NKG sensors (OZA395-E2): http://www.kudosmoto...det-p-1023.html Buy an o2 Socket for removing sensors (most definitely needed): http://www.kudosmoto...22mm-p-640.html Unplug the sensors from the harness and trace the leads down to the sensors on the turbo manifold. Remember which plug goes to which sensor. Get a socket wrench with a couple extensions, a universal joint, and the o2 socket so you can reach down to the sensors. Start removing the sensors. The one nearest the front might be the most awkward to get to with the intake pipes in the way. You WILL need a bit of leverage to crack them lose since the manifold expands and contracts under extreme heat. As you've noticed already, one sensor plug is different from the other (square and rectangle). Since both new sensors have the rectangle plugs, you will need to swap over the old square plug onto one of the new sensors. A) To remove the square plug from the old sensor, press a needle down next to each wire. Take note of which wires are black and white. There are little clips inside which holds the wires/prongs in the plug. You will probably have to hold the plug upto the light to see which side the clips are on as they're hard to see. B) Remove the rectangle plug off one of the new sensors in the same way. You will now have 3 bare wires/prongs C) Press each wire/prong into the square plug where the old ones went. The new sensor will now clip into the female square plug on the harness Insert the new sensors onto the manifold and tighten up. Don't over tighten as it will be harder to remove next time you replace them in the future. If you get stuck or confused with any of this, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to explain what to do.

haha nahh I'm doing all the gears. So 4.1L of Shockproof alone for the gearbox. See my previous posts

Cheers. I'm not sure if they have the 3.8 liter bottles. I was gonna get it from JustJap for $98 this sat

Moodles2, what do you put in your front and rear diffs? Need recommendations as I wanna go out this sat to buy it all

Ok So after much reading, I've I'm most likely going with the following for my '96 GTR - What are peoples thoughts? Gearbox: Redline Shockproof Lightweight Gear Oil - 3.8 Liters Transfer Case: Genuine Nissan Matic-D Transmission Fluid - 2 Liters Front Diff: Redline Gear Oil GL-5 75w90 - 1 Liter Rear Diff: Redline Gear Oil GL-5 75w90 - 1.5 Liters Couple of questions though: 1. I remember reading below mentions "85W-90", but I can only seem to find "85W-140" from Penrite, Redline and Castrol, Is this the same or completely different? 2. Is it ok to use the same 75w90 on the front and rear diff? or would it better to use 80W-90 on front and back? Quoted earlier in thread:

Application filled out!

I'll try to get out to spectate after i finish inspecting some apartments.

A bit of a noob question. But what does "smurf blood " consist of? Also, how have people found Motul oil range? Thinking of doing a full change of all the oils soon. So just trying to get a good idea of the best ones to get

Money transferred and receipt emailed to you Matt

I just did my first oil change since putting the valve on. I have to say it's so easy to just jack your car up, slip a bucket underneath and open the valve up. Dion. Great to hear. Hopefully more will pick on these. The valve leaver is spring loaded, so it will be pretty difficult just to tap open. When you receive yours you'll know what I mean. I've had a fair few PM's about how big it is and how far it sticks out. I think there's alot of speculation around this and are worried about it getting 'knocked', so I decided to take a couple photos during my oil change. It's only 1cm longer than the original sump plug. And as you can see, it's still higher up than a lot of other things underneath the liner!

Back hand compliment?

Charlie, right or wrong it's always a good idea to give people a good heads up about these kind of things. A simple observation can go a long way for current customers investing their time and hard earned money.

So I've finally got around to getting the GREX relocation kit. Worked out to be about $260 delivered from Nungen. I didn't bother with getting the cooler kit I've put most of the kit together now so it's ready to install. But I was looking around for where I should mount the bracket for the sandwich plate? Does anyone have any photos or tips for installing theirs? I was thinking of mounting it just under next to the fuse box. But I might have to use some self-tappers to secure it? The bracket included some bolts, so really it should be a full bolt-on kit right?