Carbon 34

after seeing those photos, I may have seen the car on south rd he was heading toward city not 100% sure but look damn close to that one , last weekend in the noarlunga area, gave a wave to the guy driving, he gave me a funny look and the passenger turned while I drove past to see if I was looking back ? guy driving had dark short hair kinda tan looking , oakley style sunglasses, thin face. didnt look real tall, average size. , passenger was bigger guy , but didnt get a good look like I said he seemed to act weird when I waved and now I see the good car photos it may be it ? it looked dirty on sides but not destroyed in anyway like its driven on dirt road kinda dirt, rims were really dirty it may have been it but dont remember any other details at 60kph , think it was around the EMU hotel area

did you notice the screw under the door panel holding it on ? take off door panel and remove phillips head screw which holds the metal clip down, dont loose it. and carefully slide it out, without breaking the front pin off you cant get to the screw without the panel off, and loose. unplug switch first to make it easy to get out.

I do even the cheap ebay double dins can do it I can see up to 4 different video inputs, from anything pal or ntsc and output to at least 4 different screens from my video amp switcher and I can also say see my iphone music on the lower screen , while the satnav is on the top screen on the dashtop. even without the switcher in use. so I can have two dvd sources, two cameras, gps output just on the deck alone with one screen , then add the switcher and you can go nuts , since each screen has a remote to select the video input independant of each other . , they have like a ipod wheel with led to control it , about the size of a 50cent piece Alpine sells one and mine is the knock off from Alpine, same case etc just not the logo..haha and cost a fraction of the Alpine. you can do just about anything with some fiddling and a good installer iphone/pod can do most of your functions without the sensors, anything the ecu can see just about the pod can use , then you can output the pod to video sources , lots cheaper and in some cases more detailed info then the HKS old way

could be both without testing power and grounds and if its getting signal know way to tell buy a digital voltage meter and test it , or take to to get tested. degreasing a engine on a nissan is a death sentence without care, the connections fail really easy in the heat here and crust from salty air, degreaser from kerosene is bad news. and spray tins stain your block anyway, use the natural stuff works better anyhow never on running engine, super hot engine use silicone spray on all electronics connections at the least before and after a big wash up , and tape up or cover things like the CAS, etc when hosing off . dont spray inside the alternator with anything not made for it, and never while running , to risky to fry it never wash it super hot or let water into the plug valley if you can help it , death to coils and ground issues. gauges work by seeing the restance to ground or 0V in most cases. so to little or to much voltage will give you varied readings, a bad sender can do that as well, oil senders can get plugged with crap inside. just 1 drop of water???? , try 1 drop on a pc mother board, watch the smoke its pretty same on anything electronic curcuit based

so turn off your car, no noise in system? whine only when running for sure ? all fans etc off ? yes, take another car hook it up to yours like your going to jump start yours, dont start yours, just turn the switch on to radio position, do you still have whine? your car is off but the other one is running ? if yes, its not your alternator ripple so a filter wont fix it a water battery cant absorb the a/c ripple from the alternator after a year or so , and not legal if your car is boot mounted anyway. it is possible to test for a/c ripple but it needs a car audio person with the gear knowledge to do it near you , and noise chasing can cost a lot !!! if you have access to borrow a battery from somone , try it , do you still have whine ? no ? buy new battery, (forgot which car you have but you need a sealed battery in Rear battery setups anyhow for safety , defects) yes , return battery , that leaves your radio and rca as bad items, you said a stand alone ipod worked fine. ? but did you use the same rca in the car or direct to amp with new rca from headphone jack? if you used same rca as in the car now , then yes you have bad radio, or bad radio ground issues , no noise filter on power lines from sony , for under 100 bucks buy a new radio , sony car radios suck in most cases amp has to have a sanded clean ground with bolt not selftap screw of the same gauge wire as power into amp, does the noise come from all speakers up front ? or just one side ? one side, swap the rca from side to side, did it follow it to the other side now ? yes , buy better rca and run with care pull items , bench test all together , dont use bandaid devices , a new deck cost just a bit more and has warranty still.not worth fixing the sony if its bad unless its a top of the line model hope that helps, the jump start trick will tell you quickly just be sure you know how to jump start a car properly first, not postive to positive , neg to neg, ever, you use the cars grounds on the frame to protect the cars thru the fuses if something goes wrong

watch this spot mate, I have a test for you but not time to write it now. later today the ground was to fix other possible issues not to stop engine noise cold the amp isnt mounted to metal is it does it run the fronts as well ?

yes try the rca cable trick I told you to do outside the car , sometimes the shield can be grounded on metal in the dash or loose. but outside the car to the boot it cant hit it. any old working rca can do it or a cheap as chips one. 8ga or 4 ga ground your alterator bracket to the chassis always it helps in every way besides the stereo..... ground at the factory bolt after you clean the paint rust and crust off. explain your battery age and condition , photos ? where are you pulling power for the deck? does the sony deck have a filter on the power line either one ? remove your antenna jack and test again, ground loops can be front floated grounds in antennas. are you using a diversity spliter on the antenna? is it soldered and taped or plugged in or freq convertor if so remove it if it has one you dont need it on aus decks . I want to point something out not to be the dick head to you ... or say told ya so, but this is one of the installers worse nightmares, a boot full of "free" handme downs , and a previously hacked up car. and engine noise at some point you yank the lot and bench test it on a battery or power supply. we would cringe at it in the first place and bench test everything first to save hairloss the alternator whine can be your battery in bad condition as before. your battery can filter out noise a fair bit. if its corroded or old it wont , does the whine come from sub or which speakers ? deck power or amp powered ones ? what brand of amp. US Audio silver -blue one by chance or sony xplod red and silver one whine can be induced by rca running past ecu or fan motors

so did the two four doors stolen have anything in common, recent service from same person/biz ? show off on same area, website, or anything ? maybe speak to each other to see dont pubish on sau public area and inform police it you find a common item ? can someone answer this, do they run engine number checks at the drift events ? police need to look at the car sn # numbers on engines, trannys , no numbers- no race ? a retired number is ok if it was unregistered as that but ground off #'s, call police time for data dots !!! along with GPS tracking people, it can be done for under 200 bucks and a few bucks a year to recharge the sim card , maintained by you not a service like viper has now in oz you can even shut the car down under a sms command. , its cheaper then old 3g phone and more depenable option since it uses a real gps antenna and cell signal booster. all can be hidden anywhere in the car or even stand alone without alarms interaction and vote for harsher punishment on property crimes damn crims , learn respect for people ffs every school holiday this happens, dont kids have better things to do ????? savages

checker plate, why did they use it , holes to big maybe ? photos would help noise , put a 2 dollar RCA outside the car body and plug into amp from deck, noise gone ? yes, bad RCA or ground loop dont ground RCA either keep the reciept for jaycar , you wont need it if you do below. amp ground must be paint free and decent bolt used. dirty battery teminals or loose can cause noise , a bad /old car battery cant absorb the a/c sinewave ripple from the alterator rather then rewrite the bilble read this, david navone has a bible pdf as well but his site is down right now ten commandments of noise dynamat the whole rear deck steel top , it makes a big difference. !!! and side panels in the rear sides as well, behind the plastic, front doors as well as a starter

I doubt that 100%..... but anyway your speaker specs right off the JL site W6v2 12-inch Subwoofer Driver (600 W, dual 4 Ω voice coils) The 12W6v2 is best used with amplifier power in the 200W - 600W range and is optimized to operate in a 1.25 cu. ft. (35.4 l) sealed enclosure, or a 1.5 cu. ft. (42.5 l) ported enclosure. warranty voided at >600watts per channel RMS http://www.jlaudio.com/12w6v2-d4-car-audio-w6v2-subwoofer-drivers-92121 you sold yourself , buy the JL then its only 100 bucks diff ? I can give you hundreds of better choices but you come back to JL ?

dont do that. use 6X9 if the hole is cut for them or dont install any speakers in back , I think the rear hatch covers had 6x9 cutouts from factory on US models. or some other weird size on the side panels in the rear ? ford used 5x7 and 5.25 and lots of 4" during those years, crutchfield DB shows 4" front and rear but I dont think that right for rears so all speakers will need custom mounts and cutting of steel /plastic think the doors are thin as hell and the magnets hit the glass , I only worked on one in all the years I cant remember cosworth seirra speaker sizes in the rear .... in USA the ford /mercury XRT model cars self destructed inside and out and ended production ended quick smart less then 3 years ,they used a turbo 2.3 Pinto engine, while the euro model had a v6 2.9 ltr , now there on the collectable list , go figure ? go rockford, good stuff , just protect the rear magnet from water on that car.or corrosion will be bad on the fords thin doors and once again on some fords in that time frame you need a radio fit kit, to fill the gaps, back then the radio was the size of a lunchbox,, come to think of it they returned to that now.on the full electronic radios/ac etc..haha and some fords didnt come with wires in the speaker locations back then either, so be warned you would be best to rerun some new and not link behind the dash to factory wires. sending audio from usa , shipping can eat up the benefit of the cost, and you loose your warranty in most cases. watch radios some wont work here . Pandora on pioneer wont work either in OZ without some hacking to mask IP and creating US account for itunes.... some are dodgy dealers ,credit fraud is rapant right now in online companies during hard times in the job market , try to use paypal for safety sake amp wise I wouldnt buy either one on a budget !!! , but if thats the choice I'd buy soundstream. I guess if I read your whole post you asked about custom fabrication, so go splits up front, forget the rears and spend the money on amp/sub. the rear hatch lid can be upgraded easy and cheap without hacking it up , just port the bass thru the holes if it has some already option audio makes a good choice for prefab boxes and subs try to stear clear of the aeropro boxes or simalar , the sound can be pretty average unless you select the right driver to fit the generic box up front you can buy prefab split setups from autobarn , and you can reuse your current door panels without cutting, just reuse the screw holes from factory speakers to hold them on. as long as the magnet doesnt hit the factory door panel your in biz. its worth buying sound baffles for the door speakers just cut them to fit , protects from water and channels the sound into door cavity , you can do some trick work on those to tweek your sound. pm me once you have the gear if you want to know how ?

had isssues with the npc clutch, but a quick call to NPC sorted it out , the dowel pins are made extremely tight when combined with NPC lightweight flywheel. and needed a light tap to clear pins they make them so the ends are tight but fit perfect on the bolt up(angled a tiny bit almost) tested on my nismo flywheel fit easy as no fuss ended up on dyno with 189.7kw @10psi with quick tune and shagged x force cat blocking flow , could easy pass 200kw with new cat and more dyno time on factory pump and injectors

check the antenna is it plugged in still ? on both ends ? and mounted high up , auto mechanic... oh hope he knows what he's doing most dont know alarms at all. best luck mate

thats not the series I would recommend like all brands you have cheap, mid, and high end thats the cheap end of the scale If you made 146db in a single sealed box with 500watts on it or even 1000watts in a Skyline I'd love to see how it was measured, if I run your sub, amp combo and add in gain from the cabin it wouldnt come close to 146db , I had 2 bandpass15's ported into the car thru the ski tunnel in a VR4 Montecarlo with 5 alpine "unregulated model " amps that ran 146db when it crack the windshield from corner to corner. those db numbers normally come from hatchbacks from the shape boost not coupes. ? your sub only handles 600watts so remember JL wont warranty dead subs from burnout of coils ? they have a strict recommended power level and its not 1000watts wihout knowing a lot more I can only chase my tail with ideas , why are you ditching the JL amp brand if its so good ? they cost a mint and arent the best for the money in my book. subs are decent sounding I dont hate JL just think so many better choices to save money and still be happy. I used JL subs in home theatre installs, good back for your buck on cheaper THX systems since your so hung on numbers look for a CEA certified amp, with birth certificates showing power at voltages in that amp, most cost more then cheap models http://www.ce.org/Standards/3108.asp lanzar is on the list , my bass amp certificate shows it produces well over 5000watts at rated voltage at rated ohm load of 1ohm that runs 2 12" ..........7kw watts total

your most likely running 2ohms on your sub so the power is doubled in most cases A regulated amp like some of the Jl is ok for some cases but can hinder performance when the bass hits, the Option amps run a lot more power then the base JL in real world use , they like a lower ohm load then 4 the jaycar amp has even more power and was amp of the year a few years ago. notice its the same heatsink as the option only black ? look at Hifionics , or Earthquake . as well you can get a lanzar amp that walks all over even the highest powered amps in town, and would smoke that sub in 2 seconds flat for your price range , how much room do you want to loose, the new JL or Soundstream or rockford amps are smaller, ? depends on how loud you like it , music type, budget , box design, car its in, etc to do it right ? unbiased

be warned about that company , I have first hand knowledge of " issues " pm for details to not defame in public that lanzar amp is rubbish for subs, and failure rates high in hot climates for that model line. if you look at lanzar only look at Opti, Optimax, Pro models but some wont ship to OZ, dont forget amps cost just about 100 bucks to ship a big one from usa !!! lanzar in OZ can be extremely expensive for those models I would look at Option Audio, jaycar, Boss upper end models, clarion, kenwood, pioneer . right now Option Audio is hard to beat price per watt , and a decent amp but beware of SAU user and eblow sellers of option audio , unauthorized in most cases !!! dont over look Clarion, chris roger sells it off here, its decent or Orion from Ministry of bass ask for simon off here hagle

turbo timers are ADR defects and not needed but for wank factor get one ADR approved for insurance reasons, most companies wont cover you if you dont have one and it gets nicked you dont want a basic alarm on a skyline unless it complies to ADR standards, not to scare you off but it takes less then 30 seconds to take a car with a basic alarm and skylines attract crims like flies to crap welcome to skyline ownership , the car is great just use common sense on where you leave it

take it to the shop that sold it to you or one who carries that brand. no way would anyone here tell you how to remove one in a public forum

I second that , the car hasn't been wired right , and most likey needs more disable points as well replace the remote battery with a decent battery , not cheap as chips one. the remotes are touchy and sometimes leave the battery out for a little while then try again. the remote chris is on channel 1 as stock on that alarm. upper left and right button pushed one at a time to lock, unlock disarm. does the alarm remote see the car , it has the little display on it showiing transmit and receive ? does it show violations, impacts or doors open when armed , if the parkers are flashing when driving the alarm siren is turned off but the alarm is armed. and not seeing the ignition signal. wiring wrong !!! I can't explain why on a open forum , it would give criminals a clue sorry new remotes run near 200 retail in oz for that model but now you can use your iphone or andriod app and ditch the remote with the addition of the new module for GPS tracking /remote start as option ? think that cost about 300-400 not installed and a yearly fee (no idea if that is legal per ADR or not - disclamer) it wasnt in the past plus the battery backup siren is most likely roasted from the sounds of it, it keeps draining the battery .even when you get a new car battery the siren with issues will drain it guick. around $100 for a new one same brand or jaycar special , name brand is best option I think what were saying is be responsible driving..... that extra info on your bad driving habits wasn't nessasary for us to hear to resolve your issues and didnt come across well ? and please use some grammer not net speak abbreviations when asking questions, this goes for everyone on the boards not just you thank you come again

stag on the dinga esply just now, didnt get a good look

yeah 791 eats batterys on the remotes ..lol and they dont like battery discharges on the main car battery , it cuts the life of the backup siren in half every time I see DEI sells the remote start/gps trackers in australia now. havent asked about ADR approval since remote start wasnt legal before in OZ as you said, installed properly it can delay a car theft. as well as any others. but thats where most alarms fail. the install is crap slap job by some ass clown with no pride in there work and loves mad customer returns to "tweek the settings from false alarms or fix bad connections" haha those reading at home ... beware of car dealer ,mechanics or auto electrical people fixing car alarms. a fair few are clueless and will blame the alarm when its nothing to do with the alarm. alarms installed right , failure rates are less then 5% I bet across all the brands combined. except rusty factory pinswitches and remotes run thru the washer .lol they dont fail often unless monkeys play with the wires

I too have been NPC'd by Steve , no idea how it works till next week. had to find another mechanic besides the local ones (muppets) but the day after the clutch the car is being dumped on the dyno so the light flywheel would be a bonus.. the curent one(not NPC) is getting touchy, and slips a bit on hard boost in 3rd , not worried about too stiff, your soft if you cant use a hi pressure clutch in traffic in a nissan , try old skool hi pressure clutches with no hydraulic help now thats a workout in traffic

I beg to differ viper (direct electronics ) alarms are some of the best when installed right. and mechanics dont fark them. but they do need proper sensors to comply with the ghey ADR rules. australia has a horrible amount of car theft for the size country vs. people its disgusting , way worse then USA the back up battery would kill the car battery over time, on any alarm left sitting on . till the battery died in the siren for good. . and since its school holidays ......battery backup alarms cant be silenced by dropping the siren in a bucket of water or sealing in dynamat either. . I tried one so the kids wouldnt have too on my old alarm sitting around for giggles from the sounds of things you need to learn how to drive without loosing your license first, while taking english language grammer .. not all of us read netslang well when we troubleshoot something FFS sell the car and buy a scooter , you dont need remote start in OZ and you sound like a menace on the roads. and chris is right, you need to think about what you wrote, common sense !!!!! let me guess you have photos etc on failbook of the car ? sorry but there has been a rash of thefts in adelaide and this burns my ass when people dont think before dragging the pride and joy into the hood to be fondled by crims overnight

dont advertise on here ?????? let the crims find out first hand

I think you solved your own issue just buy a hammer to fix it..lol brads right most likely R31 do that all the time, also check for dead fuel pump relay, think its a green one on that car. or some nissan use a transistor inside the ecu , which fry with big loads on big pumps bad ground on pump ? vapour locked, bad fuel.. when it happens open fuel lid let out hiss, try to start the car with the lid off fuel tank. E85 and E10 do this a lot , even more so at high altitude , not so much here low voltage/intermittent voltage from worn out ignition barrel , heavy key chains are death to cars, car has a tiny fuel leak that airlocks the pump