Carbon 34

new supra concept car info leaked http://bullfinchvisuals.wordpress.com/2011/09/25/toyota-supra-concept/#

its not the magnet, your wires are touching a high power/current wire or radio has ground loop. if it increases with revs it can be a few things. dirty connection on battery. bad wires on battery, bad alterantor, if amplified then add a few more things to check does it come from all speakers or just your back ones ? did you use factory wires or run new to deck/amp ? if so you most likely stuffed up existing wires

will work in just about anything that has doubledin or that much room. TV wont really work here, its analog. , plus needs proper antenna for it. digital tv works but need a expensive antenna to use on the move . for back seat of course or parked dont expect it to compare to alpine or someother name brands but some have better features then alpine built in? not saying they would ever compare to a name brand but for cheap they work. bluetooth mated to my iphone 4 no fuss havent tried with 4s yet noisy face motors, and slow but what do you want for so cheap. gps software is out of date or demo on most units. so make sure you get updated map with key and other things as pointed out above bose or not you can always wire into bose or around it

attach one wire to a bolt stuck in the dirt, the other to a bolt on the car, all grounded....lol joking is it the D1 kit off eblow ? depends on what kit you have and available wires. ? some have a lot, some have 2 ?

Yeah rockford has some decent stuff, sold it for a long time with minimal returns except for blatant abuse . rockford had some bad years but now watch out they new stuff is pretty damn nice what kind of spl did that setup pull ? how much power is it ? that controller looks like batman..lol def not a stealth system lol who installed it just curious ?

depends on what you want to do in the long run, the factory wire is fine for deck power ? saves you a bunch of work to change the speaker wires out for no reason . if you plan on going big then yes change them, but its not so easy to do the doors for first timers. and 10 ga isnt needed lol the radio power wires you dont change , not required . interface plugs are ok to use if you desire. and you might need a nissan diversity adapapter for the antenna, dont hack it !! depends on what the car has now ?

PM SENT but no response ????

if its a sub , it needs to be perfect sealed off , or it will blow out again I'd use 100% silicone, it drys and is flexible still some black RTV works as well.. if its not 100% it can rot , wont dry right, and most lilkely fall off. the real stuff smells like hell for a few days, so you might want the speaker left out for a few days to dry. or your car will stink. some subs and good fronts/tweeters you can buy recone kits for, check parts express in usa as one source of repair kits

the blue dots are the solder joints on the RCA, as you can see the black wire on this board, this amp fried and was returned for repair and I got it free from the distributor to cut the heat sink into wire cover end caps for my old amps. the black wire was soldered on by the repair center due to a burned trace its not there on yours . they have a few other jumper wires soldered on as well. it was a functional amp just repaired that I gutted if you need any parts off it hope that helps, if not I'll be parting with my amps cheap when I get off my butt to sell them. mine look differenent now. 3 custom matching ones,, 4 x 75w , 990 watts max each total, they ran 1.3 ohms all day long bridged and I have a unmolested 5 channel model, 1100 watts max I was saving for my garage but would sell cheap too.

oh come on pete, there worth street cred, and add a few extra kw at least ... note to self get pete drunk as a monkey and install said covers while past out

O ga on the alterantor can be a issue, the weight can break off the the bakelite around the bolt easy and the type of connection it has , small bolt compared to the big hole in 0 ga wire terminal and using washers is less then optimium , creates another spot to crust up /create resitance from metal compatability issues, gold plating/nickel plating to zinc or cadnium plating washers isnt a good idea. 4 ga is fine up to 120 amps max , nissan alternators are normally 80ish max amps on a good day. plus saves you a few bucks on parts and wire cost.

thanks god !!! someone else thinks facebook has some moral/biz issues among other huge ones. knowing how it all works you would understand better like jenna or myself end FB rant I was more concerned all the club info is shared in FB 100% not the website? .....it wasnt such a money thing about rejoining as it was a communication thing. I just enqiured about the admin fee's /one off for the first join up is all. but like elsewhere you get hit with them again if you have a gap in time. be good to catch up with some of you guys again and meet the newbies face to face. since this site in SA is dead most of the time lately I was beginning to wonder if it was all on FB or NS or ? I'll think about rejoining if I'm not black listed after telling pete he should buy the frangapani seat covers from george..lol and even if I speak american still after 10 years in oz I pretty much just now called a boot/bonnet and accelerator... instead of trunk, hood, gas pedal..haha I'll just blame abe since he lives straight down the road from me ....lol

its a mexican flee market..lol surely pete wants those frangapani seat covers ?

you dont have to run huge cable if your car has the battery in back, just beef up the cables off the engine block to frame ground.and 4 ga to main interface of car accessories from alternator mine has 2 x 0 ga run thru it... from the front...like two blue garden hoses haha

funny how you have a private website but use failbook as a main conduit to communicate, dont want to join failbook to be in the club ? CBF with it I contemplated rejoining but do I get hit with admin fees , or one off fees again ?

yep thought so unscrew the end bit that the rca is on, a few screws hold the rca, and speaker jacks to the steel bit. and a few hex heads hold the rest to the end of the heatsink, you will see the RCA solder joint , if you get a light and rock it gentle you will see the joint is cracked most likely and the pin /.solder moves. resolder any you think are broken , 1 pin is positive the other is ground on each RCA jack left and right. dont overheat the board when soldering but its pretty robust in that area . and the bigger the glob the better the job doesnt apply here..lol test the amp without the end cap just in case, works , fit end cap back on fails, test jiggle RCA while the end is off, just use care not to touch anything inside , still no go then test jiggle the 2-4 channel switch as well ? might be dirty and need contact cleaner while amp is off power let me know if you want a photo of the amp board , I have one out of the case completely since I cut/milled the case in 3 parts for spacers on the other amps to hide the wires

its a blue and silver us audio amp, they have solder joint issues on the main boards for the RCA'S , i have 4 of them sitting here and had to fix a few already. the amp is a good one besides that , cheap and powerful for the price the parts inside are actually a name brand design on the old ones they just went cheap on the solder joint.for the RCA they tended to crack , easy fix 2 min job once the cover is off think you confirmed it by using the 2-4channel switch, and ipod direct if you used a new cable for that ? its worth fixing , its a DYI job if you know how to solder and turn a screw , let me know if you get stuck I can open up my old amps to show you where to look if needed And I have a spare parts board off another 4 channel US Audio if you need parts 55watts x 4 model the other 3 are 75x 4 and a 5 channel model all going up for sale soon, mine are custom painted and have spacers to make them a meter long as one amp

dont overlook external crossovers , they can pick up noise as well most likely a broken solder joint on the RCA to board connection . that audioline isnt the best and most likely not braced inside on the RCA jacks is it a whine ? depending on rpm ? or just static ? hiss ? that can narrow it down faster? could be a stray stand of wire off the speaker or tensel lead on the speaker as well. touching ground ever so slightly but sounds like you checked that already. even dirty battery connections create noise

a 10 or 12 will shake the car to death , there isnt much difference in most cases. I prefer a 10" they hit faster and smoother in the right box but the market here prefers the 12" if done right you can hide a 10 easy in the boot with good sound , dont overlook thin models either.

I was kidding , chris is right you need the mounts. or make some out of MDF. they do make 7" speakers now that fit in the 6" mounts on some cars I know sounds wierd

O ga is mandatory , the others wont handle the current draw without melting over time. 2 farads cap, is only good for 2000watts , if your pulling 250amps max = roughly 3000 watts output ? which exceeds the capacitors abilitiy depending on what type of amps your running, class D, A/B limited /A/B no current limiting etc. depends on if the cap will handle the load or possibly burst the little hidden valve on the top eventually. your going to have to do a serious update of the cars grounds , to the engine block to frame, or when the bass hits the computer will malfuction as the voltage sags. not a good thing on any EFI car , worse with high power turbo and the ground in back had better be a large bolt, with paint stripped off around it, and washers and nylock nut on the backside if you find one going thru the sheet metal. do it right the first time and fuse it right to protect the car, 250 amps will burn right thru just about any metal it shorts out on. a dead short unfused to the battery could draw more then 2000 amps for a split second !!!! while the car goes up in flames. hint , put a thin couple mm thick rubber pad cut to fit under the battery to stop vibrations a bit, it helps the longevity of a battery, find at clark rubber, a few bucks . better then metal on plastic case and you will have to change all your battery clamps to quality ones for car audio, and after the first hour or so of driving, stop to tighten them again, most get loose after heated the first round and will twist around sounds like your going to be pushing pretty serious sounds at that power level.. my amps produce nearly 10 hp...lol if you convert KW to HP..lol I know the HP freaks cringe at that , in the quest for who has the most KW on the dyno... lol

you can buy cheap stuff and do it twice , or pay a little more now and be done with it any name brand sound deadener will work, dynamat has one just for rego plates. and some lightweight stuff as well have I heard it, hmmmm never ... yes.. over the 20+ years in car audio and some of my car has 3 layers in it ..lol nope never heard of how it sounds..lol you can listen to a little tiny iphone speaker in the console of my car at 100kph and I have a large bore non stock muffler setup , does that help you ? its not hard to install , just prep the area really good or it wont stick,and a roller helps a bunch.

is it school holidays already ? (POOTING is something called a LADY FART in USA) dynamat or a similar product on the underside , back of rego plate too. and most likely a lot of other spots too. turn the bass boost down to 0 on the amp and gains down to 3/4 tops turn down the bass on the deck as well can you hear the bass in the car or the rattles first ?

depends on the model, year..not enough info provided why bother just buy a cheapo CD , they cost less then 100 bucks on sale for a name brand ? and its new!!