dangerous_daveo

Normal gold class ticket? Which = how much $?

I've just decided, I dont like euro plates on any car. Burn them all.

What about the health implications! We are meant to be setting a good example!

You know, might be worth it. More so we can piss ourselfs laughing without annyoing a full cinema Whats the cost like?

An Alfa... Deary me.

I dont mean to be stupid but, what does everything think about the standard driving test? It used to be driving tester policy to fail young boys at least the first time to knock the confidence out of them. Regardless of how good a driver they were. Lets say 3 strikes. Hit the curb reverse parking. Not quite stopping at a stop sign (which is actually an instant fail) missing a shoulder check to your left while going round a left hand corner (god knows why), that sort of petty stuff. If you do it all, it doesnt mean you can drive a car, it means you know the road laws. There is a major difference. The testing is not up to scratch, neither is the training. Banning cars, and lower speed limits (eg NSW) for P platers is stupid too. I would rather have someone teaching someone how to do highway speed rather than one day they come up to QLD and BAM 110kmh. When the government pulls their finger out and realises bans and fines dont work, and training does they will start to seriously bring the road toll down. As Joel from SDT says on his site 'The more you know about driving, the slower you will go'. PS Im not having a whine, I am in the process of trying to do something about it.

What if its say, an Accord Euro? The question lingers there, should they be run off the road regardless, or do they get away with euro plates. (even tho I think the euro ones look less euro than the non euro)

Cause that will work...

Really dude you need to go thru the advice on here, as its all different and work out what you want. The new eclipse decks have the ipod stuff too. Honestly, the SQ of them is just insane. Speakers, hertz, mb quart, dynas, bostons, focal, alpine, etc etc. You really are going to have to listen. Is the bit that plays the sound, it is important. 98 maxima should have ok rears. Id just leave them. Amps I still say Jcar, everyone seems to think they are good value. SOUND DEADENING!!!! You MUST have this. The difference it makes is huge, you will be throwing money away on everything else if you dont do this.

Whats your budget? But I say eclipse or alpine head deck. Speakers god knows Amps the jcar ones seem to be pretty good clean power, quite a few guys use them with no problems. Also if your still in Brisbane dude, go to Northfield at Moorooka, and speak to Brian (or Drew, no on else) they wont muck you about. I was in there one day and Brian spent over an hour answering my questions about anything and everything car audio, when all I went there for was some sound deadening, and which was apparent all I really needed for my system.

Am I considered newbs or not? If not, yes your idea has merit, and is tops. If I am, I think its a silly idea.

Ok, I dont drift but this is my theory. A few of the guys up here have told me drift is about speed. And to have speed you need grip. So crappy tyres and stupidly stiff suspension does not give grip, it just stops roll. Two different things. Sooo what you need to do is get a good quality suspension set up (SK stuff is honestly amazingly better than jap coilovers) make the car grip well, so your confident with it, so its not all twitchy and stakty. Then what SK has suggested previously is just go for a stiffer rear anti sway bar setting to just help it kick out the rear. If you watch all the shows like topgear and fifth gear they all have these 'grippy' supercars with the arse end out. They dont have stupidly stiff anything. Its because they grip and are well set up and balanced cars. Pretty much if you arent confident in the car as you arent sure what its going to do next, you wont be any good. Grip gives confidence. Just my theory tho.

I was getting 500+kms to a tank before a chip, its now 550kms+ to a tank out of my rb20 cefiro on 12psi on an rb20 turbo. I think you have another issue that needs to be addressed to sort out your fuel economy. I cant see how a piggy back or chip can solve the problem straight off. So you sort whatever it is out first, then go from there.

You are kidding me they left her there? Thats worse than that bouncer one.

As I was saying, odd.

What I find funny, is that... "police stop chase just before girl crashes in to lake" Odd.

Are you planning on having people in the back of the car often? If not just dont worry about rear speakers. Maybe just get some 4inchs? They should be ok for rear fill, and you wont need to run as much power to get as nice of a sound (as they arent playing bass). Also cheaper, so you can either save money, or spend more on better speakers. The sub is for bass, so 6x9s are pointless if you are running a sub. Other than that should work. Might just need to adjust the rears until they dont distort.

Do an oil change too. Mine were a bit noisy, changed the oil, then fine.

Even though the truth has now been told. Personally, I would go for the emu over the truck. My ever so basic knowledge of pyhcis tells me, the truck has a f'load more inertia than the emu.

What you felt 250000kms on the ones you have now was good enough? Im so looking forward to this hey!

May I suggest your best bet for first round mods are... Suspension, brakes. Suspension get the Sydney kid bilstein kits. Bang for buck its awesome, dont throw your money away on coilovers, they are not worth it. Brakes just go get them checked. Braided lines, better pads and a good brake fluid is all you need, then just upgrade the rotors when they need doing. Then some decent tyres so it all works. Trust me you will get more enjoyment out of those mods than you will out of power mods. Especially with the way cops can be these days. If you do need to do power mods tho. Best to do smart mods. PFC good gains can save you petrol too. Pod, its only going to get gains if it can get cold air to it, so a box around the pod, and a bit of pipe to it will help. Split dump/front pipe, good gains. Boost, a bleed valve would be fine, just get a good quality simple only, no dual stage etc. Electronic is better if you can afford it, but up to you bang for buck I dont think its worth it. FMIC, if you are only running 10psi or something I PERSONALLY wouldnt spend the money, if you are going for 13-14psi I would. That is just me, you might want it for looks. That should net you some good gains, anything above that will start to cost serious money.

At that point, weather you have shoes on or not. Stop, bend over and start to tie your shoe laces. Then get up and say. 'Sorry, had to do that now, wouldnt want to fall over, you know what people are like with crossings these days!'

Ticking might also be from brake pad wear indicators (strange but it could be). Dude tyre noise is NOT a ticking noise. Its quite posible these tryes are actually quieter, and you are now hearing another noise that was previously masked. BTW, I run 38psi front, 36psi rear and have PERFECT tyre wear, took me 6months to work it out tho. I think it depends on the car and your driving style.

I wouldn't use them because if they forget to pick your products up it deleats the job from their system. So if its getting picked up from a 3rd party, you dont know it hasnt been picked up. So 3 days later your customer rings up screaming, and you then have to tell them TNT didnt pick it up, and you need to re-book. Their system is stupid. BTW, packing is a trick. You need bubble wrap, but you need things TIGHT and HARD. That and insurance helps. If its insured be sure it wont be broken, they dont want to fork money out.

Sorry Dan. It was me, I yelled out "you bogan, get a haircut" This was about 3seconds after my cefiro spontaniously exploded in to a skyline! HAHA Dude seriously calm down, have a relax for a bit. Dont stress, at all. It wastes time, your head, your life, your engery.