RubyRS4

From memory, I think the rear was a Pilot Road or Pilot Sport. I like PP on the road, but on track they're rubbish compared to Super Corsas when pushed hard. I've had the rear break out with the Pirellis and I can ride out the slide and control/feel what its doing. The PP let go without warning and theres no saving it. My preference has always been: PP for road SC for track/race

I did read his reply. 'Circumference' was mentioned, so too was 'profile' and 'tyre diameter' and 'wheel diameter'. A wheel is the rim and tyre. Thats my interpretation of it, as any normal person would. And for the record, I have a few Diplomas and 2 Degrees and a Masters also.

Don't go getting touchy. I only said I wanted to read things for myself ... do my own sussing out. A guy is entitled to find out for himself. Given that, and given you've been in the game for 35 years, surely you would have something in documented form (manual or tech article) that would cover the ATTESA? If you do, I wouldn't mind taking a look.

But 7 weeks!!! And who the hell intentionally crashes an MV Agusta??? But anyway, the circumstances of my crash was (no great story really): A friend of ours was doing a photo shoot for some personal pics, and my bike was being used. So I was riding it from location to location. We were nearing Port Adelaide and I was approaching a LH turn at a set of traffic lights. I had my GF in the car, so I'd been riding in a sensible manner all day (which I always do anyway). Anyhow I took the LH turn at about 45kph and the front washed out on me on some gravel. The bike went down and my shoulder was thrown at the gutter, breaking my collar bone. Then while sliding, the MV decided to run me over, and I'm crushed between the median strip and the bike, breaking my shoulder blade in two places (the gutter got 'under' the body armor), damaging muscles and internal bruising in the process. However if I'd gone over the median strip, I would have been run over by oncoming traffic. I had leg injuries from the bike on top of me and regardless of all the protective gear I wore, the bike sliding over the top of me wasn't helping. I was lucky at the scene, because my GF was a nurse and two other friends (Grim and Nene actually) help assist me thru my injuries. The ambos stabilised me and rushed me off to hospital. I was there for almost the week under observation and awaiting possible surgery. Throughout the whole ordeal I was conscious. It was one of those times I wished I was out cold. The pain was bad, real bad. I almost blacked out a few times from the pain alone. I have a high pain threshold, but 'damn' that was intense. Shits me I'd been riding 18 years, crashed at the race track many times including at over 180kph with not a scratch, yet it was gravel at about 45kph that almost killed me. Still, I love riding and will never stop. I only have momentary involuntary pauses sometimes. It was the front PP that gave on gravel Yeah wasn't happy with the mismatched tyres. Much prefer Pilot Powers both ends for the street and SC1 Corsas for the track. I had the bike booked in for new rubber for the Tuesday, only to have the crash the Saturday before.

Don't you mean the overall "circumference"? Not tyre diameter? (although diameter is in the calculation for the circumference) And don't you mean the overall wheel diameter? You say its not relevant but the wheel diameter is made up of the rim diameter and tyre profile. Overall wheel diameter = rim diameter + tyre profile Therefore wheel diameter together with rim diameter and tyre profile are relevant. Which, as you say, so long as the circumference is the same is the only thing that matters. So you can mix and match rim sizes and tyre profiles to obtain the same circumference. So rim diameter, tyre profile, and over wheel diameter does matter.

I like to see it for myself, either in documented form from a reliable source or seen in practice. I take what everyone says with a grian of salt, and then weigh it up against what I read about it. I'm having a few beers with some mates tonight (one of whom is an engineer) so it'll make for great conversation and debate tonight

But don't buy Pedders shocks. Get Monroe or somethin.

I agree, but if it goes away when its warm, then it may just be a compound issue. Everyone that I know of (inc myself) who's had this issue, the result has just been pad compound. In any case, best be safe than sorry. Check your pad thickness.

Its dependant upon the brand and compound of your brakes. Some brakes take time to warm up, so first thing they may sound grinding until they warm up. Most people who go and fit aftermarket 'race' style brakes are not aware of the warm-up time. Some performance brake pads and not suitable for street use. Sounds like your rear suspension may just need a lube. Worse case scenario is the hydraulics in the shock itself is worn. In which case, replacement is required.

Bobby, your thinking is along the lines of my thinking. I'm trying to dig up info on the attesa system to understand it a bit better. This has been a topic of discussion between my friends and I (all of us not shy to modifying cars/bikes over the years) to nut out and understand a bit more. You've also got to view it in a track sense. If you do laps at Mallala all day, what impact does that have on the system? And we're not just talking front to rear tyres, or left to right tyres, but the difference in distance from the front left and rear right during a right hand turn. I'm sure if the system is intelligent enough to deal with that all day on track, then it should handle different profile tyres (but not entirely difference circumferences). Everyone is speculating on how it works and how their cars have behaved in a given situation, but we want to find some documented discussion on the matter. If anyone has a link to a journal or tech article on this, it would be greatly appreciated. I find it interesting. Including everyone's view on the matter.

They tell you that 20% rule of thumb, just to sell more tyres Well better an experienced driver/racer on 20% worn Continentals or Bridgestones, than a P-plater hoon with race rubber. Cheap price does not mean cheap tyre.

I'm selling the track bike now, with tyre warmers, race stands, spare gearbox, fairings, levers etc. Ready to hit the track, ready to race. 2002 GSXR 600 $5000 for quick sale I broke my shoulder, so I'm out of this season's racing. Time to upgrade then. Buy mine and save your road bike

Item: Intercooler and piping kit for RB engines Age: New Condition: New Price: $400 ono (paid over $500 to put together) To Fit: (What car) Skylines, any RB turbo motor Location: Adelaide Contact: Ruby via PM or email [email protected] Comments: Includes pipes, hoses, clamps and 600x300x76 intercooler. New and unused. Bought but no longer required. Paid over $500. Sell $400 ono. Also, T3/T4 turbo with internal wastgate. New and unused. No longer wanted. I want a VG30BB turbo instead.

Intercooler kit for RB turbo engines Includes pipes, hoses, clamps and 600x300x76 intercooler. New and unused. Bought but no longer required. Paid over $500. Sell $400 ono. Contact me by PM or email [email protected] Also, T3/T4 turbo with internal wastgate. New and unused. No longer wanted. I want a VG30BB turbo instead. $350 ono

Hope you made it home safe mate. Sucks about the car, but you'll get it sorted.

SSssshhhhhh! Don't let Sled hear about this vigilante action. J/K Sled

Got a ballpark figure on them 'discount' kits?

Be funny if it bounced enough to smack the f**k in the nose

a real rocket scientist. Lets use something soft to break glass! Good to hear it was a failed attempt.

Its not AWD right at this moment

Ah okay. 'Bullletproof'. Wanna show me a pic then?

Oh man that sucks the big one! If its your driveshaft that blew, how recently was your gearbox fixed the first time? Try hitting up the mechanics for a repair. Was it bearing failure? Check the docket/invoice from you previous work to see what was involved. It might be covered. Sorry, the only assistance I can give seeing I'm in Adelaide and you're on the side of the M4. Added: can you get pics of the damage/break? Post 'em up

Yes ^^^ That too. Forgot to mention the stress on the turbo also. You must have a bulletproof turbo. Still, I'd rather retain the BOV.

Hmm, I might make an appearance. My Stag is ready to go after this weekend.

The BOV prevents the pressurised air between the throttle butterfly and the turbo outlet from blowing hoses or even bending your butterfly. It relieves the pressure when you shut off the throttle by releasing it thru the valve and back into the intake system before the turbo. (or into the atmosphere for those with aftermarket BOV) This is the rush of air I hear. Portion of the returning air coming from the pod filter, as that air is more dense than the turbo will suck in due to the shut throttle. So the short answer is: do not remove your BOV entirely and block off the mounting point for the BOV.